Which is better, Part time or Full time?

[powerwagon88]

lol i guess il wait for norm explanation then reply

[JimmieD]

He'll be along shortly... :~ )

[MoparNorm]

Ha!
I was at the In-laws, BBQ'n filets....= )

It's a 4.2, with a 4.0 fuel injection, hi flow heads, roller rockers, SBC valves, bored .060 over, melling oil pump 800-4800 rpm cam, double roller timing chain, and a few other items that I've forgotten....= )

[MoparNorm]

Borla Headers, Mopar Performance Ignition, etc. Aluminum cross flow radiator and electric fan, on board air and ARB's.

[JimmieD]

Just your regular basic Jeep, you know......

[powerwagon88]

nice very nice lol have you had it on a dyno? so whats with the adapter between the bellhousing and the tranny?
my dad has a 77cj-5 4.2 4spd id like to put a 4.0 into and partialy restore " think thats how to spell it lol"

and my dad wants to put a 327 into this one has a 4cly in it lol had to steal the wheel and tire for the ramcharger

this is my turd

[MoparNorm]

The adapter is so I can use my mechanical clutch with the NV3550.
I had a T-5 trans, the bell housing is from a T-176 which was a closer match to the NV3550, but still required the adapter. I did not want to use a NV3550 bell, they have a hydraulic clutch with the slave cylinder inside the bell, too much hassle and another project to change out all of the clutch linkage, pedal and add a clutch fluid reservoir.





Nice TJ, you need some rock sliders....= )

[JimmieD]

Is that NV3550 slave similar to the Dodge Ram CTD NV4500 slave? Could the slave be attached directly to tranny case using a stock Dodge early hydraulic slave, like I did on my NV4500?

Of course the 4500 is a cast iron case, more meat there. Maybe sort of thin on an aluminum 3550? Just wondering....

[MoparNorm]

Not an issue at all, they make a kit to place the slave on the outside of the NV3550. If the vehicle has a hydraulic clutch already that works great, but I had a mechanical clutch and didn't want to cut up and jury rig any more parts.

If I break down in Nowhere, Nevada, or Upacreek, Utah, I want to be able to get a stock part for repairs. Everything I have, except for the two adapter plates is a stock off the shelf part.

[JimmieD]

Not an issue at all, they make a kit to place the slave on the outside of the NV3550. If the vehicle has a hydraulic clutch already that works great, but I had a mechanical clutch and didn't want to cut up and jury rig any more parts.

If I break down in Nowhere, Nevada, or Upacreek, Utah, I want to be able to get a stock part for repairs. Everything I have, except for the two adapter plates is a stock off the shelf part.

Oh, I misunderstood. Thought you were already hydro. I'd say mine ends up as a good Upacreek, Utah rig [nice country around there 'til the creek went dry] as it's a stock Dodge slave and the home made pushrod can go on the next one.

Nowhere, Nevada, is that just east of Laughlin? Over by Cantgetherefromere?

[powerwagon88]

sliders are on the list axles gear and lockers come first, coil braketry, detroit in the 9inch, 427-456 gears 44 ox locker 427-456 gear. might go with the 427 so i can use the 31's still for a while their still pretty new!

[MoparNorm]

sliders are on the list axles gear and lockers come first, coil braketry, detroit in the 9inch, 427-456 gears 44 ox locker 427-456 gear. might go with the 427 so i can use the 31's still for a while their still pretty new!

Once you change gears, which may require a carrier change, and install a locker, you'll be sad and pouring more money away when you change to the 4.56's. I'd go to 456's right off the get go and rely upon your overdrive more. The 9" is really not that much stronger than the Rubicon Dana 44 that is being sold complete for under $1400 at Mopar...and it comes with a selectable locker!!! The matching front Dana 44 is just a tad over $1400, also with a selectable locker, discs front and rear and a really nice system that can't be beat unless you are considering competition.
I went too high when I installed 4.10's even though they were a big improvement over the stock 3.07's, once I installed the 35's I was too high and couldn't use overdrive. I didn't plan it out well enough (and the parts available in the aftermarket were scarce back then) and was stuck with a carrier that would not let me go lower with my ARB's. The ARB's were too expensive to discard (and they work too well to swap out!!!) Now I have the 4 to 1 transfer case and that gives me the best of both worlds, high street gears and low trail gears.
I'd choose an ARB front and rear over a Detroit, far superior, let's YOU decide when to engage and they work perfectly, just need to save longer....= )
Plan it all out with tires, gears, trans and axles and consider what you want to use it for....= )

[JimmieD]

Couldn't agree more with the advice on gears!

You can take a nothin' rig and stuff in the right gears and have a real winner. But you can also take a rig that's built to the hilt and stick in the wrong gears and have a real pig regardless of all the trick parts.

If you look at it you see that the engine relies on its 'gear ratio'. The piston sits on the end of a lever arrangement in order to change the effect of an explosion into being translated to power at the crankshaft. Change to a longer lever, as in a stroked crank, and you've got more bottom end torque. Change to a shorter lever and now you've lost torque but maybe gained horsepower.


The axle & transmission ratios just translate the engine ratios so the fundamentals of the entire drivetrain are all about ratios. Get the ratios right and you're closer to whatever goal you're after with a vehicle.


.

[powerwagon88]

yea ive thought about the mopar axles but id still have to buy the bracket kit so ive read cause the jk brackets they come with are different. also i want to get rid of the chain driven 231. and i happen to have a dana 300 lieing around, so i can go with the passenger side drop to save more money and not buying the dana 300 flip kit, and one last thing i can get rid of the factory jeep dana 30 and rubicon 44 hub/wheel bearing assembly with going with a 70's to 84 dodge 44 with lockouts and the in my opinon cheaper and better wheel bearings. i added it up once gears, front axle, had the rear, lockers and brackets it would be less than the mopar factory axles. and using the 9inch and dodge 44 there both 5 on 5 1/2 lug pat thats somthing that was also important.

also thought about wagoner 44 front and rear but i think the rear is c-clip design and somthing i want to get away from. then i thought about 12bolt out of a gm but there c-clip you can get the eliminator kit for the axle shafts but then id have to use a gm 44 or 10 bolt front that seemed to be kinda more pricey so i desided the 9inch and dodge 44.
and ARBs id hate to snag an air line and they cost to much and the ox is selectable and sounds good for the front and a detroit softlocker in the rear. also now that were talking gears. if i stay with a manual 427,456 or if i go with a 700r4 might just go 488 since the auto gears i hear are suposed lower cause the auto has a higher low range.

[MoparNorm]

I've had my ARB's for over 20 years, haven't snagged an air line yet and that's with the nylon tubes, the newer braided stainless lines are bulletproof, routing, routing, routing.
For $3,000 for the Mopar, Rubicon 44's including gears, lockers and disc brakes, I can't see a 9", added lockers and gears being cheaper, more likely a push at best and you still have an eclectic collection of parts when with the Rubicon axles you get a group of matched components that are new and bolt right in.
The one big issue is the cost of a flipped Dana 300, that does make the deal a more expensive undertaking, remember what Jeep stands for, Just Empty Every Pocket....= )
The auto trans will give you a small amount of tolerance for lower gears.