Looking for a good running engine to replace the tired 318 in my '68 W-300. I believe a 360 will also mate up to the trans. Live near Baltimore and don't want to drive too far to get one.
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seems to me that the 318, and 360...
are balanced differently. If you use the 318 it is internal balance, and the 360 needs a different flywheel, flex plate with weights on it...???
Check out what the difference is before you move on an engine and have it cost a bundle to get it to work.
Good luck, maybe someone that really knows can chime in.
DrPepper
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360 Engine
Thanks for the info. I have read where people have replaced the 318 engines with larger engines and was looking for the least expensive way to get my truck back on the road. I guess I better do a lot more research. Maybe the best way is just overhaul what I have.
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you might be surprised...
if you freshen up the 1968 318 and look at the way you drive. A W300 is no Hot Rod so why try to burn rubber? I have installed 4bbl carbs on 318's many times and it will really wake up. But, you have to be smart about it. Keep a "torque" or RV cam in it, see what the RPM range is and stay below 4000 - 5000. The "hot rodders" all want a 750+ cfm "bigger the better" carb, bad idea. Find a ~600 cfm carb with small primary butterflys, Carter WCFB (? if I remember) and you keep the crisp off idle that you like and it opens up the top end that you never had. A lot depends on the manifold you find, that will take some time and looking.
If you want to move up a few years go to AllPar.com and read up on engines. I have an '87 in my '57 TW, (got it with no usable engine) it is not a bolt in, but yours might be a bolt in since the A engines all had very similar mounting and trans attachment. Parts and accessories are more available as you get newer.
Hope this helps, DP
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I have a rebuilt 1968 318 in my M37. IT's bored 30 over and I'm running a Torquer cam and throttle body fuel injection. The enhine runs great and strong.
Re-Powered with a Mopar Small Block (LA) V-8 Specifications:Displacement: 323 cu. in. (318 bored 30 over)Cam: Melling Performance - Duration 278/288 (204/214 @ .050) Lift .422/.444 (MTD-1 WG-1116)Fuel: Affordable Fuel Injection Custom GM TBI Closed Loop System (MoPar TBI Conversion Kit)Ignition: MoPar Performance Electronic Conversion, 35º timing (DCC-3690426)I drive a DODGE, not a ram!
Thanks,
Will
WAWII.com
1946 WDX Power Wagon - "Missouri Mule"
1953 M37 - "Frankenstein"
1993 Jeep YJ - "Will Power"
1984 Dodge Ramcharger - "2014 Ramcharger"
2006 3500 DRW 4WD Mega Cab - "Power Wagon Hauler"
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Have you decided which way you're going to go with the engine? Just my opinion here, but the best way to go is to build the engine to the truck and the way that you plan on using it. Sure, it would be cheaper to swap in a used engine from something else, but whether it would perform any better after that is kind of a coin toss. If you want to run down the highway at 65 or 70 you will want a cam with a sweet spot around 3000 rpm. If you are hauling heavy loads at lower speeds an RV type cam with a sweet spot around 2250 rpm is a better choice. There is no magic component or combination thereof that will work best for everything. If you spend time visualizing the way you want to live with your truck, and then carefully select components based on those needs and desires, you are likely to be satisfied with the outcome.
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