Rebuilt carb in, now come the adjustments

[Sparman]

So I purchased a rebuilt Carter 2bbl from Rockauto. It was rebuilt by Autoline and appears to be a nice job.

This replaces the Stromberg that was on the truck originally and was leaking from every oriface possible. Also, the vacuum port for the distrbutor was wrapped with painters tape to achieve some sort of press fit, so I believe this new carb to be a huge improvement.

My questions are these: the carb has two (2) needle adjusters on the base. I have played with these and have been able to get the truck to start and idle. I have adjusted the "hot idle" adjuster on the throttle linkage and have a respectable warm idle now. However, when I open the throttle it seems to "bog" down a bit and overall, the truck seems to be running too rich.

Any advice?

also:

1) What is the proper approach to checking the timing?

2) How should I verify that the vacuum advance on the distributor is working correctly?

3) How can I confirm that the voltage ballast resistor is good?

As always, thanks for any information you can provide.

I would like to get her running respectfully enough for me to drive to the DMV for the tech inspection.

Curt

[Gordon Maney]

I am uncertain as to what you mean by hot idle adjuster. I assume you are meaning the idle speed adjustment that effectively sets a throttle stop with a screw.

If you open the throttle and it has a hesitation, there are a couple of possible causes. One is that your vacuum advance is not working. Another is that the accelerator pump your carburetor is not working.

When you say it seems to be running rich, what causes you to say that?

To set the timing you would need to have a timing light. Have the engine running at idle speed, disconnect the vacuum advance and plug the hose with a golf fee or similar item. Connect the trigger lead on the timing right to the number one plug wire. Point the timing light at the timing marks to measure the present timing. If required, loosen the distributor clamp bolt and rotate the distributor while watching the timing marks. Once the marks are aligned properly, tighten the bolt. Verify it is still correct after that.

A simple test for the vacuum advance would be to reconnect the advance line while you are shining the timing light on the marks. The timing should change. You can also use a hand operated vacuum pump to evacuate the advance diaphragm. You can remove the distributor cap and watch the breaker plate rotate when you do that — assuming the vacuum diaphragm is good and/or the breaker plate is not seized.

With the engines shut off, grab the rotor with your fingers and try rotating it both directions; it should turn in one direction and then spring back. That is from movement of the centrifugal advance mechanism.

You can check your ballast resistor with an ohm meter to make sure it is not open, or an incomplete circuit. Unless you have a specification for the resistance value, you would be unable to test it beyond that.