w-100 restore

[ickety]

I'm a little confused its all wired with no fuse block?

The ribbed mat is there.

The tranny cover shift hole is off and it covers the gas pedal. I know a guy that can fab me a floor and he may be my best floor route.

Scored while sorting the parts covering the rear new weather stripping for the truck

[Ron in Indiana]

Nope, no fuse block. A throw back to the early days of truck wiring I guess. Save the mat if you're not going to use it. Anything else for that matter it's great trading stock. Might suggest if possible to weld a patch on the existing cover rather than start from scratch. If you don't go this route do the same with your tunnel cover and trade/sell it. One other word of caution are the slider windows. These are pain to reinstall and there is a VERY limited supply source for the correct rubber. These are two different mouldings that hold the windows in place. Don't pull the window frames UNTIL you have replacements in hand. Trust me on this. There are instructions on how to install the side sliders but if you can live with what you have I'd go that route. To me it was the hardest part of restoring a TW aside from the acres of sheet metal that needs sanding.

[ickety]

One good thing about living in southern california is we don't have to worry about cars rusting out... unfortunately its so dry and hot out here the parts like rubber mats dry out and basically crumble to the touch.

[Gordon Maney]

One good thing about living in southern california is we don't have to worry about cars rusting out... unfortunately its so dry and hot out here the parts like rubber mats dry out and basically crumble to the touch.

I envy you.

[ickety]

Dodge did not mess around bolting the Inner and outer fenders in 1961 I got a workout most the bolts were so rusty I just snapped them.

Found a harness today.I forgot how ugly front drum brakes are.

[ickety]

Between the 2 framerails under the rear windows there is rubber hose running vertically.

Also I can't get a vin number not seeing it on the frame and door plate is rubbed off due to door not being adjusted.

[Ron in Indiana]

Rusty bolts ?!? I thought things didn't rust out there? LOL Yes there are a lot of bolts holding the fenders. At least they are easy to replace. Where they fine thread? I don't know when they switched from fine to course thread bolts. Where did you find a harness?

The hoses are drains for the sliding windows. They are usually plugged with dirt. I replaced mine with poly tubing and fittings. The frame numbers are usually hard to see and it will probably take a wire brush to see them. Some people say it looked like a monkey with a tap hammer stamped them. It should be from the front spring hanger to the center of the axle on the right outer side. Keywords SHOULD BE. Drum brakes ugly? They're vintage haha.

[ickety]

Yea the rust does happen .

looks decent under valve cover

cant stand in the engine bay of a honda. ha ha ha
love this room im no tiny man but im still comfy walking around the motor

[Ron in Indiana]

This is a lot of room under the hood, I don't know about strolling around in there haha. Looks like the 383 swap was a work in progress. Does it have a hydraulic clutch bell housing? Just wondering since I don't see a line connected to the clutch MC. That's some considerable art you're sporting there.

[ickety]

Finally found the vin today i gave up but while removing the doors saw a bit of a number, took some wire brushing and degreaser.

1161308739

so if i an reading it right:
2wd, 1/2 ton, 6 cylinder, warren truck plant built 1963.

glad i know. the swap definately was a work in progerss i think the guy just got to dropping the engine back in and lost interest.

[ickety]

Buddys wife put her foot down and made him drive backhome this evening no more second set of hands. I have tomorrow off so I hope to have the drivers side front end stripped down. I got a good collection of doors, hood, fenders ready to go get smoothed and primered when time comes.

my 2 car garage is shaped like the lette "L" so getting around the wagon is a pain.

If anyone could link photos of their floor in a 1963 d100 front/rear and advise on seat mounting options speaking from their experiences. I do have the original brackets in the floor. I'm saving parts got the hokey signals off the front

Leafs and shocks are obviously shot, the truck sitting unsprung the center of front bumper bottom is 11.5 inches once the springs leafs are replaced where should I expect this clearence to be? Like I said its a small garage lol don't want to build myself in.

I have read most tw owners ditch the slant motors and recommend 318 or 440 as they must bolt pretty much right in. This 383 setup is going to work but the front cross member under the motor was moved forward several inches and I don't have much clearence in the front of the motor.

[ickety]

took alot of naps today, still managed to get some acomplished

[Ron in Indiana]

How long has the 383 been sitting? Have you tried to turn it over? I'm still curious about the bellhousing too. More than a few bolts holding the fenders to the core support huh? You're in deep now haha.

[ickety]

ron more than a few bolts is one way to put it.

it looks like the motor sat about a year judging from the dust i need to get a starter and rig up a quick little run session. im kinda married to the 383 now since the chassis has been redrilled and the cross member moved. why he did not get a 318 or 440 i still dont know. prolly had this one sitting around.

my list i need before i can shart motor

manifolds for exhaust
radiator
valve covers
waterpump
starter
belts
oil pan

im in deep just not deep enough yet.

[Ron in Indiana]

I should have told you to pull the front clip as one unit THEN pull it apart if needed it. They will lift off and go back on that way. Makes it easier to get to the inner bolts. I'd try a break over bar on the crank bolt to see if it will turn over before you get to far down the road. A poly 318 is a great engine and a will pull all day long. Manifolds and exhaust may be a problem with clearance. I hope the cross member is bolted in well they are rivited at the factory. I changed out mine a my 59 W200 because someone torched a hole in the front cross member right where the motor mounts go for a 230. It wasn't fun getting the old one out or the new one in. How much was it moved? As long as you can get oil pressure I'd try to get some noise out of it even for a second or three. The other stuff can wait. That way if this motor is bad for whatever reason you won't throw money down a rat hole. Just saying.