80 gal compressor question

[712edf]

I have almost acquired this. 80 gal Manchester tank, Quincy compressor & (inoperable) GE 3 hp 115V single phase 1725RPM motor.

The tank was made in 1980, appears fine, no rust or damage. Compressor rotates & doesn't appear to have any issues.

What do ya'll recommend I do for powerplant?
(A) Attempt to have this GE motor repaired (condition unknown, but a previous owner has started to disassemble it.
(B) Just stick another electric motor on there. If so what size/type?
(C) Install a gas engine, and if so (again) what size/type?

I'm leaning towards a gas engine, simply because I'd like to mount this monster on the flatbed of my W600.

I'd get all new gauges & pressure release valve.

Suggestions/input
Thanks,
Bucky

[712edf]

I will add that I really don't need this compressor, nor have a shop for it (my dad's shop doesn't have 220V), but can get it for virtually next to nothing.

[Ron in Indiana]

I'll take a crack at it. You could have the motor checked out for a few bucks I'm sure. They can tell you what it may cost to repair it. A new 3 horse motor isn't going to come cheap. It's going to take a fair sized gas engine to turn that and have a shut down or blow off once the tank is full $$$. That size compressor is a little overkill on your truck isn't it? If you really have no need for it how does it make sense to pour money in it? An alternative would be to pick it up cheap and sell it on Craigslist or free ad paper??? Just my 2 cents.

[712edf]

Thanks,
Maybe I'm starting to think like our Fed government. Buy something then create a need for it..... heck most of us don't need such a compressor, nor do we need our PW's. I probably don't need my W600, but I have it.
I have no problem investing $ into something as long as the final value isn't less than what it'd take to get it there. I've had white elephants in the past & know not to go there again.


I am not certain that the motor on it is original to it. Nor am I in the know as to what amperage requirements are needed to run this in a home shop.

[oldmopar]

Since you are looking to recycle some older equipment, maybe place a want ad or just try to search for a used operating compressor motor maybe someone has one with a bad tank they no longer need.

[Gsmith]

I see data plates, get the model number and contact Quincy and they should be able to tell you what size motor it takes. Or maybe that info is on the data plates already? Don't forget RPM matters also. Motor people should be able to tell you the amperage requirement.

[Desoto61]

Is it 115 or 220? The first post said 115, but you talk about 220, which on a compressor that size is what I would expect.

A good rule of thumb for motors is about 5 amps per running HP IIRC. My 7.5 HP compressor has about a 35A running load and needs a 50A circuit to support the startup load. That's 220 single phase.

Since you want to stay on the cheap I'd have someone check out the motor you have first. Based on the quote you can then determine your course of action. A quality electric motor of equivalent size and speed will not be cheap.

If you do shop for a new motor make sure you determine running HP and not peak. The manufacturers used to talk peak power when running power is the important number.

If you swap to a gas engine you will need to make sure the pump has unloading valves in the head and install a whip valve in the air system. You can take out the pressure switch if you want, it won't do anything when running on gas. Not sure about the pump relief lines, probably get capped or run to a manual valve maybe?

[Matthew Ziegler]

Motor

If you have the cover that went over the wiring on that motor, there's usually a diagram in there that will show you how to wire it for 110, 220, 208 230 etc. if not just google the make and model, it's usually color coded or numbered wires.

[Gordon Maney]

That Quincy pump is the best compressor you could buy, from all that I know.

[712edf]

I see data plates, get the model number and contact Quincy and they should be able to tell you what size motor it takes. Or maybe that info is on the data plates already? Don't forget RPM matters also. Motor people should be able to tell you the amperage requirement.

I will see what they say. I do NOT think the motor on it is original. I suspect the original was 220V.
If this motor isn't totally wrong for the pump, then I'd look into having it repaired. But if Quincy says the pump calls for something bigger or different RPM, then I will weigh my options of new electric vs gas.
Thanks,
Bucky

[712edf]

That Quincy pump is the best compressor you could buy, from all that I know.

My dad speaks highly of Quincy pumps. He worked in PVC pipe manufacturing plants for 45 years, where continuous air supply is needed for all the various pneumatic machinery.

I acquired this just for doing some advertising work (placing ads on craigslist) for the owner. He acquired it when a tenant abandoned a property after falling 12 mths behind on rent.

After doing some cleaning, this pump doesnt appear to have ever been opened up. The factory paint is undisturbed. The only thing that looks to have been messed with, is the electric motor.

Bucky

[Desoto61]

Check out Eaton compressor if you decide to go gas. They have both the whip valve and pilot valve assemblies. Personally I think there one of the best compressors out there for the money, but I'm kind of biased.

As for motors naturally you can use either speed, it might just require a different pully assembly to keep the pump speed correct. The benefit of these older pumps is that they run nice and slow which is easy on the parts. Being a Quincy you can still most likely still get any of the head valve parts should they be necessary, which would be the most likely wear parts unless it was very poorly maintained.

You might also want to verify with Quincy what they recommend for lubrication, since changing the oil should be high on your list of things to do.

[712edf]

This most likely came with a 5hp 220V or 208-230V motor.
Quincy has their own SAE30 compressor oil they recommend. This pump is designed with hydraulic unloaders so pump is not under a load until oil pressure comes up.
Pump has min & max RPM range of 400-900.

[Charles Talbert]

My first idea is to check out the pump output, or SCFM it is capable of furnishing. The fact it only has a 3 HP motor makes me wonder about its real capability. Compressors of that size and tank capacity typically run 5 HP or larger motors. Most common for an 80 gallon tank is a 7.5 HP. With some older units, they just don't put out the air volume you would think for their physical size. That would be my first and utmost concern; I wouldn't spend a dime on a compressor of that size unless it was capable of at least 20-25 SCFM @ 175 PSI. You can get stuck with a dinosaur that won't do much.

[712edf]

Charles,
Based on what I have learned, this 3 hp GE motor is not original. These 325 pumps came with 5 & 7.5 hp motors.

The mounting slide base was moved from it's original position & welded in a new position, just to get the pulley to line up with the flywheel. Funny thing is, the pulley was on backwards. Had they removed the pulley & installed it correctly, it would have lined up just fine.

The mounting slide base, which is original, is for a 184T frame motor.

I believe with a 5 hp motor, output is 20 SCFM @ 175 PSI

I have a line on a Dayton 5 hp 230V 184T frame motor locally. I probably will use this for my initial motor and will go the gas route further down the road.

As an aside, I have looked at ALOT of new air compressors lately. And they mostly look like cheap foreign made junk. The high dollar Ingersoll-Rand pumps are made in India. I've seen sandcastles with better looking workmanship. The castings are all jagged. They look like used pumps with a quicky black paint job.

I will gamble on this dinosaur instead, as my needs aren't excessive.
thanks,
Bucky