Tweet
Finally got the Toyota power steering conversion up and running. Went for a cruise, steers easily, but pulls to the left- like it works for Obama. Had the front end alignment checked out, Camber, Caster, & Toe OK. Steering shaft to box angle nowhere near binding. Looks like a valve is stuck in the box, so I'll have to send it out for rebuild, since parts aren't easily available. Other than the Leftward Ho! problem, everything works quite well.
-
-
Rear Steer?
I'm wondering if I'm having a rear-steer effect from the rear axle- looks like the pass side spring isn't centered on the axle pad. Do Dodge springs have a center bolt up thru the spring pack? Would a broken center bolt cause enough axle tube shift under drivetrain load to point the rear axle to the right, thus steering the truck left? I'm going to drop a plumb line from the front and rear axle tubes to the floor on both sides and measure the distance, but I'm wondering if this would only show up when the drivetrain is engaged. The axle would be moving forward and down, so the axletube reaction would be backwards and up on the spring pack. -
Dodges have a bolt vertical through the spring pack that centers the spring pack on the axle housing seat. If the spring pack locator bolt should be centered on the spring seat on the housing from the top and end view - if not, it needs fixed.
Simple fix if problem. Swap in a replacement bolt - just round the hex head enough to match the locator hole on the axle housing spring seat for the missing or rusted out spring pack bolt. Beware, the leaf springs may be under tension b/c the locator bolt broke/rusty - clamp them before playing with them and removing the axle housing u-bolts.Comment
-
By clamping, do you mean with a couple of large C clamps either side of the axle U bolts- never dismounted a leaf spring before. I was planning on jacking up the frame and supporting it at the point where all the weight is off the spring. I suppose it wouldn't hurt to check out the bushings at each end of the leaf, either.Comment
-
The leaf spring will be fine while the axle housing's weight is on the perches. They are not rocket science. Just think it through and understand the springs are heavy.
If the spring locator bolt failed (rusted out/broke), then the spring leaf will want to come apart (depending on rust - could be instantly or never) forcefully once the housing is removed. The spring clips/wraps have 2 purposes (1) limit leafs moving (2) keeping spring pack together in a single pile. If the clips are weak or missing - the bolt is the only thing keeping the pack together. Once that happens - getting the replacement bolt in is tougher. Hence - just clamp it before taking the u-bolts off it. It will save you the hassle of realigning the locator bolt if needs replaced and make it safer to be near if the bolt failed. If the bolt rusted out, take the leafs apart anyway, polish them (flap disc) and grease them. The leafs need to slide on each other to work. If they are too worn - get replacements. VPW sells NOS main leaf for very little $ OR. Get a local spring shop to price making up a set for you with you doing the install OR DIY with a mix and match 2" wide M37/PW/Jeep M38/CJ (CJ2-8) springs to a good combo that works.
And yes, a couple big c clamps would do nicely.Comment
-
I have used a fine thread 3/8 allen bolt as a center bolt in spring packs with good success... easy to tighten up too..Comment
-
Apparently VPW has run out of NOS spring packs for FFPW, so I'll have to see what the local trade can do- one has been in business for 158 years, so they may have something on the shelf.Comment
-
Whoa! When did you change from replacing the locator bolt to getting new spring packs? I was just pointing out it could be a good time to rebuild/replace the packs while doing the bolt an d the axle housing is out of the way. I never would change/modify them unless there was a reason (worn, insufficient height, increase weight of truck load/components ect).
Definitely do a search on replacing the spring bushings to bone up on the effort to get the worn/rusty buggers out can be.
I used a big Harbor Freight ball joint press (c-clamp) to press the pivot grease bolts out and then to press out the bushings. I did not notice the ride improve with new bushings oddly enough.Comment
-
steve fowler has new springs
hes had repro springs made. supposedly good stuff. check the power wagon page archivesComment
-
Did some more digging- think I've found the problem. The front axle is ~1" further back on the driver side than the passenger side (which appears to be correctly located). Looks like a broken center bolt.Comment
-
I was just reading an article about the deaths caused by Toyota steering parts and the 15 year cover-up by Toyota. They are now being sued.
Are you using any toyota steering arms, or just the box?Comment
-
I'm using a very beefy aftermarket pitman arm made by All Pro Offroad- makes the Dodge pitman look spindly by comparision. Going to fab up a replacement draglink from a M37 link and use M37 ballstuds on a new All Pro pitman and stock steering arm- the M37 link makes the PW link look like a 98-lb weakling.Comment
-
Cool!
Is there a web page for them?Comment
-
Good catch, Norm- it's not an All-Pro arm, it's a Trail Gear. I had ordered an All-Pro 1st, but sent it back. Web site URL is www.trail-gear.com/samy-steering.html - the arm is the beefed-up stock replacement (PN 130005-1), NOT the flat one, because you need the bend to clear the PS box retainer bolts. It's close, but you have enough room to use the flat and lockwasher with a grade 8 bolt in the lower rear hole where the pitman crosses, and enough room to get a puller in- unlike the Saginaw box. I bored out the tapered hole in the end and pressfit & welded a PW ballstud in. Where have you seen the Toyota lawsuit?Comment
-
It took me a while to relocate it as all print media has vanished???
This was on NBC
KNBC
Warning! It's a bandwidth hog and may only load as audio.Comment
Comment