NP 203 issues

[1975powerwagon]

Hey guys I am back for some technical advice. My son and I have been working on a 1975 W200 club cab with a 440 auto and NP 203 transfer case. When we bought the truck and first got it home the output to the rear did not seam to be working, but in 4x4 the truck would drive. Took the t-case out found a replacement at a salvage yard put it in and the same scenario. We removed the rear drive shaft on both occasions and with the front one in we could drive the truck. Is it just bad luck and I come across 2 bad t-cases, or is something else going on. Also I would like to post some pics of our build does anyone know how I go about this?

[rxinhed]

The shift linkage is properly adjusted? Have you attempting to spin the rear pinion, just to make sure that is not broken? How is the differential in the t-case?

Lastly, since the 203 is a full time case, unless both drive shafts are mounted, you will have no luck driving unless the t-case is in 'loc' position. In the 'un-loc' position, the t-case differential is open....just like any hypoid differential.

[712edf]

What occurs in High/Low (not Loc)? Does the rear output not turn?
rxinhed might be correct, maybe you're in neutral, or not in any gear. Any grinding noises?
Lastly, are you certain your rear axle differential is ok?
Bucky

[1975powerwagon]

The rear dif is good for sure. The linkage we adjusted according to what I could find for the procedure. It was our first time adjusting one of these but it sounded pretty straight forward. Not sure about the differential in the T-case never had it apart. The original 203 that was in the truck when we had it in high and the rear on jack stands we would put it in gear and would be able to prevent the rear drive shaft from spinning just by holding on to it. That is when we took the rear drive shaft out put it in high loc and drove the truck around the yard.

If you guys have any words of wisdom on adjusting the linkages I am open to it. I would like to try that before I replace another transfercase.

Thank you for all the help guys.

[712edf]

With the truck NOT running, have someone shift the t-case back & forth while you are under the vehicle observing what's going on. Do this with all precautions as to prevent truck from rolling,etc.
Once you are satisfied that the shifting is ok, then you can look to the t-case.

When you mention being able to stop the rear driveshaft while truck was on jackstands, was front up on jackstands too? If so, then yes you can stop one shaft (front or rear), but the other MUST be allowed to turn.

Bucky

[1975powerwagon]

I re-adjusted the linkage according to a haynes manual and all we get is with the 4wd lever all the way back (hi-loc) we can move the truck but i really have to get on the gas and it does not move very fast. Like something is holding it back. Also currently the front driveshaft is out of it due to and 8 inch skyjacker lift being installed and I have to get a new shaft made due to the original one bind on itself because of the steeper angle.

Thank you for all the replies and input it is extremely helpful since we are new to all this.

Frank

[1975powerwagon]

1970 440hp

hey guys another small problem with my sons and my build. The motor is a 1970 440 hp that was rebuilt has about 10,000 miles on it. We removed the exhaust manifolds to install headers and we have antifreeze leaking from the exhaust manifold bolt holes. What is the best way to get the leaks stopped, and why did it not leak when the manifolds were on?
This father son project has been an experience thus far. Thank you for any input and all the advice in the past it has been helpful.

Frank

[QuantumJo]

currently the front driveshaft is out of it due to and 8 inch skyjacker lift being installed and I have to get a new shaft made due to the original one bind on itself because of the steeper angle...Frank

You may consider using a double cardan u joint and rotating your knuckles on the axel so you have a nice straight shot from the pinion to the T-case.

[1975powerwagon]

I didn't realize we could rotate the knuckles and im not sure how to go about that and what is a double cardan u-joint. my son and I are fairly new to this sorry for the ignorance.

do you just remove the knuckle assembly and rotate it one bolt hole or what?

[QuantumJo]

The knuckles are welded to the axel tube. The weld either has to be cut off or ground off, or the knuckle can be cut off the tube. In either case, with the right tools and knowledge it is a fairly straight forward operation. If it is beyond your skill level find a shop that can do the work for you. Another benefit to rotating the knuckles is retaining proper front end geometry (caster, camber & tow) that gets all out of whack with big lifts.

A double cardan u joint looks like this.
http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forum...double-cardan/
It helps out potential binding in the drive shaft.

[712edf]

hey guys another small problem with my sons and my build. The motor is a 1970 440 hp that was rebuilt has about 10,000 miles on it. We removed the exhaust manifolds to install headers and we have antifreeze leaking from the exhaust manifold bolt holes. What is the best way to get the leaks stopped, and why did it not leak when the manifolds were on?
This father son project has been an experience thus far. Thank you for any input and all the advice in the past it has been helpful.

Frank

The outermost bolt holes go into water jackets, possibly others do too. When you had factory manifolds I assume you had the original studs in the heads, those almost never leak unless disturbed.
There is a strong & growing camp who feel that headers (and all they headaches they possess) aren't worth the hassle on a street driven vehicle.
Anyways I believe they make a product to put on the threads of header bolts to prevent antifreeze leakage. I think the coolant needs to be drained from the block first, so the holes are dry, before the coated bolts are installed.
Bucky