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  • Auto W200?

    Ya'll, how would I go about changing my 66 w200 from a 4spd to an auto?
    I have the auto tranny already...so thats taken care of, I think?
    Someone mentioned to me that I'll have to get a short shaft 727 and a custom drive shaft made...is that true? Thanks,mattc

  • #2
    Yes, it's true.
    I have some photos somewhere, but I'm going out, so when I get back I'll look for them and you'll see from them how to "cut" the cross member.

    Believe it or not, this is how the factory modified early manual trucks, to accept the 727's, they cut the bell housing cross member out of the way, added a flat stock stiffener and then an angle behind that for the short tail shaft 727.
    It wasn't until about 5 years later that they actually had an "automatic trans cross member"!





    Last edited by MoparNorm; 02-01-2009, 10:56 PM.

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    • #3
      wow

      Norm, so the factory really just made it fit by adding some bracing for the shorter shaft.... so the cross member for the push button auto will just need to be cut/braced to fit, find a short shaft, and get a custom pto shaft made, and I'm gravy:? Thanks, mattc

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      • #4
        Yep, they figured there was no sense making a permanent crossmember for a temporary fad like the auto trans....= )
        Anyone tried to order a new car with a manual trans lately?

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        • #5
          Originally posted by MoparNorm View Post
          Anyone tried to order a new car with a manual trans lately?
          Yeah. I'm still waiting for the factory to deliver it.

          Comment


          • #6
            I saw a manual shift car at the Dodge dealer, 2009 Challenger SRT, but I was lacking the $45,000.
            1949 B-1 PW
            1950 B-2 PW
            1965 WM300
            1968 D200 camper special (W200 conversion)
            1970 Challenger RT 383
            1987 Ramcharger 4x4
            1991.5 W250 diesel
            1999 Jeep Cherokee limited 4x4
            2008 Jeep Wrangler Sahara

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            • #7
              parking brake

              I got to thinking about putting my early push button 727... its barking brake is part of the long shaft...luckily its going in a 66....and it has the parking brake seperate!! Lucky me!
              I love it when a plan comes together!

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              • #8
                I love it when a plan comes together![/quote]


                plan...what plan... we don't need no stinkin' plan ;> )

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                • #9
                  this is how to do it...

                  I spoke with Torque Flite Guru Pat Blais, and he hooked me up with all the right parts...if anyone needs parts, he's the man to talk too..plus hes located in Wa. State! mattc

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                  • #10
                    SO, I got the short output shaft and short shaft tailhousing, and now I am wondering about the yoke??? If thats the correct terminology...the piece that connects the driveline to the output shaft. Is the piece that is on my 4spd (currently) going to fit on my new short shaft 727 output??? Spline count? Different from 4spd to auto?? Any thoughts? mattc

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by MoparNorm View Post
                      Yes, it's true.
                      I have some photos somewhere, but I'm going out, so when I get back I'll look for them and you'll see from them how to "cut" the cross member.

                      Believe it or not, this is how the factory modified early manual trucks, to accept the 727's, they cut the bell housing cross member out of the way, added a flat stock stiffener and then an angle behind that for the short tail shaft 727.
                      It wasn't until about 5 years later that they actually had an "automatic trans cross member"!
                      Norm,
                      Are you sure that is a factory cut? Normally, the bell cross member is
                      cut back just before the first spanner bolt holes [4 per side]. The cross
                      member in your pic was cut AT the lower holes [you can see a partial
                      hole at the cut]. The normal add on spanner would have four holes per
                      end and it slid up inside the cut cross member. The spanner in your pic
                      uses one of the factory rivet holes. Additionally, the next rivet up on
                      the cross member frame was removed. As the spring perch is integral
                      to the ends of the bell housing cross member, I would think that the
                      assembly would be weakened at this point. The added tail shaft cross
                      member in the pic does not resemble anything close to the factory
                      bolt in tail shaft cross member. I'm not suggesting that the one in the
                      pic is any less sturdy.... it just isn't factory. I have done this conversion
                      and have another truck that was done at the factory in '62. I can
                      supply pics if anyone is interested.
                      John

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                      • #12
                        what now?

                        SO I looked at the end of my early touqueflite, the one with the parking brake on the end of the tail shaft...and there is no way to hook up the yoke from the TC to the 727....any suggestions? mattc

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by mattc View Post
                          SO I looked at the end of my early touqueflite, the one with the parking brake on the end of the tail shaft...and there is no way to hook up the yoke from the TC to the 727....any suggestions? mattc
                          For early W100 & W200 trucks which used the parking brake drum, it was
                          situated on the transfer case. After this, the parking brakes were made
                          integral with the rear axle drums. Does the rear axle in your W200 use the
                          rear axle drums for parking brakes?..... [I'm assuming so]. Is the earlier
                          LoadFlite tranny a two cable? You should try talking with Jeff Clare up in
                          Vancouver, WA [aka "Jeffc"]. He's the Guru that all the other Guru's get
                          their information from when they're stumped :)
                          John
                          Last edited by Hobcobble; 04-12-2009, 07:47 AM. Reason: wording

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by Hobcobble View Post
                            Norm,
                            Are you sure that is a factory cut? Normally, the bell cross member is
                            cut back just before the first spanner bolt holes [4 per side]. The cross
                            member in your pic was cut AT the lower holes [you can see a partial
                            hole at the cut]. The normal add on spanner would have four holes per
                            end and it slid up inside the cut cross member. The spanner in your pic
                            uses one of the factory rivet holes. Additionally, the next rivet up on
                            the cross member frame was removed. As the spring perch is integral
                            to the ends of the bell housing cross member, I would think that the
                            assembly would be weakened at this point. The added tail shaft cross
                            member in the pic does not resemble anything close to the factory
                            bolt in tail shaft cross member. I'm not suggesting that the one in the
                            pic is any less sturdy.... it just isn't factory. I have done this conversion
                            and have another truck that was done at the factory in '62. I can
                            supply pics if anyone is interested.
                            John
                            Positive. It's on the VIN
                            The first factory cross member truck cuts were CRUDE, with ragged torch marks. This one was a nice clean cut and later (66 and on) had a the bolt in crossmember, you mention, from the factory that was as clean as the original manual trans cross member.
                            By then they figured that the automatic trans "fad" might be permenant....= )

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by MoparNorm View Post
                              Positive. It's on the VIN
                              The first factory cross member truck cuts were CRUDE, with ragged torch marks. This one was a nice clean cut and later (66 and on) had a the bolt in crossmember, you mention, from the factory that was as clean as the original manual trans cross member.
                              By then they figured that the automatic trans "fad" might be permenant....= )
                              Crimeney!.... by removing those factory rivets from that stub
                              and rear spring perch.... you'd think they were trying to discourage
                              the "fad" by a few failures out in the field :) That's interesting
                              the way they did it in your pics....
                              John

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