V8 conversion by uglytruckling help - new user

[Todd M]

I understand that there must be several threads on this issue but can not find them. Can someone point me in the correct direction. I am trying to find the pitfalls on this kit before I start going down the road. Or if there are any easier suggests than what are in the directions.

I am trying to make my 1948 into a daily driver and have the kits from Uglytruckling.

Willing to accept any and all help/advice.

Todd

[Desoto61]

Some of the "off the shelf" parts the kits use I think are getting harder to find, but I only have some of the pieces of the kit as I did a Cummins conversion.

There is a search feature, but may only be available to members and magazine subscribers, either of which is worth doing. Otherwise specific problems are going to depend on what parts you chose to go along with the kit as far as transmission and such. What is the specifics of your plan?

[Todd M]

Desoto61
Thanks. My specific plans are fairly loose at the moment. I was hoping to place a 360 in the vehicle and use the original hydraulic winch. If I can not find the short np435 with dual windows I will forgo the winch and install an electric one. If I forgo the hydraulic winch I have not figured out if I could use a different transfer case that would make it more road worthy.

I have read your build over a couple of days and would love to put a diesel in but that exceeds my abilities. Very nice truck.

[Matthew Welcher PWA]

The front motor mount plate that comes with the kit is awkward to use, the rear mounts are not terrible but it does give your intermediate driveshaft quite the angle.

I modified the rubber bushings by putting an angle to them. It is much better than nothing by far but I would use a different type of front motor mount system if I were ever to do it again.

[Greg Coffin]

Motor Mounts

I made my own rear mounts, and used a factory wishbone front mount on my 318. The wishbone sits on a 1" hard rubber block, and is bolted to the front cross member. The rear mounts are hard bolted to the bellhousing, and sit on 1/4" rubber pads on the chassis mounts.

I used this system because I wanted the engine to be isolated from any frame twist when I'm off-roading. The Helitool system transmits any twist through the engine mounts.

The angle of the engine matches the transfer case, and the angle on the intermediate shaft is very good. The engines sits higher in the front by about 1", judging by how the crank bolt lines up with the crank hole in the radiator.

The hardest part of all of it was getting the mount for the clutch pedal in the right place, which I missed a little. It should be forward about 1/2". I'll have to open up the slot in the floor board to give it a little more clearance. Otherwise it was a relatively easy installation.

BTW, you mentioned having a factory hydraulic winch. These trucks came with a Braden MU2 shaft driven PTO winch from the factory. If you have a hydraulic winch, it's been modified at some point.

I was thinking about installing a hydraulic drive on my MU2 (driven by the power steering pump), but I'm now planning to swap out the case on my NP435 for one with a PTO on the driver side. I think I will be happier with it in the long run.

Another option might be to install a NP205 (or 201) transfer case with a PTO opening. Then you would have a great transfer case for daily driving, and a PTO driven winch. You would probably have to install a 2 piece PTO shaft and pillow block, but that is not hard to do.

Whatever you do I would recommend staying away from an electric winch. They don't perform nearly as well as PTO or hydraulic winches, and put a LOT of strain on the electrical system. They also change the look of the truck, if that matters to you. Hydraulic winches are a good compromise between PTO and electric, and you can drive an MU2 hydraulically if you want. Though I've heard mixed reviews about do so.

Good luck with your project, and post some pictures soon!

[Todd M]

Greg,
Thanks for keeping me straight. I have reread my post and see my error. All I can say is that I have a million questions before I start this project that I need help with and lost my train of thought. It is not a hydraulic winch I have but the original shaft driven. Sorry for the confusion.

I like your use of the wishbone front mount. I will need to see if it is possible with a 360 and would it eliminate the issue that Iowanogre mentioned above if I use uglytruckling rear mounts. If any fabricating is necessary I would have to rely on my son.

I will also look into the NP205 as my first priority is a daily driver.
Todd

[Desoto61]

If you're going to look at different transfer cases and such you're getting into fabrication, and at that point I'd worry about fitting a new transmission before I worried about a different t-case. The 205 would need a centered rear axle, which is a good modification but more work. Otherwise it's basically the same box as the stock NP200.

The problem with these trucks was not necessarily more power, it's that that power is not very helpful with the stock gearing, which was designed to compensate for the lack of HP. Better axle ratios is the best change, but you're limited with factory axles. Otherwise a transmission with an overdrive or even two is the next best change to get some extra speed out of that V8 power.

Otherwise all the power in the world won't help with stock gearing.

[W_A_Watson_II]

Better axle ratios is the best change, but you're limited with factory axles.

Don't forget larger tires are also as much if not more helpful than changing gears.

[Matthew Welcher PWA]

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[Matthew Welcher PWA]

You can see how that front motor mount works, in regards to power steering pump and also a fuel pump it made it a bear to say the least. With enough time and fabrication it came together well.

[Desoto61]

Don't forget larger tires are also as much if not more helpful than changing gears.

Yes but that's it's own can of worms. Tall bias ply tires are not that common, tall radial tires are usually too wide for the stock rims, though it can and has worked but then they're stupid money. Aftermarket wheels can help with some of that, but that's even more $$$ and other than the VPW conversion wheels (which IMO should be a little wider) you loose the BUDD look.

I have 35" tires and 4.88 gears and even with a 0.69:1 OD 60 is about 2000 rpm, not bad for a gas motor but the diesel is running out of breath. A 38" would only move that up about 5 mph, but costs almost an extra $100 tire and going taller is actually kind of hard without getting way wider that the VPW conversion rim. Technically the 35's are too wide for the VPW rim though it's working fine so far, but I only have a few hundred miles on them.

I'll probably go to 38's at some point, but that's down the road a ways, though the bigger tires do fill up the wheel wells nicer too.

[Todd M]

Thanks for all the help and suggestions. I have also consulted with my mechanic neighbor for several hours and trolling over and under the vehicle and this is my current thought. LS1 engine with an NV4500 transmission, axles will be from from a 4x4 ford super duty. What issues will I have with this set up? Can I still use a PTO for the Braden winch?

Also on a more critical note where is the brake fluid reservoir? Picture. I finally got the engine running but found the brakes to be gone, though I bought them working. I imagine there is a leak and I just want to fill it and get it up the driveway and prevent from creating a pull through garage.

[Matthew Welcher PWA]

The brake fluid fills directly into the master cylinder, which is mounted under neath the cab, slightly. While looking under the hood look down below the steering column and there you will see it. Depending on the master it could be a large hex nut or a square plug. A long funnel with a flexible neck roughly 2 feet or so will make filling this easier.

[Todd M]

Thanks. I thought that was it but talked myself out that would be it. Got it in the garage with some muscle provided by my boys and a neighbor. If I get the brakes working before I take the cab off I will have to give the muscle some lessons in driving a manual. They already have learned what power steering is for after pushing this into the garage.

[Desoto61]

Thanks for all the help and suggestions. I have also consulted with my mechanic neighbor for several hours and trolling over and under the vehicle and this is my current thought. LS1 engine with an NV4500 transmission, axles will be from from a 4x4 ford super duty. What issues will I have with this set up? Can I still use a PTO for the Braden winch?

Can't say I love an LS in a Dodge, but wouldn't be the first, and I get why people do it, just a Mopar thing I guess.

Steering setup will need to be figured out, and because it's steering you need to be careful, you don't want shortcuts in your steering. The frame rails are relatively narrow, so many have issues with clearance on that side, try to do a passenger side starter, it will make life easier.

The PTO should be fine as long as you do a passenger side drop front axle like the original, otherwise you'll have issues getting the PTO shaft forward to the winch.

Otherwise the linkages for the transfer case and e-brake will be interesting.