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  • #16
    Yea the kits have the measuring stick like Ron says which help you set the float etc. There's even videos on utube if you want to watch some of those first so you know what you're getting into.

    The only confusing part is the kits will usually cover several carb models so you have to sift through and find the correct gaskets. Pay attention because some will be similar but just slightly different. When done you'll have a lot of stuff left over.
    1951 B-3 Delux Cab, Braden Winch, 9.00 Power Kings
    1976 M880, power steering, 7.50x16's, flat bed, lots of rust & dents
    1992 W250 CTD, too many mods to list...
    2005 Jeep KJ CRD

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    • #17
      Got the carb kit today, Im nervous about doing this, I have never rebuilt a carb before. I will do it this weekend.

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      • #18
        Read the instructions twice or three times BEFORE taking anything apart. Get a nice clean level work surface and cover it with a clean cloth to retain any small parts from rolling around. Take the carb off the engine noting where everything hooks up. Take a picture if needed to jog the memory later. Clean the outside before you open it up. Carb cleaner of brake clean work well. Follow the directions and work through it. These are very simple carbs. Clean the inside well and begin reassembly. Reinstall the carb and start the engine. It won't fire until the bowl is full so give it a chance to fill. Once it's running adjust the idle screws as needed. You should tell a difference as soon as you step on the gas pedal that the stumble is gone. The old accelerator pump is no doubt the major problem due to old age and today's gas. Read the instructions first. Keep reading as you go. You'll do fine.

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        • #19
          Originally posted by Ron in Indiana View Post
          Read the instructions twice or three times BEFORE taking anything apart. Get a nice clean level work surface and cover it with a clean cloth to retain any small parts from rolling around. Take the carb off the engine noting where everything hooks up. Take a picture if needed to jog the memory later. Clean the outside before you open it up. Carb cleaner of brake clean work well. Follow the directions and work through it. These are very simple carbs. Clean the inside well and begin reassembly. Reinstall the carb and start the engine. It won't fire until the bowl is full so give it a chance to fill. Once it's running adjust the idle screws as needed. You should tell a difference as soon as you step on the gas pedal that the stumble is gone. The old accelerator pump is no doubt the major problem due to old age and today's gas. Read the instructions first. Keep reading as you go. You'll do fine.
          Thanks for the confidence boost, Im sure Ill do fine.

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          • #20
            For what it's worth there is a video on YouTube with a guy doing a Carter BB carb overhaul. I didn't watch it but may be of some help. Just type in rebuilding a two barrel carburator.

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            • #21
              Thats probably the videos I was talking about. They don't show it all but at least let you see what the guts looks like.

              Do you have an air compressor? You don't want to be poking all those little orafices with metal wires and stuff.
              1951 B-3 Delux Cab, Braden Winch, 9.00 Power Kings
              1976 M880, power steering, 7.50x16's, flat bed, lots of rust & dents
              1992 W250 CTD, too many mods to list...
              2005 Jeep KJ CRD

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              • #22
                I saw that video, it will help, thanks.

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                • #23
                  I had the same problem with my '79 W200. In addition to
                  replacing the worn accelerator pump, I pulled the intake
                  manifold and knocked about 5lbs of crud out of the heat
                  riser passages and the underside of the manifold. After
                  this, the truck would start and run at high idle as it should
                  and kick down to a 800rpm idle in minutes. I only used the
                  truck for plowing snow so it had to be "warm blooded" as
                  possible.
                  John

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                  • #24
                    Mine's dead slow to warm up. What was all that crud from I wonder?
                    1951 B-3 Delux Cab, Braden Winch, 9.00 Power Kings
                    1976 M880, power steering, 7.50x16's, flat bed, lots of rust & dents
                    1992 W250 CTD, too many mods to list...
                    2005 Jeep KJ CRD

                    Comment


                    • #25
                      I've seen this in the manifolds seems to be carbon build up. It will pack it tight and not allow the heat to cross over under the carb.

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                      • #26
                        Now im thinking I should take my intake off and clean, What do I clean it with? What is envolved with taking the intake off, the carb is going to be off so I may as well.

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                        • #27
                          Started taking carb apart today, had to stop, wife and I are going out to eat. It doesn't look to bad.

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                          • #28
                            Originally posted by 04 Diesel View Post
                            Now im thinking I should take my intake off and clean, What do I clean it with? What is envolved with taking the intake off, the carb is going to be off so I may as well.
                            Drain the radiator. Remove the intake bolts that hold it down to the heads. Pry the intake from the block. Cleaning the crossover is a job for a long screw driver. It'll be black with carbon build up just dig it out and be sure it's clear from one side to the other. Lay a couple shop rags in the valley to keep dirt and crap from getting in the cam. Scrape the mating surfaces with a putty knife or single edge razor blade. Clean with some Brake clean. Do the same with the intake. Place the gaskets on the heads. Use RTV black silicone on each end of the block. Forget about the sponge gaskets they just leak after awhile anyway. Don't get crazy with the silicone. Drop the intake and place the bolts. You should use a torque wrench and the tightening sequence to tighten the intake bolts. Usually starting in the middle and alternating back and forth to the ends. 30 ft lbs on the bolts. Good time to change oil after doing this job in case any water gets in the oil pan.

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                            • #29
                              Ok, the carb is rebuilt, that wasnt too bad. We will really see when I hook it up, need to set the floats and the pump then Im done. Then the intake is coming off.

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                              • #30
                                You should have set the float before you put the top on the carb unless it's a Holly four barrel. Those set the floats from the outside. Hope it runs better.

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