65 Townie roof

[Gordon Tucker]

Been away awhile but ever lurking.... looks like I can no longer ignore the after effects of a job not well done 10yrs or more ago. (not by me) Rust was cut out, some patches were tacked in then filled with bondo, and behind it all was expanding foam, lots of it! She has been moved to the side yard and I am picking at the cancer. I am thinking the entire seam needs to go. I don't see how I could recreate the a-joing area with rust blistering everywhere + I am not sure how the metal originally laid down. Are there any reasons I should not cut out the whole seam and patch in solid steel? then spot/plug weld to the roof frame support?(a section at a time of course). Maybe Ron has an idea?
Thanks
Gordon

[Ron in Indiana]

Gordon, you've got a real batch of ugliness there. People who use foam in body work should be... well with animals it's called neutered. I think your best course of action is to try to locate a TW that could be sectioned. I believe there is more to this area than just the roof and sides. With the structural support built into the inside lap joint it holds the integrity of the roof and window section. I know this probably isn't what you wanted to hear and it may be difficult to find a roof to section. I do know there are a couple of bodies at VPW that could be candidates for what you need. What does the rest of the body look like? Is it worth saving or better to look for an entire tub? With the rust as close to the window frames I feel replacing with an original section would be the best way to go. Careful measuring and then cutting with a saw this can be done. My TW was a total wreck and this joint is a problem area. If you do go the route I suggest I'd have the rest of the joint media blasted then primed with etching primer followed with seam sealer. There are a number of rust conversion/ sealer products on the market also but media blasting will get the majority of the rust. Don't use sand as it will warp the metal. At the roof joint I'd flange the roof patch to under lay the original roof and it will provide a more stable edge to weld. Being inside the cab it won't catch water to cause rust. Not knowing the rest of your TW's condition I will offer this also. I make and sell form fitting patches for the rear edges of the front fenders and you can use Utiline fenders to repair the wheel lips.

[Gordon Tucker]

Thanks Ron, I am not sure there is enough good area to section to. I may need a whole body, so if I make it worse I only gain experience...LOL. The rest of the body condition is debatable, as I remove paint I find lots of bad repairs....and a bullet hole, 1 so far, filled with a plug of bondo, the rear fender lips are all bondo bout 1/2 thick. I don't see any vehicles on VPW site, do I just call them? Here are some more pics.

[Gordon Tucker]

More Pictures.

[Ron in Indiana]

That's why I asked about the condition of rest of the body. The bullet hole is the least of the problems. To repair your roof seam you will need to section yours down into the window frame and up to good metal in the roof. It looks like it could be done with careful cutting and fitting. The bodies at VPW are just laying in their yard waiting to be cut up in parts. The shipping would be the biggest problem getting them to SoCa. I'd call in and talk to Jens about it. Send him pictures or refer him to those posted here so he can see how much metal you'll need. The wheel lips aren't a huge deal to weld in compared to what you'll face with the roof. I see you have a 58 grill instead of a 65 aluminum grill.

[Gordon Tucker]

Got Her in 2005

Used to be Peter Coyotes Truck. He liked the 58 grill better so found one and replaced it. Its a 2wd body on a 4wd frame with a 78 Ram charger front dana with disk brakes and PS. He paid an auto body shop really good money for the repair (with a disclaimer on the receipt "the rust above the windows and doors will return" yep tack welds and bondo pushed thru the cracks and left over rust, sure does). The inside cargo area has a frame built out of channel supporting the sides with no inner skin. That area is really solid and has surface rust only. Health reasons and money have kept me from starting sooner (I still have neither, but time is wasting away) , I drove her most every weekend and kept her covered, but saw bubbles after the first year. Thanks for the info Ron I have followed most of your posts here and on the DPWF, going back to Jill's PPE....., I will try and keep this thread updated.

[Ron in Indiana]

I can relate with your two issues, money and time. My 64 is beginning to bleed again and I need to get after it. I have doors and front fenders to replace the old ones. With all the current "paying jobs" I don't have time for my own, the classic shoe cobblers kids go barefoot theme. haha. I don't know what body working skills you have or the tools to do the work so it's harder to pass along what I've gained over the years. I'll guide you as much as I can if you'd like. Most body shops won't touch a job like yours since most are just parts swappers anymore. Or if they would you'll be in for a long drawn out money pit with slow progress. I'm currently booked out for the forseeable future. Thanks for following my exploits I do seem to have a fan base.

[Gordon Tucker]

Being busy is a good thing, getting paid to work on old trucks even better. I have always been more mechanic than bodyman but I have done a "small amount" of bodywork with good results, nothing this big. I have an extra hood, both doors, both fenders, and a core support that I have been using as practice, welding closed the extra mirror holes, welding the cracks by the handles and window frame. I have a small 135 lincoln mig loaded with easy grind wire, and quite a few bodyman tools. No way can I afford to pay someone to do this, and I think it will be far more gratifying to do it myself.

[Ron in Indiana]

Yes I am fortunate that I can work on the trucks and get paid doing it. If you have a working knowledge and the tools for the job then you are half way to getting it done. I too have a 135 welder that foes just fine for this work. The key will be planning every cut well before you start the first cut. I feel it will be to your advantage to use a section of a body to replace what's rusted away. I'll take damage over rust any day at least you have something to work with. By getting a piece well over the size you need by 6-8" at the perimeter you'll have plenty to trim for a good fit. Take your time fitting and then tack weld by jumping around to avoid warpage. The replacement piece will guide you on where to cut as you study it. Are you on the TW list that's on Yahoo? There are plenty of guys who may be able to get you the needed section for your Townie closer than Iowa. If it weren't for all the geography between us I could lend you a hand.

[LFD270ben]

I think the same guy did all the body repairs on my Truck only he used windshield adhesive everywhere instead of spray foam.

[Gordon Tucker]

Progress

Been a while with an update......But I have been slowly cutting out short sections at a time, and have completely removed the seam all the way around the roof. I made a hammer form out of wood to make the corner of the window but I had to weld the flange as a second piece. The longer window edge was made from hammering over a piece of scrap metal that had the same profile as the flange curve. I have a couple of areas above the front doors that I am finishing up then I will move to the rear fender lips which are destroyed and were shaped completely from plastic filler.

[Gordon Tucker]

More pics

Repair above drivers door.

[Gordon Tucker]

Closing Holes

Welding up holes in the roof from a long gone roof rack.

[Gordon Tucker]

Next areas to repair.

I have been looking for some Utiline truck bed fenders to rebuild my fenders, following Ron in Indiana's lead.....but not having much luck. If I could get a good idea of the correct profile I will try shaping my own.....out of metal...NOT plastic filler, LOL.