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  • The difference in my 203 when you put the right oil in there is truly amazing! And I've got the zirks greased.
    Last edited by Gordon Maney; 12-03-2008, 05:35 AM.

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    • Sounds great, Rod, good luck with it! :)

      JS

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      • 203 swap

        How difficult is it to swap the t-case in an '81 part time with a 203 full time?

        Lee

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        • Get the right t-case adapter for the 203 (piece goes between trans and t-case), different part for manual or auto trans. Front and rear driveshafts for 203 truck, shifter for 203, bolt in job with all the right parts.

          81 has lockouts or auto hubs? 203 needs fulltime hubs, or at least the front to be engaged fulltime...you can engage lockouts and leave 'em, or remove and install Chevy style fulltime hubs...

          Good luck!

          JS

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          • Thanks for the information, JS. You know what's coming next. Where would one find the parts you mentioned, viz. the adaptor for a manual transmission and the shifter? Also, is it possible to put a fuel injected 360 in a non-fuel injected chassis. Please say it's easy, it's done all the time, a new wiring harness is not required and a fuel pump doesn't have to be put in the gas tank or something to that effect.

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            • You can get a stand alone EFI harness from several aftermarket suppliers, do some online shopping and see what you come up with.

              Next, you don't need an in-tank pump, but you need to mount an electric pump somewhere on the frame near the tank. Electric pumps work better for pushing rather than pulling, you see.

              A salvage yard likely has the t-case adapter for a manual transmission, and the t-case shifter. Also a good source for used driveshafts, although you can get rebuilt driveshafts with new "super strength" u-joints installed at NAPA very reasonably.

              The most costly part of the whole thing will be the stand alone computer and harness, but it shouldn't be too bad. Mopar Performance used to have 'em, too, I don't know if they still offer them for 360s or not, but it's worth checking.

              Good luck!

              JS

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              • Thanks again. One more variation on the theme. The mid to late 70's saw Dodge trucks with 440 engines. Then they disappeared in the 80's (it seems to me as the 360 small-block engine became the biggest gas engine available) but the frames were basically the same (the garage I use says that there were only two frame #'s from '72 to '93.) So can one put a 440 (or any B or RB block) in an 80's frame? Probably the mounts are quite different and would require some custom welding, etc. The 440 would be mated to an automatic and the tranny crossmember would have to be modified, also? Stranger things have probably been done but we're way beyond a "bolt-in" scenario?

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                • After 1978 the 440 could not pass smog and was down to an anemic 125 HP in CA. It died an unmerciful death.
                  The frames are the same, you'll just need 440 motor mounts. I've seen them on the web before, some are the liquid filled vibration proof design, pricey but a good idea.

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                  • Big blocks in '70s trucks were factory, as said

                    Big blocks in '72-93 trucks are bolt-in, no big whoop

                    Need: BB truck motor mount brackets (2wd or 4wd, they are different), still available new from Mopar as well as several aftermarket suppliers.

                    BB truck oil pan, rear sump, and dipstick, which goes into the side of the oil pan on a truck, not thru the block like a car

                    BB truck exhaust manifolds or headers...Truck manifolds are Center Dump, not rear dump like cars...

                    BB trucks use the small diameter brake booster also, required for clearance to remove valve cover on 440 engine.

                    Otherwise, the transmission and t-case or driveshaft(s) bolt in the same, basically a bolt in deal, so long as you have the above items and a BB transmission.

                    JS

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                    • OK, since I just replaced by brake booster, how big is the 'small' one? There's precious little clearance to remove the valve cover.

                      Good thing my 440 is in AZ. Currently, passes our emissions with no sweat. Don't know how many hp I'm making but it will definitely be fun to make more.

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                      • The large diameter is the most common, found on most small block 1/2 tons and such...it's almost flat, like a pancake, and uses a 4 bolt master cylinder.

                        The small diameter shows up on BB trucks and some HD 3/4 and 1 tons, it uses a 2 bolt master cylinder and is thicker, more rounded, more plump, like Santa Claus..:)

                        JS

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                        • Sweptline Era Trucks have the same problem with the hydraulic clutch/brake and 383 clearance.
                          Here is a comparison:

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                          • 70s brake boosters

                            Pics of '70s style brake boosters, 2 bolt is HD, for Big Blocks and some HD 3/4 ton and 1 ton trucks

                            4 bolt is standard small block 1/2 ton booster

                            JS
                            Attached Files

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                            • In Sweptlines, the number of bolts, 2 vs. 4, has more to do with the year than the motor size. Just so we don't cause any confusion.....= )

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                              • OK, thanks guys! I've got a two-bolt master so I've obviously got the right one.

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