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Time to get back to work on my truck

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  • Time to get back to work on my truck

    Its been a while since I worked on the 59 w200 as got side tracked on another project. I have acquired some parts while the project was on hold and actually got some good deals on ebay. Picked up 2 front fenders that will need almost no body work, I think from a d400 or 500 but look like they will fit my truck and also picked up some almost new warn hubs newer style 9072 but I think they will also work correctly.
    Still be about a month or so before I can get back on the truck but reading the project posts by Ron and Moparfreak69 is motovating me to get back to work.

  • #2
    Funny how the best layed plans get knocked out of place by something else. I was hoping to get some work done on CC but we reroofed my mom's house last weekend. This weekend it was my Townwagon needing a head swap which went south due to a parts snafu. And I had to finish the roof job by myself this afternoon. Glad to hear you scored some fenders. I'm still hoping to paint as soon as I can before it gets to cold. Then it's reassembly time but something else will no doubt hit the fan. So many projects, so little..... well you guys know all about that.

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    • #3
      Glad my thread accomplished something other than taking up space and annoying people looking for something else ;-)

      My project timeline became open-ended due to set-backs and schedule constraints. I managed to come up with another option for pushing my plow this winter to allow me to take more time on the '59 and get it done right the first time. Keep at it, they are sure fun researching, working on and discovering all the little things that set them apart from the rest of the field of trucks.

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      • #4
        3 months later actually got somer work done

        I started this thread almost 3 months ago but finally got some work done today. Removed both front fenders as they are going to be replaced the left took a while it was the worst and had the most repairs the right went quicker maybe because i learned on the left. Now that the fenders are off next thing will be to remove the inner fenders and cleaning them up hopefully it will not be another 3 months





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        • #5
          Well you've got the hard work out of the way as the inners are much easier with the fenders gone. Those bolts around the headlights are the worse to get at. I pulled one on another 58 I have in the shop with the inner fender attached. It came off but would have been easier with the inner fender cut loose. Make sure the edges of the new fenders at the core support are not pulled out. This will make the gaps tight when you bolt them up. A little hammer work will make right angles of the attachment points. Glad somebody is making some progress it's been to long since I have. Funny how life gets in the way sometimes. Have a good one.

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          • #6
            Looking good oldmopar. Remember, ANY progress, is good progress. I managed to get my new frame at the house and the bed sitting (literally just sitting) on it but thanks to snow and other events that is all I have gotten done to it. A couple weeks off of school and I still cant do anything to it yet because the in-laws are in town from Germany for 2 more weeks. Any free time goes to that. That's life though.

            Truck looks pretty solid up front though. No serious rust issues that I can see. Blast those inner fenders and shoot em with some paint and that looks to be all you have to do to them.
            Keep the updates coming, no matter how slow or minor. We all like to drool a little ;-)

            Ben

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            • #7
              I removed the inner fenders today they came off pretty easy only problem was on the drivers side where it connected at the rear the metal was rusted to the washer and nut and I ripped out small section when I tried to remove it but a patch will take care of that. I want to try out electronic rust removal on the inner fenders I know someone who used it for small parts and it works real good so I am planning on collecting what I need to get de-rusted and using a plastic garbage can and putting the parts in and see how it comes out. This will have to wait until after xmas so I can get the necessary items to make it work. Most of the truck is solid ,the cab front floors were patched and will need to be done again and some rust through around the front cab mounts mostly the left. The next few days are busy but should have time to work on the truck after the holidays .

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              • #8
                I got a better look at the cab mounts after I removed the patches from the po the mounts to the frame are good but floor support on the left needs to be redone, the right is not too bad even rubber look good so it just needs some minor work. I ordered some cabmounts rubbers from roberts that I hope will work.





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                • #9
                  This looks pretty typical of the PG's I've seen. The frame mounts are usually in good shape so it's always the floor. A poor design to have that lip at the stepwell to hold the mat from curing up. I built the last cab mount in two pieces. One flat for the bolt and another for the "pocket". Be aware that there is a heavier gauge piece under the floor to spread the load. I used a piece of 16 gauge for it. The floor will crack if you don't reinforce with this extra layer which sits just under the floor. The firewall side is a cut and form piece depending on how much is missing. Looks like you need a tranny cover too. Those are getting scarce. So block up the cab and start fabing sheet metal. Remember cardboard is our friend for making patterns. Let me know if you need help. Been there several times and more to come.

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                  • #10
                    I should be ok with the cabmounts I recreated some floor supports for a 52 plymouth a while back used some 4" channel that worked ok. The trans cover is only bad on the drivers side so not too bad of a job there the drivers stepwell does neep some attention I have a d300 parts truck that I think has a good passenger side step well I may be able to ues that to replace/repair the left it almost looks like if I reversed it it would fit the left side but its snowing right now so that will have for a while

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                    • #11
                      You still have your work cut out for you, no pun intended haha. I just finished repairing the corner of a hood that was cracked at the edge. The hack who tried to repair it did a down and dirty by brazing the sheet metal. A portion was missing so he pulled the top down a good 3/8 " before brazing it. I blew out the brass with a torch and blow gun to get it cleaned to weld in a patch. I formed the patch on my shrinker because of the missing edge. With a bit of careful trimming and spot welding the patch with my mig it was good as new. I used a profile gauge to match the curve of the hood. I only had to use a very thin coat of filler to finish.

                      You eastern guys have my sympathy working with these really rusty trucks. We have the same salt issues but not your extent on EVERY truck. Hope it all turns out for you. Keep taking the pictures. I know what you mean about the snow and cold too. It's 5 degrees here in Indiana this morning.

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                      • #12
                        I did get the right cab mount fixed, fit a patch for the right side floor and took a shot at repairing the trans cover for my w200. I did as Ron had suggested and use card board for a template that did make things a little easier. The left side will need more attention as I need to fix or replace the stepwell so I have something to attach the left cab mount to. Snow is starting to melt here in NJ so hopefully spring is on its way

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