Originally posted by Aaron S
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W500 donor cab options?
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Yes, the bolt pattern is the same on all early hemis (Dodge, Desoto, and Chrysler) from about 1954 straight up through the LA series engines. Earlier motors have a bellhousing extension cast onto the back of the block and are much more difficult to transplant.
With LA bellhousings there can be small variations in dowel pin placement and special flywheels are sometimes necessary to properly index from the crank flange to the transmission input shaft. These issues are not all that difficult to overcome.
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bell housings
The small block bell housings changed in 1961 on trucks, the cars were either 60 or 62, I don't remember which. The Hemi matches the prior but not the after. If you want to put the Hemi in the 61 or newer you need the adapter.
http://www.hothemiheads.com/transmis...ar_manual.html
That link is just an example, the are others.
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bell housings
Not quite, I've never set one up to tell for sure, the top 5 bolts may be the same but the dowel pins and the bottom bolts are in different places. You also need the approx. 1 in spacer to deal with longer crank on the early engines. The crank flange is also different. Flywheels won't interchange between the engines or the bell housings.
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Would this work for you Doc Dave?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1960-...item5644a9028a
Starting price seems steep.
Bucky
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Bucky,
Thanks, that would work I think, although I agree the price seems a bit high for a parts truck with no engine. Now I am going to actively look for a cab and some of the front sheet metal now that I have the truck home. I will post pics soon; got to experiment with modifying sizes of the pics. My PC had an automatic program I downloaded that did it for me, and now that I have an Apple I have to practice doing it by hand.
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Got her home! My wife says she's the big yellow ugly, but I told her that she will be Cinderella once I get her fixed up haha.
The frame extension is 4 feet. I would like to cut it back some. I measure just over 10 feet from the back of the cab to where they fish plated the joint for the extension. That is about 4 inches beyond the last crossmember that has the pintle. I would have thought the side frame members would only be about an inch beyond the last crossmember? Anyway, I am open to opinions. I am thinking I would like a flatbed with a hydraulic dump mechanism.
Also, the truck has the NP 420 tranny, and I would like to find an overdrive one either for gas or a diesel transplant.
I also noted that one of the rear outer wheels looks to be a 2 piece wheel with a center "band". One of my truck friends called it a widowmaker. Up front are split ring wheels like I am used to with the flatfender. Is this 2 piece wheel a non-original? Lots to learn new about these PG's for me.
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More pics of my W500 PG, you can see the door well, the motor -can be turned over at flywheel, but carb linkage can't be moved, and also the wheel I mention in the post.
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Dave it's a little crusty around the edges but it can be saved. A barrel of elbow grease, a few parts and some time the wife will be singing a different tune. It goes like this "That's all you ever do is work on that ugly old truck". Well maybe not.... Anyway looks like the 59 cab I have will do you fine. How are the bottoms of your doors? The outside skins look good from what I can see. It's the bottoms that rot out due to crud inside and plugged drain holes. The front clip looks solid just need a dose of penetrating oil on the hood hinges. I doubt the rear rims are original to the truck and yes they are widow makers. You can work with split RINGS, split RIMS are why no one will work on either. As for the frame, a dump truck has the frame as short to the rear hangers as possible. If you're looking for a little longer bed you could leave a little over hang. Talk to a truck shop that sells beds if you have one in your area about what they would recommend. They may even have a used takeoff for sale that will work for you. You may want to ask about a fuel tank too. You have a late model V-8 instead of a poly. Cover the carb and give it a good cleaning with a pressure washer or at least a blow gun. If you can get spark and have compression you might be surprised in getting it running. Those old carbs aren't hard to rebuild. Try a little gas in the throat to see if it'll pop before you go into a rebuild. Let me know how I can help. Power Giants have WAY more room in the cab than those other Power Wagons.
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Ron,
Thanks again very much for the advice and input.
The driver door is rotten in the bottom, but the outside skins seem o.k. as you said. The passenger door is a little better. Nearly the entire floor is rotten in the cab.
I will take your advice and talk to a truck shop about the bed issues, before I cut on the frame extension.
I will probably not do much with this truck for a bit, as I am starting my M37 restomod this winter. I am thinking that it will go a lot faster than my flatfender resto for many reasons, but still will be a few years in the very least.
What is the possibility of your getting in a good 1960 cab in the next couple years? I would prefer to stay with this model year on parts, but may change my mind. I know the '59's are fairly close in design.
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