Hypoid Rear End Lube

[sret43]

First, what does the term "Hypoid" mean when Dodge says my rear end is a Hypoid? :)

I drained the lube from my 1958 D400 Full-Floating, Hypoid rear end but I cannot find documentation on the recommended oil for it. Any info out there?

Thanks, Steve

[Desoto61]

The short version is the hypoid moves the pinion gear off center of the ring gear (center of both gears do not intercept). This provides more surface area for gear contact and moves the pinion higher or lower in the differential to improve ground clearance or reduce cabin intrusion. It also allows for higher gear ratios since it is brother to both a ring and pinion and a worm gear.

The special fluid is required because of the way the gears mesh which involves more sliding of the two gear surfaces.

More information than you probably wanted: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hypoid

Not sure the specific requirements but found this recommendation from a search:

For everyday driving API GL-5 performance and SAE 75W-90 viscosity is recommended. Heavy towing or hauling may require the use of API GL-5, 75W-140 viscosity since pressure between the ring and pinion gears are elevated.

[sret43]

Thanks for the info.

Well, I finally got my left rear brake drum/hub off. Shoes and drum look great but the wheel cylinders are frozen. This just may be the feather that broke the camels back bringing my D400 to Iowa next week. I've been working so hard on it day & night and even mornings before going to work. Do you guys think that if I brought the beast anyway that maybe there's a shop in Fairfield that could help me out? I really want to bring the truck along, even if it is a 1900 mile trip.
Steve

[Ron in Indiana]

Steve, I don't know about a shop in Fairfield other than VPW and they do work on trucks during the rally. Have you looked to see if the wheel cylinders are available? If they are I'm sure something could be done since you've gotten the drums off. The biggest trick is if the lines can be broken free without twisting them off. You might even talk some guy from Indiana to give you a hand right at the fairgrounds. One year a TW had it's front axle changed in the open air building so it could be driven back to MN. Haul it out, there are never to many Power Giant trucks at the rally.

[KevinM]

Steve,

I had frozen WC's on the W300 when she arrived, good chance they are the same on the 400 but you'll need to check to be sure, your parts store can cross reference, here are the part #'s

Front ....Wagner WC32864
Rear......Wagner WC9337


Hope this helps.....Kevin

[oldmopar]

First, what does the term "Hypoid" mean when Dodge says my rear end is a Hypoid? :)
I drained the lube from my 1958 D400 Full-Floating, Hypoid rear end but I cannot find documentation on the recommended oil for it. Any info out there?

Thanks, Steve

Not sure what the difference is but the original service manuals show a GL4 . The napa by me carries both a GL4 and GL5. I used the GL4 when I changed my front and rear fluid. I use a and recommend a electric transfer pump it makes the job easier

[Ron in Indiana]

Steve, I checked on WCs today at the best place in Ft Wayne. They have two but can get the other two since their book says you have two WC's on each side. The price is $66.51 each. Let me know if this helps or if you need them.

[sret43]

I was able to pull the WC's off late last night. My little spring wrench did the trick and the lines didn't twist. Early this morning I stopped at Napa and was able to order two WC's and a hub seal. I'm only doing the left rear this time around. When I get back home after the Rally I'll finish up on the rest of the brakes.

I had 4" fender extensions made and still have to trim to length, drill, primer & paint. It's going to be a raddle can job with a block of wood between the running board and fender. It's crunch time and I won't be able to leave until Saturday at this point. That's a day late off my schedule.

Steve

[Ron in Indiana]

Sounds good and glad you got parts coming. We had the front drums turned, the shoes relined and the power booster rebuild on the green 58 of Terry's. We got it all back together this afternoon and it stops straight as an arrow with hands off the wheel.

Tonight we pulled the intake and exhaust manifolds from Stubby due to a cracked exhaust manifold. We got lucky and didn't break off any studs or bolts. I have to get some new bolts for the intake to exhaust connection and two for the manifold itself but it should be together tomorrow night. Now if Bob gets my seat done I'll only have the bumper to paint and mount. So Steve don't feel like you're the only one doing a last minute thrash. I'm lucky enough to have a secret weapon, my good friend Pieter.

[sret43]

Speaking of exhaust manifolds. My right exhaust manifold is cracked but I'm just going to have to leave it for now. Plus I need to strap on a muffler. Just finished the drive shafts.