Oil Bath Air Filter

[60pwrwgn]

What are the pros & cons of using the original oil bath air filter or changing to a K&N filter ?

[Ron in Indiana]

For me it's a matter of originality so I run an oil bath on my 230 flathead. I have a stock paper filter on my 64 TW with a 318 poly. I've had a K&N on my 01 Cummins but went back to a stock filter. Is there an advantage to a K&N? If there is I didn't see it myself. You have to pay the price first then the kit to clean it properly. That was a mess by itself in my opinion. The oil bath does it's job but if you intend to wheel off road I'd go with a paper filter for those off camber moments you might encounter. Clear as mud right? LOL Do whatever makes you happy it's your truck. You would have to find a clamp on filter if you're talking about your TW to switch to a paper element filter.

[60pwrwgn]

I was thinking of keeping the original one but putting a K&N or paper element filter in there instead of the oil. Is it possible ? Has it been done before? Thx

[Ron in Indiana]

No there isn't room and it won't flow or seal correctly. You'd need one from a later model with the clamp on the bottom to seal to your carb.

[60pwrwgn]

No there isn't room and it won't flow or seal correctly. You'd need one from a later model with the clamp on the bottom to seal to your carb.

Thanks Ron , I thought that might be the answer , should have the carb back from a rebuild soon & should be able to get it running again, I'll use the original for now & see what else is out there.
Is there any truth to the oil bath filter gunking up the carb.? It was nasty when I brought it in.

[Ron in Indiana]

Only if it's not serviced routinely like anything else. If the oil is to high above the rim it will choke off the engine I would think. To low or no oil and it won't do any filtering of the air which may have been the case with yours. I had a 75 W200 ex military truck with an oil bath air cleaner that I restored and figured if it's on a truck for the military it must do it's job.

[60pwrwgn]

I am going to keep it original . Would anyone know the correct amount & oil weight to use when changing the oil in the air filter ? It is a 318 motor if there is a difference...

[Ron in Indiana]

I use 10w30 and fill to the rim line inside the bowl as marked.

[60pwrwgn]

Thanks Ron , didn't think to check for a fill line.

[Doc Dave]

As to the thought of K and N,
The Turbo-Diesel Registry did some testing several years ago, and because of the results of the test, they stopped carrying K and N in their on-line store (Geno's Garage). Apparently the K and N did not do an adequate enough job of filtering the small dust particles. The bottom line was the more air that is allowed in, the more dirt.

[60pwrwgn]

So I finally got around to cleaning out this filter & I found what looks like a crud soaked element that can't be removed. Any ideas on how replace it or to clean it ? I'll attach the pics

[Ron in Indiana]

You are correct it can't be removed but it's always looked to me like it's similar to steel wool only coarser. I would soak it in diesel fuel or cleaning solvent and then let it drain for a few days. This is the final filtering of the incoming air to the engine.

[Chewie]

Kerosene or diesel will work. I put some in a five gallon bucket and swished mine around while listening to a game on the radio. I think most of the dirt gets trapped in the oil anyway. (Although I did find a couple leaf bits in the mesh..)
By halftime I hung it to drip into the bucket and it was good to go by the time the game was over. You could blow it dry with compressed air if you want, but I didn't bother.
There's an old farmers' trick about adding a little diesel to your gas tank to help with fuel mileage --I don't know if it actually works-- so I didn't sweat what was still in the mesh harming my engine..

[60pwrwgn]

I cleaned it out soaking in alcohol & then a spray down with carb cleaner. Plenty of clean air flow now. Ready now for the fresh rebuilt carb. Should have it in the shop & running next week.

[DrPepper]

Cleaning solvent...

has been the subject of many threads. I usually just listen, but thought I'd chime in this time. I used to buy "Stoddard Solvent" (was used for dry cleaning), nasty stuff but it cleaned better than laquore (sp?) thinner and leaves the part clean and dry. Years ago I went to buy some and the guy at the chemical co near me asked what I was using it for. When I told him it was auto parts wash he said, Stoddard is $9 a gallon or Mineral Spirits is $4 and the difference is it drys a little faster. Add some Laquore thinner if you want it to dry quicker.
Been using Mineral Spirits ever since.
I know it's bad for me, I use gloves and don't breath it. But, it works.
Dr Pepper