Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

New to me 1961 W300

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • New to me 1961 W300

    Hi all,

    I'm very excited to take delivery of a 1961 W300 in a couple days.

    This is my first power wagon and I can't wait to see it in person!

    I'm already learning a lot by reading this forum and will no doubt have some questions for the group.

    I'm very interested in fitting a LU2 PTO winch - but believe I'll need to obtain all of the parts to do so.
    Attached Files

  • #2
    That is a great looking truck — a great find for find for you.

    That is my favorite front end, the one with four headlights.

    Welcome to the group! We look forward to learning more about your truck.
    Power Wagon Advertiser monthly magazine, editor & publisher.


    Why is it that the inside of old truck cabs smell so good?

    Comment


    • #3
      I had a 65 w300 sold it about 5-6 years ago. Have a 69 W300 now the w300 are great trucks and that one you have looks to be in nice condition.

      Comment


      • #4
        WOW, Very Nice!
        I drive a DODGE, not a ram!

        Thanks,
        Will
        WAWII.com

        1946 WDX Power Wagon - "Missouri Mule"
        1953 M37 - "Frankenstein"
        1993 Jeep YJ - "Will Power"
        1984 Dodge Ramcharger - "2014 Ramcharger"
        2006 3500 DRW 4WD Mega Cab - "Power Wagon Hauler"

        Comment


        • #5
          It's Here!

          So the W300 (1961) arrived today.

          I've played with it a bit and here are my first observations:

          1.) Very cool. This thing is big. Nice stance.
          2.) Pretty good shape overall. There is rust but nothing too bad.
          3.) Steering - certainly not power assist. But also quite a lot of play while driving. I'm not used to that - is it normal or do I need to make some adjustments?
          4.) Suspension - fairly "springy". If you hit a bump - this thing bounces. Seems like it would benefit from some new shocks.
          5.) Lights - it might be my imagination, but I think I lost a lot of power while driving when I turned on the lights. I turned them back off quickly so I could investigate further. Has anyone else encountered this issue?
          6.) Ignition - takes a bit of convincing to fire up. Probably a mix of my ignorance with the old engine (318 poly, manual choke, 4 bbl carb.) and needing a good tune-up.
          7.) Brakes - gotta step pretty hard to slow this beast down. I'm assuming at a minimum the brakes need to be adjusted.
          8.) Driving - short trip to the gas station (3 miles) and then to Lowes (5 miles). So less than 20 miles. Doesn't seem to need 1st gear (I'm assuming that's for hard work). Shifts nicely and I got up to about 60mph. A little bit exciting with the play in the steering and brakes - need to drive quite a bit differently than normal.
          Attached Files

          Comment


          • #6
            [QUOTE=rjstick;103401]
            3.) Steering - certainly not power assist. But also quite a lot of play while driving. I'm not used to that - is it normal or do I need to make some adjustments?
            No, the play in the steering is not normal. It could be that the steering gear needs to be adjusted. It could also be that you have some loose steering linkage parts or possibly play in the steering knuckle bearings, although that is less likely.

            5.) Lights - it might be my imagination, but I think I lost a lot of power while driving when I turned on the lights. I turned them back off quickly so I could investigate further. Has anyone else encountered this issue?
            It must have a charging system problem. That is not normal.

            7.) Brakes - gotta step pretty hard to slow this beast down. I'm assuming at a minimum the brakes need to be adjusted.
            It would be good to inspect, bleed, and adjust the brakes.
            Power Wagon Advertiser monthly magazine, editor & publisher.


            Why is it that the inside of old truck cabs smell so good?

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by rjstick View Post
              3.) Steering - certainly not power assist. But also quite a lot of play while driving. I'm not used to that - is it normal or do I need to make some adjustments?
              That is pretty normal, but just because they are all worn out... The steering box is not adjustable (without ruining the worm gear), so check all the other wear items first. I know a machinist who rebuilds Sweptline steering boxes if you end up needing that.

              Beautiful truck, by the way!

              Comment


              • #8
                Brakes may just need adjustment but they are drum brakes so do not stop as quick as disc. Now that the 1st ride excitement is over you need to put the truck in the garage and do the basics checks (brakes steering) and tune up points plugs, wires and so on.
                60 mph is speeding for a w300 I do not drive more then about 50. Most 1 ton and above do not have rear shocks.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by demulsion View Post
                  The steering box is not adjustable (without ruining the worm gear)
                  It is not clear to me why you would say that.
                  Power Wagon Advertiser monthly magazine, editor & publisher.


                  Why is it that the inside of old truck cabs smell so good?

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Thanks all. I will indeed now look to normal maintenance and wear items. I've already located some new shocks that look stock - so perhaps we'll get them on this weekend.

                    When pulling the wheels - are any of these left hand threaded?

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Left side should be left hand unless PO changed the studs. Also you need to remove the rear axles to pull the brake drums for inspection

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by oldmopar View Post
                        Left side should be left hand unless PO changed the studs. Also you need to remove the rear axles to pull the brake drums for inspection
                        Wow - thanks for the heads up. I thought maybe the left side would be left hand threads.

                        I need to remove the rear axle to check the brake drums? That sounds like overkill to me and a lot more complicated than it needs to be. These trucks must not have brakes done very often?

                        I've never taken off an axle before. Any tips/tricks/hints?

                        I do have a lift but haven't rolled this truck into the bay yet.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Not hard to pull the axle but a few steps involved . You need to remove the cover nuts then remove the axle after that you will need a axle nut socket to remove the nut that holds the drum. You may as well repack the bearings and replace the seals while you are there.

                          Not as hard as it sounds but best to pick up a repair manual to see what is involved.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by Gordon Maney View Post
                            It is not clear to me why you would say that.
                            The pre-load adjuster is, by some, considered to be a one time
                            "set" by the factory..... after which, additional turns inward introduce
                            the risk of ball bearing and worm gear damage. I've come to understand
                            this as one of those "gray area" topics.....
                            John

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by Hobcobble View Post
                              The pre-load adjuster is, by some, considered to be a one time
                              "set" by the factory..... after which, additional turns inward introduce
                              the risk of ball bearing and worm gear damage. I've come to understand
                              this as one of those "gray area" topics.....
                              John
                              By preload adjustment I have to imagine you mean the adjustment of the worm shaft bearings. If that's not what your meaning then perhaps my text to follow will miss the mark!

                              I suppose we have to consider this topic in the context of what happened to most steering gears — most were not ever adjusted, and those that were only had a change in the sector adjustment.

                              A mistake made by some wise to only adjust the sector, when — in fact — the worm needed to be adjusted also. We cannot be too critical of the people who only adjusted the sector because usually that is all that was necessary. The symptom of play in the steering, perceived at the steering wheel — assuming all of our steering linkage is tight — is generally caused by lash in the sector.

                              Procedurally, the sector adjustment is much easier, largely because it only involves a jam nut and an adjusting screw. To adjust the worm preload, you have to have the sector backed way out so it does not influence the worm before you adjust the worm shaft bearing preload.

                              A steering gear that has had proper lubricant and not in some way abused probably can respond well to a sector adjustment. If it is a high mile box that has been run low on lubricant and also abused then bearing cone and cup issues could greatly complicate the situation and also prevent a proper worm shaft bearing preload.

                              The steering gear sector adjustment should occur at the center of the range of motion. That's where the lash will be the least — under normal circumstances. You can learn quite a bit about the box if you make a sector adjustment and then rotate through a full range of motion. If it has has rough spots or it tightens up where it shouldn't, that tells you that you have other problems.

                              In actual practice, unless I had reason to believe the steering box was in pretty bad shape, I would begin with the sector adjustment, evaluate how it turns through its full range of motion, and if that was OK I would test drive. If that solved the problem I would not concern myself with worm shaft bearing preload adjustment. If that did not solve the problem, I would try backing the sector out, adjusting the worm, readjusting the sector, and trying again.

                              search term: steering gear adjustment
                              Last edited by Gordon Maney; 04-30-2014, 08:36 AM. Reason: Steering gear adjustment
                              Power Wagon Advertiser monthly magazine, editor & publisher.


                              Why is it that the inside of old truck cabs smell so good?

                              Comment

                              Working...
                              X