1968 W200 progress

[HAWAIICO]

All:
Wanted to share progress on the w200. Now stripped to frame, ready to sand blast and paint. I've been at it a year with two weddings, barn repair house stem wall and repipe drain repair. Now looking for best way to treat and paint bare metal frame, front & rear diffs.
Thanks for looking, Bob

[Doc Dave]

Bob,
Welcome.
Are you in a dry part of California or a damp part? I live in the humid southeast U.S. coast, and what I do is when I have a part I have blasted (if I can't paint it within an hour or so) I apply Picklex- 20. THis buys me time and prevents the humid air in my shop from causing surface rust. Parts can last for quite awhile like this with no rusting. It leaves a thin coating of iron phosphate I believe as far as how it works.

How I paint is thus:
For frames, springs, TC, etc (heavy iron or steel parts)
PPG epoxy primer, then
PPG urethane.

If is sheet metal and it is a little rough and I want to smooth it, I use the 2k Hi build primer that can be sanded. I use this after the epoxy primer.

If you are going to the trouble of sandblasting, which is the best way, do not take a short cut then and use POR-15. POR is o.k. if you can't afford or have time to blast, but it is not as good as blasted metal, epoxy primer, urethane top coat.

I would suggest going in to a PPG or DuPont store and making small talk with the people there. See if they are interested in helping you. IN my case, the PPG people were a little more friendly toward hobbyists like myself, but all areas are different.

One other thing. I font of knowledge is at:
www.autobodystore.com

THis is where I get my paint guns and other body work supplies, as well as learning techniques.

[HAWAIICO]

Updated pics

http://rides.webshots.com/album/578388712ucRsnp

Build a frame dolly to sand blast and move around in shop.