1978 W150 "Southbounder" - new purchase barn find

[KRB64]

Our radiator shop cleans gas tanks, at least metal ones anyway. I'd be sure and get it out one way or another. The new gas or ethanol will find a way to include that stuff in the mix eventually.

When you said fuel pump you meant fuel level sender right? The pump is on the motor not in the tank.

[712edf]

I have had the pleasure of removing/replacing a tank on 79 W200 club cab. Yes getting to the bolts/nuts was a boogerbear.

The radiator shop should be able to help you. If not, I have seen people try everything from MEK to Easy-Off oven cleaner.

Bucky

[KRB64]

I've never had the tank off, just replaced senders, are there baffles in there?

[78w150Southbound]

Our radiator shop cleans gas tanks, at least metal ones anyway. I'd be sure and get it out one way or another. The new gas or ethanol will find a way to include that stuff in the mix eventually.

When you said fuel pump you meant fuel level sender right? The pump is on the motor not in the tank.

I suppose that I did mean fuel level sender. I didn't realize that the fuel pump sucked it all the way from the tank to the engine. That's impressive suction head! Is "fuel level sender" what I need to look up when I go to replace it at the autoparts store? I just don't want to leave that corroded component on there after going through all the trouble to drop the tank.

I have had the pleasure of removing/replacing a tank on 79 W200 club cab. Yes getting to the bolts/nuts was a boogerbear.

The radiator shop should be able to help you. If not, I have seen people try everything from MEK to Easy-Off oven cleaner.

Bucky

The first radiator shop I called this morning said the can do it and quoted me at $100, but said they would match a better price. I'll be calling around more today and see what I can get.

I've never had the tank off, just replaced senders, are there baffles in there?

It didn't seem like there are baffles in there as I was swishing the soapy hot water around.

[KRB64]

When I redid my sender a couple years ago I couldn't find a new aftermarket replacement. I had to get a NOS off ebag.

[Ron in Indiana]

I've used a company in Akron Ohio that reconditions sending units to like new if you can't find a new unit. I cleaned out a plastic tank from a 75 Dodge once that had the same goo inside. I turned it upside down for a day in the heat to let it ooze out the opening. Followed that up with laquer thinner. Just protect that tank they are hard to find.

[78w150Southbound]

When I redid my sender a couple years ago I couldn't find a new aftermarket replacement. I had to get a NOS off ebag.

I've used a company in Akron Ohio that reconditions sending units to like new if you can't find a new unit. I cleaned out a plastic tank from a 75 Dodge once that had the same goo inside. I turned it upside down for a day in the heat to let it ooze out the opening. Followed that up with laquer thinner. Just protect that tank they are hard to find.

Yeah - I think I'm just not going to worry about the sending unit. I'll try to test it if he screws will come out easily, otherwise I'm just going to assume it works. Even if it deosn't, it's not very important to me.

I definitely want to replace the filler though (is "filler" the right word - I'm talking about the inlet to the tank.) As you can see from the pictures it's in bad shape. Any suggestions on finding a replacement?

[78w150Southbound]

Another question:

Is it true that this steering shaft only fits back to 79?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Genuine-...4a4356&vxp=mtr

Seems that if it works for 79. it should also work for 78 based on what I've learned... Any thoughts?

[712edf]

Dodge flopped those steering shafts around some. Seems like rag joint was at top of certain models, then at the bottom on other years, or at least that's what my feeble memory says.

Testing the fuel gauge is easy. I can walk you through it when your ready, even before you get the tank back in.

Bucky

[78w150Southbound]

Dodge flopped those steering shafts around some. Seems like rag joint was at top of certain models, then at the bottom on other years, or at least that's what my feeble memory says.

Testing the fuel gauge is easy. I can walk you through it when your ready, even before you get the tank back in.

Bucky

I'll put the steering question on the back burner for now... it's not imperative at the moment.

Please proceed with your advice on testing the fuel sending unit!

Really appreciating all of the help here, friends.

[712edf]

To test the gauge: There is a wire that comes from the instrument panel, through the firewall & goes back to the tank. It connects to the sending unit on top of the tank. If it is hooked up the sending unit, unhook it, then connect it to a good ground. Then turn the ignition key/switch to ON. The gauge should immediately go to FULL. If it does turn the key off quickly, the gauge is fine. If the needle doesn't move when that wire is grounded (key On), then either there is an open circuit, bad gauge, or bad instrument panel regulator.

To test sending unit: You will need an Ohmmeter. I believe there are two terminals on the sending unit. One is where the above mentioned wire goes, the other generally has a wire connected to ground (vehicle frame/crossmember). Connect one lead from the meter to one of the terminals, the other lead to the other terminal. Then move the float up/down to see what readings you get. Should be around 73 Ohms when the float is down (Empty) & 8-12 when float is up (Full).

Bucky

[78w150Southbound]

To test the gauge: There is a wire that comes from the instrument panel, through the firewall & goes back to the tank. It connects to the sending unit on top of the tank. If it is hooked up the sending unit, unhook it, then connect it to a good ground. Then turn the ignition key/switch to ON. The gauge should immediately go to FULL. If it does turn the key off quickly, the gauge is fine. If the needle doesn't move when that wire is grounded (key On), then either there is an open circuit, bad gauge, or bad instrument panel regulator.

To test sending unit: You will need an Ohmmeter. I believe there are two terminals on the sending unit. One is where the above mentioned wire goes, the other generally has a wire connected to ground (vehicle frame/crossmember). Connect one lead from the meter to one of the terminals, the other lead to the other terminal. Then move the float up/down to see what readings you get. Should be around 73 Ohms when the float is down (Empty) & 8-12 when float is up (Full).

Bucky

Thanks Bucky! I've been busy and haven't done much... I will test the sending unit and gauge next.

I noticed that the float in the sending unit has holes rusted in it. I imagine this is something that happens often... any recommended easy fixes? I was thinking of of squirting Great Stuff foam insulation into it and then JB-welding over the rest spots to seal it up. There is the concern of Great Stuff dissolving into my gas though... Any thoughts?

[Ron in Indiana]

I wouldn't put Great Stuff in gasoline no matter how well you think it's sealed. I deal with a company that rebuilds sending units. S U R & R Auto 1969 S Main St Akron OH 44301 2873 Phone # 330 745 3300 It's usually $149 to rebuild any unit. Yes that's a lot of money but they are as good or better than new when you get yours back. They MIGHT sell you a float if your unit checks out talk to Andy there.

[78w150Southbound]

Been busy as **** with work and school, so the nothing has happened...

I did try out acetone in the gas tank and it cleaned it right up. I' just need to do a few more small amounts, slosh it around, and pump it out until I'm convinced that it's fully clean.

I wouldn't put Great Stuff in gasoline no matter how well you think it's sealed. I deal with a company that rebuilds sending units. S U R & R Auto 1969 S Main St Akron OH 44301 2873 Phone # 330 745 3300 It's usually $149 to rebuild any unit. Yes that's a lot of money but they are as good or better than new when you get yours back. They MIGHT sell you a float if your unit checks out talk to Andy there.

You make a good point, Ron. I'll call Andy and see what he says. I've still got to test the unit though... Will do as soon as I can and report back.

Found a NOS replacement and a used one from 81-87 that I might use if the one I have is busted:
http://www.mopartruckparts.com/group-14.html

[78w150Southbound]

Well, the truck has been on hold for months now... just bought a new house.

I did clean the tank though - acetone worked great! Just ordered a NOS sending unit from ebay, we'll see how it works out.

I have been cranking the truck up periodically and I drove it a couple miles (with a small gas tank under the hood) to my new place. It shifted into all gears, so that was good!

Next step is to install the new sending unit, reinstall the tank, and run new fuel lines. After that, my plan is to change transmission fluid, lube the rear differentials + hubs, and replace the water pump. Hopefully the water new water pump and gasket will seal my coolant leak. Plan on getting started on all of this soon...

Any advice or suggestions on what else I should look into is appreciated!
Happy 4th, y'all :)