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I recently brought my 1958 Power Giant W100 with non-floating axle to the repair shop to replace the axle seal and bearing. I drove it about 3 miles and then a guy asked me to give him a tow down main street, he was driving a Ford F150. I was in second gear and once I tightened the chain I heard a snap and the truck would barely move, I then limped it to the repair shop again. It has a sure-grip differential and come to find out the bearing on the outer right rear axle went through the backing plate that holds it. The hole was quite large before the bearing pushed through, approximately 2.25". The splined end of axle about 1/16" is ground off but the rest of the axle looks fine. They haven't looked at the third member yet but I am having the backing plate welded a smaller diameter hole. Has anyone ever seen this happen and is it just a coincidence that the bearing and seal had just been replaced?
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It seems likely it is a coincidence, but it would help to see the parts. I am not suggesting you can show them to us, just talking.
No fasteners holding the backing plate to the axle housing were loose?Power Wagon Advertiser monthly magazine, editor & publisher.
Why is it that the inside of old truck cabs smell so good? -
I think I figured it out they pressed the bearing on the shaft backwards, so with the race on the inside, not the outer side....Comment
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Oh my.Power Wagon Advertiser monthly magazine, editor & publisher.
Why is it that the inside of old truck cabs smell so good?Comment
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Things like this seem more and more prone to happen these days with mechanics that are not familiar with what they are attempting to fix. It is best to seek service from an outlet that specializes in the repair/rebuild of what you are working on.
There are precious few gear box and axle rebuild specialist in your run of the mill shops any more. About all they can do responsibly is to remove an entire unit and replace with a new or rebuilt one. When it comes down to the actual rebuild and proper set up of a component, they are in many cases lost completely.Comment
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Very true of the "Replace a part" in the shops today,there does`nt seem to be a lot of skill in the actual "Rebuild" of complete components.
Working as a mechanic for the Montana D.O.T. for over thirty one years I got to do a lot of rebuilding of engines,transmissions,differentials and then into the "Specialty" types of components such as Hydraulic systems and all the components that makes them work.
I have rebuilt several differentials and they all worked like they should when I got them finished but I still question Myself when it comes to setting pinion depth and backlash between the ring gear and the pinion.
I will,when I rebuild the rear differential on My W 100 disasemble and clean all the components then I have a friend that owns a shop and has the pinion depth tooling and the real expertize when it comes to setting those up,I`ll pay Him to do that portion of the job rather than take a chance of screwing it up and ruining some perfectly good parts.
I think the real trick to getting them correct is to measure everything before disasembling them.Comment
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If the same gear set and bearings are going back in, measuring and marking so you know exactly how it was at the onset is plenty sufficient to go back correctly; assuming it was correct to start with.
If any bearings or the gear set is replaced, it will require a totally new setup. In that case how it was, other than just appearance "in general" is really of no use.Comment
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I`m thinking that when/if replacing bearings but still using the "Old" ringear/pinion set,that,it should go back together as close as possible to what these two components were before disasembling or a rapid wear would occur when the untouched portion of a gear would be in contact with a broken in and worn part of another gear,would that be correct ???Originally posted by Charles Talbert View PostComment
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Any time bearings are changed, the set up will also change. Ideally if you are going as far as changing all bearings, it would be best to install new gears too. Checking tooth contact area and reading gear backlash before tear down and setting back up as close as possible would be necessary if running the old gear set. As long as you are close, I've never seen rapid wear become an issue. A noise resulting in the set running out of its already established wear pattern would be the primary concern. Sometimes it just isn't possible to hit the exact combination with pre-run gears, and sometimes you can get lucky.Comment
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