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M-Series Push Button Multi Switch

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  • #1

    M-Series Push Button Multi Switch

    So I went to a friend's house on Saturday as he called me and asked for some help pulling some axles out of a truck he bought. I didn't ask out of what. I show up and turns out its a 2.5 ton truck and he is pulling the axles for a mud racing truck he is helping his dad build.

    So by the end of the day, we had it looking like this. Kinda made me cry, but we saved as much off of the truck as we could...err as I could.



    But... here is the item that I have the questions about. I snagged it and the pig-tail, but there was an additional pig-tail in the floor of the truck that I snagged also. The additional one has letters that match the letters on the connector pin and is newer than the old harness from the 2.5 ton.

    Here is the switch. My question is... Does this switch have a secondary relay box that it controls or will it handle the amperage of the entire light system it controls and act as the primary switch on its own? I searched the NSN on it and found a wiring schematic but a few of the pin connectors are flip flopped.

    Anyone have any experience with it? I am picking up a Carryall in May and it would be REALLY cool if I could somehow fit this into my Resto-mod as the control switch for the headlights, parking lights and maybe interior and panel lights.

    1942 WC53 Carryall in progress.
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  • #2
    Switch Question?

    I would look for an answer over at www.steelsoldiers.com. There are many Deuce owners over there.

    Good Luck!

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    • #3
      Thanks! Yea, I had done some digging. Turns out the previous owner of this truck pulled the switch out of something much much newer as the switch is still in production but will work as a direct swap to the M35 and supposedly M37 series to replace the 3 lever switch.

      I found some info on it by searching the NSN and the switch is only rated for 20 amps at a range of 9-33 volts. So that means its basically just a fancy switch and not also a relay. I found a PIN diagram that matches the switch also and it has automatic reverse voltage protection internally as well as a delay switched memory for glitchy power interruption or voltage drops due to other power draws or ignition startup draws.

      I think I am going to try and use it as best to its fitment in the truck. For the headlights and panel lights at the very least. The dimmer controls are for just two settings as far as I can tell, high or low. I'm going to mess with it some more and see what I can turn up. Thanks!
      1942 WC53 Carryall in progress.

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      • #4
        Research!

        Before you install the new switch, check the forum for others that have used the new switch.

        I had a 72' AM General M35A2C with the conventional 3 lever switch. I looked at changing over to the new push button switch, but there were problems with the new switch.

        I was very happy with the old school 3 lever switch in the Deuce and I will stay with it in my M37B1.

        The old saying....If it aint broke, don't fix it. Old School Rocks!

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        • #5
          Many have gone for the new fangled switches, (you know, younger folks think push button is COOL) only to get fed up after going through several of them. Most end up going back to the older 3-lever switch or changing to a switch that isn't of military spec. It is a direct replacement for the lever type switch.

          We work on lots of military trucks, haven't seen a push button switch yet that was worth spit.

          By the way, those west coast mirror frames, the hard top, and the exhaust system will bring some good returns, don't trash those items.

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          • #6
            Will any of these "Big Truck" body parts - doors, top, seats, windshield- fit an M37?

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            • #7
              Parts Fit?

              The only parts that I know of that are useful from the M35A2, are the inner windsheild frames, and the soft top.

              Only the inner windsheild frames with the glass are interchangeable. The outer frame on the M37, is diiferent than the M35A2.

              The soft top from the M35A2 can be modified to fit the M37, but it takes some work to make it fit.

              Perhaps Charles might know of other parts that will fit the M37?

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              • #8
                Lots of small parts that are common to the full M series line of that era. Switches, and other electrical stuff. Door lock assemblies, slightly different, but will interchange. One smart thing the military did was to intergrate common parts interchangability of many items.

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                • #9
                  just a little FYI, prior to hooking up those light switches, there should have been a phillips head screw on the back of the switch, make yourself a ground wire and connect the wire to that screw and then ground the switch to the chassis, THEN connect the cannon plug to the switch, then connect the batteries. if you do not ground out the switch prior to supplying the juice to it, every light and i mean all the lights, B.O. and service lights will come on and then blow all the light bulbs. i seen this first hand back in 03 when i was in Iraq and those switches started coming in by the pallet and everybody wanted them in thier trucks and alot of people did not read the instructions. hope this helps

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