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Diesel VS. Gas Which would you suggest

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  • KRB64
    replied
    Ah, the leaning tower of power! My first engine (1976 Plymouth Duster) and the second motor I ever rebuilt (right after my 134ci F-head in my CJ-3B). Ah the memories...

    Leave a comment:


  • Gordon Maney
    replied
    Originally posted by rush View Post
    I am looking into the slant six for my M37. A little more hp and higher rpm capability. Only going to be used for trail riding here in the Oregon mountains.
    That is a great idea. I wish more people would use them.

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  • rush
    replied
    I am looking into the slant six for my M37. A little more hp and higher rpm capability. Only going to be used for trail riding here in the Oregon mountains.

    Leave a comment:


  • Jason Mills
    replied
    Originally posted by Bruce in BC View Post
    Instead of 1 quart leaking all over the place you get 1/2 a quart . If you change the filter from the top the oil will not run down your arm and ruin your shirt . But when you slide under the vehicle to replace the drain plug you will sit in the puddle of oil that was only 1/2 cleaned up .

    Bruce
    The voice of experience.. trumps all knowledge gained from the internet

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  • Bruce in BC
    replied
    I think works better is about all you get

    Instead of 1 quart leaking all over the place you get 1/2 a quart . If you change the filter from the top the oil will not run down your arm and ruin your shirt . But when you slide under the vehicle to replace the drain plug you will sit in the puddle of oil that was only 1/2 cleaned up .

    Bruce

    Leave a comment:


  • Jason Mills
    replied
    Originally posted by Jason Mills View Post
    I believe (and may be 100% wrong) that there was a change in oil filters later in the production run, (1976ish) where they were re-designed to prevent the oil from draining back into the oil pan.. AND did not spill all over the place when removed. I read about it on the slant 6 forum, and believe that is the style I installed on my first oil change. I will have to check and see what filter is on the engine and report back.
    The slant 6 filter on the engine in the shop is a Wix 51068, and the earlier engines are listed as a Wix 51515. I believe the 51068 has an additional anti-drain back valve in it that was designed to improve oil pressure at start-up. Next summer will be revealing, as that is when the first oil change will happen. The 51515 that came off the engine when I removed it from the '76 D 200, made a nice mess. I hope the 068 works better!

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  • Jason Mills
    replied
    Originally posted by Bruce in BC View Post
    Remote oil filter . Sure would be less messy than the upside down filter . Kind of makes for a built in spill with the way the stock filter is located .

    BAM
    I believe (and may be 100% wrong) that there was a change in oil filters later in the production run, (1976ish) where they were re-designed to prevent the oil from draining back into the oil pan.. AND did not spill all over the place when removed. I read about it on the slant 6 forum, and believe that is the style I installed on my first oil change. I will have to check and see what filter is on the engine and report back.

    Leave a comment:


  • Bruce in BC
    replied
    I think that is the common solution.

    Remote oil filter . Sure would be less messy than the upside down filter . Kind of makes for a built in spill with the way the stock filter is located .

    BAM

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  • Gordon Maney
    replied
    How about a remote mount that orients it right side up?

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  • Bruce in BC
    replied
    Slant 6 oiling

    Slow to get up to full pressure when you first fire the slopped 6 up . Has something to do with the upside down oil filter . It takes about twice as long to reach full pressure on my slant 6 as it does on my v8 , v6 or my inline 4 .

    Bruce

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  • maineSS
    replied
    What sort of oiling problems is the Slant Six supposed to have? I was told the primary reason for that engine's durability was the oiling system. The 230's top end rpm is limited due to the crankshaft not having a continuous oil circuit, it needs to be cross-drilled for high-rpm service.

    All engines benefit from pre-oiling before startup, An SAE study showed 90-95% of engine wear occurs then, startup equivalent to 500 miles of warm engine wear (study done in the mid 80's, as I recall).

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  • Jason Mills
    replied
    Originally posted by Bruce in BC View Post
    Lets build one
    (1) punch it out to 40 or 60 over bore
    (2) electronic ignition distributer but use a gm controller
    (3) tri Y headers , small tubes tuned for torque , twin pipes with a cross over .
    (4) pre oiler to make up for the problems the stock system has on fire up .
    (5) dump the big dodge alternator and go for a high output small alternator .
    (6) Toss the old starter and install a later model dodge v8 starter
    (7) roller rockers
    (8) if you could afford one a billet cam with roller lifters
    (9) Holley 390 or smaller four barrel , turned sideways to feed the pistons evenly .
    (10 ) after you toss the holley , common rail fuel injection .
    (11) after that a dual overhead cam conversion .
    (12 ) Turbo it

    Some of this stuff is easy to do , the alternator , starter and electronic ignition are pretty much a given .

    Bruce up in sunny BC
    #'s 1-6 sound great to me, for use in a truck, and 7-12 for a street car.. I don't understand why Mopar didn't develop a larger slant 6 in the 275-300 inch range, (like gm & ford) but I guess they didn't need to.

    Leave a comment:


  • Bruce in BC
    replied
    ultimate slant six

    Lets build one
    (1) punch it out to 40 or 60 over bore
    (2) electronic ignition distributer but use a gm controller
    (3) tri Y headers , small tubes tuned for torque , twin pipes with a cross over .
    (4) pre oiler to make up for the problems the stock system has on fire up .
    (5) dump the big dodge alternator and go for a high output small alternator .
    (6) Toss the old starter and install a later model dodge v8 starter
    (7) roller rockers
    (8) if you could afford one a billet cam with roller lifters
    (9) Holley 390 or smaller four barrel , turned sideways to feed the pistons evenly .
    (10 ) after you toss the holley , common rail fuel injection .
    (11) after that a dual overhead cam conversion .
    (12 ) Turbo it

    Some of this stuff is easy to do , the alternator , starter and electronic ignition are pretty much a given .

    Bruce up in sunny BC

    Leave a comment:


  • Jason Mills
    replied
    Originally posted by Ggg6 View Post
    Personally I would favor the 225. It was offered in a HiPo version as well as an aluminum version. Being an undersquare design it had better low RPM torque characteristics than the 230.
    I can't imagine an engine much more undersquare than the 230.. I believe that the 230 has even smaller bore/longer stroke than the 225. To have a 230 with an intake manifold like the 225 would be fun.

    Leave a comment:


  • Ggg6
    replied
    Personally I would favor the 225. It was offered in a HiPo version as well as an aluminum version. Being an undersquare design it had better low RPM torque characteristics than the 230.

    Leave a comment:

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