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1987 to 2001 Code list

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  • 1987 to 2001 Code list

    The 1980s-1990s Chrysler vehicals .

    Start with the ignition off. Within five seconds, switch the key on, off, on, off, on. (On is *not* start!)
    The "check engine" light will flash. Count the flashes Each code is a two digit code, so a (for example) 23 would be FLASH FLASH (pause) FLASH FLASH FLASH (loong pause)
    It will never flash more than 9 times, watch for pauses!
    55 is end of codes - it's normal. Before you call your dealer or mechanic, consider that the blink-spacing is not always perfectly uniform, so if you see 23 23, it's probably just a single 55. (Codes are not repeated.)
    33 is normal on earlier models if you don't have air conditioning.
    John McGuire wrote: "The older Vipers will blink out diag codes with four off/on key turns. They removed the capability starting in... I think 2000, at any rate I know my 2001 requires a computer to check the codes."
    On some models (such as a 1995 Neon), when the check engine light goes on, you may be able to get the codes simply by putting in the key and moving it to the RUN position; the light will blink out the codes by itself.
    Please note that some codes are NOT included below, this is not a complete listing, but it IS very close to complete. It stemps from a list posted on the Mopar Mailing List, but many modifications have been made.
    * Activates Power Limited/Check Engine light on some models.
    IMPORTANT. Codes may be different for newer vehicles starting in the late 1990s. See the earlier section.

    11 No ignition reference signal detected during cranking (bad Hall effect) OR timing belt skipped one or more teeth; OR loss of either camshaft or crankshaft position sensor. Can cause the engine to stop working entirely with no limp-home mode.
    12 Battery or computer recently disconnected
    13* MAP sensor or vacuum line may not be working
    14* MAP sensor voltage below .16V or over 4.96V
    15 No speed/distance sensor signal
    16* Loss of battery voltage detected with engine running
    17 Engine stays cool too long (bad thermostat or coolant sensor?)
    17 (1985 turbo only): knock sensor circuit


    21 Oxygen sensor signal doesn't change (stays at 4.3-4.5V). Probably bad oxygen sensor
    22* Coolant sensor signal out of range - May have been disconnected to set timing
    23* Incoming air temperature sensor may be bad
    24* Throttle position sensor over 4.96V (SEE NOTE #3)
    25 Automatic Idle Speed (AIS) motor driver circuit shorted or target idle not reached, vacuum leak found
    26 Peak injector circuit voltage has not been reached (need to check computer signals, voltage reg, injectors) (SEE NOTE #4 BELOW)
    27 Injector circuit isn't switching when it's told to (TBI)
    OR (MPI) injector circuit #1 not switching right
    OR (turbo) injector circuit #2 not switching right
    OR (all 1990-) injector output driver not responding
    - check computer, connections


    31 Bad evaporator purge solenoid circuit or driver
    32 (1984 only) power loss/limited lamp or circuit
    32 EGR gases not working (1988) - check vacuum, valve
    32 (1990-92, all but Turbo) computer didn't see change in air/'fuel ratio when EGR activated - check valve, vacuum lines, and EGR electrical
    33 Air conditioning clutch relay circuit open or shorted (may be in the wide-open-throttle cutoff circuit)
    34 (1984-86) EGR solenoid circuit shorted or open
    34 (1987-1991) speed control shorted or open
    35 Cooling fan relay circuit open or shorted
    35 (trucks) idle switch motor fault - check connections
    36 (turbo) Wastegate control circuit open or shorted
    36 (3.9/5.2 RWD) solenoid coil circuit (air switching)
    36 (Turbo IV) #3 Vent Solenoid open/short
    37 Shift indicator light failure, 5-speed
    part throttle lock/unlock solenoid driver circuit (87-89)
    solenoid coil circuit (85-89 Turbo I-IV)
    Trans temperature sensor voltage low (1995 and on; see NOTE 2)


    41* Alternator field control circuit open or shorted
    42 Automatic shutdown relay circuit open or shorted
    42 Fuel pump relay control circuit
    42 Fuel level unit - no change over miles
    42 Z1 voltage missing when autoshutdown circuit energized (SEE NOTE #6)
    43 Peak primary coil current not achieved with max dwell time
    43 Cylinder misfire
    43 Problem in power module to logic module interface
    44 No FJ2 voltage present at logic board
    44 Logic module self-diagnostics indicate problem
    44 Battery temperature out of range (see Note #1!)
    45 Turbo boost limit exceeded (engine was shut down by logic module)
    46* Battery voltage too high during charging or charging system voltage too low
    47 Battery voltage too low and alternator output too low


    51 Oxygen sensor stuck at lean position (Bob Lincoln wrote: may be tripped by a bad MAP sensor system causing a rich condition, and the O2 sensor trying to compensate. The O2 sensor may still be good. The MAP assembly consists of two pieces, the valve and the vacuum transducer (round plastic unit with cylinder on top and both electrical and vacuum connections) - If you get hot rough idle and stalling, especially on deceleration, accompanied by flooded engine and difficulty restarting, that can be a bad MAP sensor causing the O2 sensor to try to compensate. If you get poor cold driveability, stumbling and bucking, and acceptable warm driving with poor gas mileage (a drop of 10 mpg or more), that is usually the O2 sensor. [Webmaster note: MAP sensors seem to die regularly.]

    51 Internal logic module fault ('84 turbo only).
    52 Oxygen sensor stuck at rich position (SEE NOTE #5!)
    52 Internal logic module fault ('84 turbo only)
    53 Logic module internal problem
    54 No sync pickup signal during engine rotation (turbo only)
    54 Internal logic module fault ('84 turbo only) - or camshaft sensor/distributor timing (7)
    55 End of codes


    61 "Baro" sensor open or shorted
    62 EMR mileage cannot be stored in EEPROM
    62 PCM failure SRI mile not stored
    63 Controller cannot write to EEPROM
    64 Catalytic converter efficiency failure
    65 Power steering switch failure


    88 Start of test (not usually given, don't expect it)

    NOTE #1.The power module has an air-cooled resistor which senses incoming air temperature. The logic modules uses this information to control the field current in the alternator. This code applies ONLY to alternators whose voltage is computer regulated. If you lose the feed to keep RAM information stored when the engine's off, you also lose battery voltage sensing. -- Bohdan Bodnar

    NOTE #2.From the 1995 TRUCK manuals: the trailer towing package includes a transmission coolant temp sensor while the standard package doesn't. This may cause the low (no) voltage indication. -- J.E. Winburn

    NOTE #3.Matt Rowe comments: The throttle postion circuit tells the computer how far the accelerator is depressed. The Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) is on the throttle body on the opposite side of the throttle cable. The connector should have a round rubber cover over the connections. Clear the fault codes, start the car and try jiggling the wires/connectors to try to trip a fault code. Loss of this signal could cause other problems.

    NOTE #4.During cranking, the computer will test the current through the injector to see whether there's too much resistance in the injector's path. If there is, code 26 is set.

    The problem may be cured with tuner cleaner on the connectors.

    For TBI engines, the injector's cold resistance should be between 0.9 and 1.2 ohms (specs vary with year). This is a peak-and-hold injector. With the engine idling the peak period should be about 1.2 milliseconds whereas the hold period will vary. If it's lower than this at idle, then the injector's shorted or there's a defect in the injector driver circuit. (Bohdan Bodnar)

    NOTE #5.Wade Goldman wrote: In my case, the breather tube leading into the catalytic converter had rusted and become detached. This some how would cause the sensor to read an over rich condition and run crummy. I did not trust the reliability of the weld over a corroded surface and opted for the more expensive route of replacing the converter, breather tube and all.

    NOTE #6.The Z1 voltage is the voltage of the circuits fed by the autoshutdown relay. This typically includes fuel pump and switched-battery feed to the ignition coil(s). In my Le Baron, the Z1 circuit leaves the power module and splits into two paths: the fuel pump and the positive side of the ignition coil. Internal to the power module is the auto shutdown relay (in my case, it's a sealed box about 1" by 1"). The output voltage is monitored to determine whether the relay responds correctly. I suspect that the ASD relay (and, therefore, the Z1 circuit) also feeds the fuel injector(s) driver(s) and current sensing circuit, but can't prove this.

    I've used the Z1 voltage to test for good power connections to the power module. I connected my OTC 500 multimeter from the battery's positive post to the ignition coil's switched battery terminal and measured the voltage drop using the bar graph to monitor peak voltages. Voltage spikes of around 200 mV to 300 mV are ok -- anything more means tv tuner cleaner time (or replacing the power module). Another thing to check is the maximum voltage drop during the priming pulse. With the old power module, I was losing about 2 volts across the circuit; the replacement is losing about 1/4 volt. (Thanks,

    Note #7Steve Knickerbocker wrote: Inside your distributor you have two pickups, one is for the ignition and one is to tell the computer where number one cylinder is in its rotation. If you look at the four slotted tangs inside there you will see one has a bigger slot, that's the one that tells the sync pickup what's number one. In other words, the pickup inside the distributor is bad.

    reprinted with permission

  • #2
    Thank you so much for sharing this with us. It is very much appreciated.
    1967 W200.aka.Hank
    1946 WDX.aka.Shorty
    2012 Ram 2500 PowerWagon.aka Ollie

    Life is easier in a lower gear.