Better Brake Line Flaring

[maineSS]

Years ago, I bought the common bar-type double flare tool from KD tools (around $40), and used it a number of times. [I] had at best a 50% success rate now matter how carefully I prepped the tube and set up the tool. Nothing is more frustating than spending time bending up the perfect line only to have it ruined by a lopsided or non-sealing flare that looked OK but fails the pressure test.

I had to make up two return lines on my recent Spin-On oil filter project because of this, so I did some Net searching for a better tool at a reasonable price. There are tools in the $5-700+ range that claim perfect results every time, most of us can't justify that outlay for an occasional use.

I came across a writeup at www.redrubbergrease.com entitled "A Better Way to Make Perfect Clutch or Brake Double Flare Lines". It details the use of a different type of flaring tool that can be used under the vehicle that solves many of the problems inherent in the standard bar-type tool, but didn't identify the tool's manufacturer or retailer info.

After a long search, I found it- the ATD 5481 Inline Flaring Kit (Fractional Sizes). I ordered it thru Car Quest, and paid $55, but it's also available for less thru Web-based tool companies (around $30).

Pic #1 shows the tool in the case. I was surprised that a 3/16" Allen wrench wasn't included, as it's needed to tighten up the split base. You also need to provide a 7/8" open or box end wrench and a 9/16" open/box end wrench to hold the arbor and turn the flaring screw.

Pic #2 shows an "exploded view" of the base, die, arbor, and flaring screw, Left to Right order.

Pic #3 shows the die in the arbor, this is one of the secrets to a better flare.

To be continued...

[W_A_Watson_II]

WOW, You and I both have issues whit the "standard" double flair tool. On 1/4" lines, I'm probably better than 75". but on 3/16" lines I'm less than 30%. I hope this is a much better solution, if so I'll be buying it!

[CSCameron]

Let's see some flares with this tool!

[Bob2]

Let's see some flares with this tool!

Yes, we need to see some actual work, and while I am at it the photos 1 & 2 could be focused a little better, use a white background.

I know whine, whine but hey we all appreciate the knowledge.

Happy Thanksgiving
Bob2

[maineSS]

The camera I use is a digtal autofocus Canon, I take multiple shots and use the best one. The flash is supposedly auto-adjusting, can't be manually adjusted for brightness. I can go to manual focus, that takes a lot more time for each shot. I guess the ultimate answer would be a different camera, as it's not really meant for the closeup shots in low light I often end up doing.

Moving on with the tool description, Pic #4 shows the split base and a 3/16" Allen wrench needed to tighten the base on the brake line. Notice that it has about twice the thickness of a bar-type tool, this makes it much less likely for the line to slip downward under the pressure of the flaring operation.

Pics #5-6 are from an old Motor Manual, it details an impact flaring tool that also made good flares. There are three things that need to happen, (1): the tube needs to be concentric with the flaring screw, (2): the die needs to stay level on the end of the tube AND be concentric with the flaring screw, and (3): the tube needs to be held straight and with enough grip area to prevent slipping. The bar-type tools often require way too much clamping to prevent slip, and end up with impressed marks that are an open invitation to stress cracks. (Continued..)

[maineSS]

Moving on, Pic #7 shows the finishing operation of the impact flare tool. I've been looking for one of these, so far no luck.

There is also a British tool made by Moprod that supposedly works quite well, it uses a screw-type operation, but is only available in 3/16" size. It also follows the same 3 principles of good flaring practice, I'll post the link I have later.

I"ve been playing around with the ATD tool, and found that lubing the flare screw threads and the split base threads make quite a difference in operational ease. You need to be very careful NOT to get any type of petroleum-base grease/oil into brake systems, as it attacks the seals and sets the stage for brake failure. I used a small amount of Never Seize on the threads, I'll remove this later with brake cleaner and go to rubber grease when I start doing brake line work. So far, my results have been much more consistent, and the tube is not marked up. You do need to tighten down the base til it both pieces touch. The directions on the Red Rubber Grease site are pretty good, follow them, and you'll have a good start. I'll post some pics of flares later.

[maineSS]

I mentioned a British tool known as the "Moprod" (MOtor PRODucts), some links: http://www.intergerspin.co.uk/brakeflare.htm (you may have to Google this link) and http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/s...t=24923&page=2 (see instruction sheet posted by Gavuk). British car brake line is 3/16", a size which is more difficult to flare with a bar tool due to the difficulty of keeping the die straight on the end of the tube during the 1st flare "crush" operation. This tool supposedly works well, note that it eliminates any movement between the die and the flaring screw by making them one piece.

There is a lever-operated turret press tool available thru Eastwood in the $220 range, but it needs to be held in a securely mounted vice. The next step up are hydraulic tools by Mastercool and Imperial Eastman, these are the $5-700 models.

Pic #8 shows two lopsided 1st stage "crushes" and three bad flares done with an Autozone bar tool. Note the pinch marks left on the tube. Bar-type tools vary wildly in quality, some work OK, others... never.

Pic#9 shows a pre-formed flare vs the ATD tool flare on coated tube. You have to sand off the coating before flaring, or the tube will slip down. The ATD flare is smaller in dia than than the pre-formed one, this is also true of all the bar-type tool flares I've made.

Pic #10 shows a pinch mark on the right side of the tube made by the edge of the bar when it was tightened sufficiently to prevent slip. You often see two vertical marks in the tube where the bars meet, this is caused by excessive clamping needed because of insufficient tube gripping surface of the bars. The tools that don't tear up the tube surface seem to have at least 1" of depth, you won't see that on bar-type tools.

It would be a big step forward if tool makers would stop making endless copies of the bar design, and start looking at the ATD/Moprod/Impact approach. These should cost the same or less in mass-production, and would have many more satisfied customers.

[Charles Talbert]

Well don't waste your time and $$ on that MasterCool hydraulic set up. We've had 2 of them, the absolute nearest nothing I ever owned; and got 0 support from them after we figured out that the issue was the dies that were dirt cheap and no good at all. They will crush the tubing out of round every time ruining it.

[maineSS]

Sometimes cubic dollars aren't the answer- what flaring tool have you had consistently good results with? You'd think with an operation like brake line flaring liability concerns would keep junk tools off the market...

[W_A_Watson_II]

So what's the verdict on the ATD 5481 Inline Flaring Kit?

[Doc Dave]

Down around $30 at the link's site.
If it turns out to be a good tool, I will get it.

http://www.stockwiseauto.com/product...ucts_id/314991

[maineSS]

I cut the flare off one of the filter return lines that didn't seal — using a jeweler's hacksaw — prepped it with a file, and re-flared it with the ATD tool. It doesn't leak now, so my KD flare tool is now officially retired.

However, you do have to be careful of one thing- make sure the die isn't placed in backwards (with the pin facing towards the flare screw). I forgot, and ended up bending the pin over. It takes 5-6 weeks to get a replacement thru Car Quest, maybe faster through other suppliers. So you need to remember two things- (1) put the flare nut on the tube facing the right way, and (2), put the die on the tube, then screw the arbor onto the base. Dropping the die into the arbor is likely to give you an instant replay of my experience....

[maineSS]

I ran across a thread at g503.com that identified the impact flaring tool I referred to earlier- it's the Kent-Moore J-1280. There's some good photos and info at http://www.g503.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=48&t=139838 (you may have to Google this link).

I also came across a silicone grease carried by NAPA that's safe for brake systems that I'm going to try as a lube for my ATD tool. It's Syl-Glyde- PN 765-1351, and is easier to find locally than red rubber grease. I'll report back on how it works out.

[maineSS]

I ran across a review of the MasterCool Hydraulic flaring tool at Amazon, there were a couple critical reviews by "JP" and "Bugeye" that pointed out a number of problems prospective buyers should consider.

"Bugeye" noted that he only got 4 flares in stainless steel line before the dies were trashed, because they are powder metal (sintered), not tool steel. This is likely why Charles had problems, it would be interesting to hear if he was also using SS line. Google "MasterCool Hydraulic Flaring Tool" and read the negative review by "JP", it's entertaining, and could save you money.

Based on JP's recommendation, I ordered a Lock Technology Multi Flaring Gun 3000B, it should land here next week, I'll try it out and report back. It makes push-connect, ISO, single, and double SAE flares in 3/16, 1/4, 5/16, and 3/8 sizes-in steel AND stainless. It just went out of production, unfortunately, but is still available from some internet tool sellers. It usually retails for $200+, but I got the last one from Auto Tool World for $170.

Pics #1 and #2 show some handheld flare tools from Sealy (a British firm). The Brits use 3/16", so they can't be used on the PW, but they use the same rotating die as the Moprod unit did to "iron" the flare as its being formed. It's unfortunate some tool firm can't produce a similar unit for US brake line sizes, instead of endless junky bar/clamp tools, or stupidly expensive tools that can't be used on the vehicle, and have a hundred dies you'll never use...

[Desoto61]

I have the Eastwood unit you mentioned a while back, and I'll agree that while it is very nice and works well on steel and stainless, it can't be used on vehicle, which does make things challenging.