could a Cummins replace a 440?

[thehoov!]

Wondering if I would be happy with a Cummins over this mildly built 440 with a 850 double pumper and port injected N2O. Never had a diesel before, easily more torque, but such a slow rev, how can that be any fun?

[Ron in Indiana]

Do I detect a bit of sarcasm here? haha You've got a rompin' stompin 440 with NOS and you want a Cummins? Granted Cummins are great I've got one in my 01 but to put a 6bt in that truck will take a LOT of work. A 4bt won't even come close to that 440 in the fun factor unless you like the sound of a tractor. What backs up the 440? That must be a thrill when the nitrous comes on.

[Gordon Maney]

The Cummins would also be heavier.

[Tom Petroff]

As mentioned would be tough to fit and heavy,But it can be moded to run with or beat.

"but such a slow rev, how can that be any fun?"

Try This (speakers on?)

http://www.dieseltruckresource.com/video/CTD_fuel.wmv

TGP

[thehoov!]

drivetrain

Beheind the 440 is a 727 reverse manual valve body with 44re HD parts in her, a 205, 1410 u-joints, Dana 60's have 1 1/2" 35 splines axles, with a Detroit locker in the rear and a true track up front. Disc brakes all around. I wonder is it is even possible to fit the charge air cooler and radiator inside the sheet metal. The core support would have to go and figure out how to hold up the sheet metal. The n2o has two sets of solenoids, 125hp and 250 HP set up sequencialy to run 125 in first, 250 in second and 375 in third. 13.24 quarter mile with n2o 16.71 without in 2wd on 33" BFG's. Amazingly no traction problems on the drag strip, the street is a different mater. Sideways burning the tires when passing at 60 with the 250 shot in second. Probably should use 4X4 in the wet, but I haven't got a reckless driving ticket yet, so I don't.

The motor is tired from all the aluminizing of the spark plugs from not backing down the timing enough and the 100's of ten pound bottles of laughing gas I've burned along with 20 years of driving.

The cost of upgrading to Indy heads and freshening up the lower end stroking her to 543 ci will be 10k. Swapping in a 6bt with a biturbo system would be cheaper dollars wise. I have a fab shop, WWW.strongweld.com and do engine conversions, so it would only be time and toil and less cash out of my pocket.

Can I handle the stink when fired in the garage?

[b4pw]

You do like horsepower! You could get 800 hp pretty easily out of a 12 valve. A guy I work with had his rebuilt, running stock pump & turbo was 550-600 hp. He had $5000 in that. It only goes up from there. He started to put a 2nd turbo on it but never finished it. Not sure what was done to pump at that point. Several years ago, they were starting to use n2o on them but not sure how that ever turned out, if you like to use that. Roy

[Tom Petroff]

[QUOTE=
Can I handle the stink when fired in the garage?[/QUOTE]

If your in doubt with the smell of Diesel you better stay with Spark Plugs.

Love the smell of Diesel in the morning!

TGP

[thehoov!]

the smell

I love the smell of 112 octane race gas in the morning!

[JimmieD]

Sorry to answer late but this is the first time I've come by the forum in a couple of years.

"I wonder is it is even possible to fit the charge air cooler and radiator inside the sheet metal."

It's a very tight fit but you can fit a Dodge 1st Gen intercooler in front of radiator and behind the grill by cutting a slot in the sheet metal at bottom of upper grill opening. Cut a couple of tabs off I/C, fab some mounting brackets for bottom support, minor mods to aluminum grill and it will be almost invisible. May have to modify hood latch mechanism and use lock pins instead.

[Doc Dave]

glad you are back, Jimmie D.

[JimmieD]

Thanks, Doc, hope you're doing well. Kind of funny to look at various member's 'Join Date' in the side bar, gee, has it been that long?

A note to clarify on my post above: one cuts a slot in top of lower grill 'mouth' metalwork, which is bottom of upper grill opening. Cut off 2 mounting tabs from I/C, make up a couple of L shaped supports from 2" x 2" angle with some rubber padding on top of them to support I/C from the bottom and use remaining I/C tabs to secure I/C.

Drill out the rivets in the aluminum upper grill's mounting brackets and remove them, then reverse them and massage bracket's metal a bit and swap left for right and right for left to clear I/C, reinstall after I/C is in.

I/C tubes need 4" holes cut in radiator support so tubes can run through with one just barely clearing battery tray and radiator brackets on left side and the other just barely clearing heater fresh air inlet and radiator brackets on right side. Use some 3" aluminum tubing from I/C to turbo outlet and to engine intake horn with new silicone boots. Need to use one of the front facing 90* horns with correct intake manifold, pointing forward at I/C. That intake manifold also has the sensor for Solenoid type KSB, not used with Wax Motor type KSB which has sensor in block. Can use grid heater or grid heater delete, either one.

I/C fits with about 1/4" clearance from headlight buckets and headlight trim on each side. Must remove entire hood catch mechanism and substitute race type hood pins with locking spring clips.

Once installed the 1st Gen I/C can lower EGT's by 300*-500* on a long hard uphill pull. I/C is virtually invisible except to a Power Giant - Town Wagon expert and aluminum grill only extends farther forward by about 3/8" to 1/2" from original mounting.

Very, very tight fit but everybody said it can't be done at all, I/C won't fit in front of radiator and behind grill, no way. It fits. Doesn't noticeably effect engine cooling from radiator and leaves miles of room behind radiator for fan on a 4BT install.