Clutch Eating

[BenM]

I have a 67 W200, stock NP 435 4 speed manual, hydraulic clutch. I built a 360 for additional stroke. Because the 360 is externally balanced, I had to use a 360 flywheel with the stock 1967 ring gear.

The 360 flywheel is thicker than the stock flywheel for the 1967 internal balanced 318. I had a machine shop use a plasma cutter to cut out the front of the stock 1967 bell housing to fit the 360 flywheel.

No matter what I do, eventually I end up with the clutch pedal to the floor for every shift and grinding gears in the trans. In 10000 miles, I have made lots of slave cylinder rod adjustments. I have bled and rebled. I been thru several slave cylinders and clutch masters. I have replaced the line and fittings. I have tested for clutch slip and found none. Every time I think the problem has gone away, it comes back.

At this point, I think that the stock bell with the 360 flywheel has created some strange geometry with the clutch fork. I think that perhaps this is causing my problem.

If I built an internally balanced motor and went back to the stock flywheel and an uncut bell housing, do you think my clutch problems would go away?
Thanks,
Ben

[712edf]

If I am following you correctly, you are having problems getting the disk far enough away from the flywheel when you press the pedal, correct?

Would a different lenght fork change the geometry enough to matter? What about a different M/C, as far as bore goes? I do believe your solution lies within the scope of "geometry".

Bucky

[BenM]

clutch problems

Yes, I am have problems getting the disk far enough away from the flywheel when I shift. I read that the MC for the 60-66 town wagon had a longer stroke. I installed one. The problem did go away for a time, but has again returned. Is there a master cylinder or shorter fork that you would recommend?
Thanks,
Ben

[Gordon Maney]

Yes, I am have problems getting the disk far enough away from the flywheel when I shift. I read that the MC for the 60-66 town wagon had a longer stroke. I installed one. The problem did go away for a time, but has again returned. Is there a master cylinder or shorter fork that you would recommend?
Thanks,
Ben

There is a key phrase in your reply. ....did go away for a time....

Everything was good — for a time — until.... what?

My first assumption is that if it worked for a time [how long, by the way?] then all your geometry is good. It suggests a hydraulics performance issue, perhaps even air in the system you might resolve through bleeding.

Any guess as to what could have changed in that time? Are all these hydraulic parts new? As in brand new?

[BenM]

I thought I used all new parts. How could air get in the system over time, even if i bled the system and it worked right for a few months? If air is getting into the system thru low quality parts, which brand should I buy?
Thanks,
Ben

[Hobcobble]

http://www.dodgeclassictrucks.com/newretroparts.html
New & remfg'd clutch master & slave cylinders are marginal in
their overall quality & performance. The link above is for
stainless sleeved M/C's. They aren't cheap. If you're using
a flywheel from a non-hydraulic [post '68] clutch engine, your
stand-off from the crank might be putting the flywheel far
enough rearward as to not allow the pressure plate to release
the disc completely. There has been a lengthy discussion on
installing a 360 into a '65 D100 over on one of the Sweptline
websites.....
www.dodgesweptline.org
John

[Gordon Maney]

I thought I used all new parts. How could air get in the system over time, even if i bled the system and it worked right for a few months? If air is getting into the system thru low quality parts, which brand should I buy?
Thanks,
Ben

Your questions are good. I am just brainstorming. It is meaningful that it did work for a while. I am not saying you used bad parts.

In such circumstances, one is forced to consider ideas that seem unlikely, because you must explore every avenue.

[Joe Flo]

When you pull the master and the slave cylinder apart, what are you finding? Could it be the type of brake fluid you are using? Could it be contaminated?