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I've been having issues with the driver's door on my 64 Townwagon. It's been sagging due to rust making it hard to close. Today I traded it out with another door I have in my parts stash. I thought it was going to be as simple as unbolt and bolt the new door in it's place. Wrong, seems the early doors have four bolt hinges and I have three. So I looked for another door which was just a shell. I ended up swapping all the parts from my door to this new shell. I set the door for initial fit and found it was too far forward. I followed the FSM by putting a socket in the hinge and closing the door. A couple of tries at this and it's sprung back to the latch. I've found that these doors on the TW's and PG's don't fit well in the jamb opening. The best that can be done is a compromise on the fit and gaps. I will have to paint this door and apply the weatherstripping but that's down the road for now. At least I can open and close my door now.
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I noticed when I was dealing with my drivers door that even within the same year there are some pretty strange differences. My W100 had bolts holding the hinges to both the cab and the door. The donor D500 I got the door from had the hinges bolted to the cab, but riveted to the doors. Glad I just went for the cab bolts the first try, would have been a pain in the rear to try to deal with the rivets. I am trying to decide whether I want to make the hinges bolt to the door by removing the rivets and making my own nut plate.
Funny how that stuff works out.
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