Tranny R&R questions

[KRB64]

The 727 in my M880 is toast. I have a spare I plan to swap.

In the planning process now and have a couple questions:

1. Is it easier to drop the 727 with or without the transfer case?

2. About how much does the desired configuration weigh?

3. How do most folks hold the rear of the motor up once the trans is out?

I have shop manuals but you know how they are. My shop floor is dirt and I don't have the room to get both trucks in at the same time so I'm trying to plan my line of attack ahead of time.

Thanks,

[712edf]

The 727 alone is in the 140lb range, but the NP203 itself weighs a chunk more. Together its almost like removing an engine from underneath the truck. What equipment you have determines your attack to a degree.

I have lowered a tranny by having a hoist sticking through the door (transmission hump removed), but I didn't have any carpet or seats to deal with at the time.

Option (A) to hold engine in place is to have a cherry picker & chain support it from above, same is if you were going to remove it, only attached to the rear portion. And overhead hoist would work as well if the hood is removed.

Option (B) is to use a bottle jack & section of 2x12 board under the oil pan. NOTE: This is NOT the best way, likely will damage the pan or pick-up tube inside...but having said that, in a pickle I have done it this way myself.

Dirt floors are actually better on your back/feet than concrete.....but a bear for lifting purposes as well as cleanliness of work area. Cardboard is your friend.

I will add more later, but my better half is waiting on me to drive us to dinner :-)

Bucky

[KRB64]

I have bottle jacks and floor jacks. Also have a tractor with front end loader. And the shop is a converted tobacco barn so I can attach a come-a-long to a rail above too. And yes plenty of cardboard and some plywood for the floor jacks.

My dilemma is further compounded by the fact that the donor truck also has the cab I'm swapping too. In an ideal world I'd pull the cabs, swap the trannys and then install the "new" cab. BUT it is November and I need to haul wood already and have no time to swap the cab let alone strip, prep and paint it.

So I'm taking what should be a logical, practical refurbish and breaking it into multiple time consuming steps.

Such is life, I know what I NEED to do, just never have the time or money or foresight...

[712edf]

Another option to suspend the rear of the motor is to run a very heavy duty ratchet strap under it & have each end hooked to the frame. A benefit of this method is it allows the truck to be rolled back/forth. Hoists/jacks don't.

Lack of time/money/space/energy is common here too.

Bucky

[KRB64]

Hate to see the forum slumbering...

I'm getting closer to swapping trannys. Will replace the bushings while I'm at it. I'll just get them from NAPA unless anyone has a better source? I get a discount there.

Anything else I should do while it is out? Including xfer case.

Cheers,

[712edf]

While you have the driveshafts out check the u-joints condition....and the chain in the t-case, they stretch.

Bucky

[DrPepper]

Seals...!!!

While it's out and available, change out the front(?) and rear transmission seal and front TC seal. Easy to do when out ... royal PITA a month after the swap.

Not sure I agree with cardboard over dirt to drop a trans/TC. That much weight is dangerous and will shift on you. Not sure how big the cover is inside the cab but consider removing it and using the cherry picker to drop the unit.
Best of luck
DrPepper

[The Other Ross]

The bolts that bolt the transfer case to the frame crossmember. They stretch over time. The transfer case will then "clock" around the drivetrain causing an annoying CLUNK.

[Chewie]

Hmm.
I have an annoying clunk going on at start and stop. It's a big one, too. I haven't tried to figure it out, but I will look at that for sure..

[The Other Ross]

Hmm.
I have an annoying clunk going on at start and stop. It's a big one, too. I haven't tried to figure it out, but I will look at that for sure..

This is on a divorced 205. That bracket that bolts to the top and then to the Xmember. The two bolts through the bracket that the transfer case hangs on.
Gravity sucks.

[KRB64]

Well for some reason I just now got a notification from my last response, back in April, oh well.

Thanks for the suggestions. Hadn't even thought of the seals. Don't know why, maybe cause I never had one start leaking - yet. But the tranny has been sitting for a while so it's likely dried out, good call.

Worked on several geared xfers but never had a 203 open, I assume the manual covers the chain slop. I'll check my Chiltons and Haynes.

Good idea on the u-joints too since they will already be out and easy.

The donor W200 is/was an M880 that went to a volunteer fire department. All the Power Wagons I've had of this era went from the local National Guard to a state agency or fire department and have had low miles and little abuse. But I've also had some that had 90w in the case instead of 10w30 so they were exposed to a bit of ignorance instead.

I need to get back on this as soon as hay season is over. It will be a year this summer and I miss this truck and hated having to use my CTD for wood duty.

As soon as time allows I'll drain the tranny to reduce weight and check the fluid condition to make sure I want to use this one.

[rxinhed]

Slumbering forums, yep. Life at a trickle.

[KRB64]

Anybody have a good source for the tranny shifter seal? No luck finding it in RockAuto or Summit. Same for the transmission mount bushings. Seems like there is a rubber plug that some wires run through too?

Will try the local NAPA next.

Thanks,

[KRB64]

Nevermind, finally found them...

[The Other Ross]

Trannie mount bushing is the same as just about every other Mopar. You can get it in polyurethane.