Tool for opening u-joints

[Jimmy]

Has anybody tried one of the tools to open U-joints. I am trying to get my winch drive shaft off w/o damaging them. They are tight. I don't think I can drive them off with a punch w/o destroying them. Besides, it is hard to do with all the dirt falling in your eyes and all.

[Gordon Maney]

Have you ever replaced universal joints of the sort that you find on your several drive shaft ends?

[Jimmy]

Yes, I replaced lots of ujoints in a former life, but always with hammer and socket. I don't remember having to take the ujoint apart under the car, always on the bench. In this case the front yoke is seized to the winch input shaft.

[Gordon Maney]

When I was a mechanic at an IH truck dealership, I recall disassembling drive shaft u-joints on truck tractors with all in place. There was no bolt connection. Instead of a vice or press, you used a small bottle jack.

You may have to disconnect the shaft from the PTO, unbolt the winch, and get the entire heavy mess to a bench to get that yoke loose from the winch input shaft, if you think you can't get the yoke loose with the winch in place.

How about some heat?

[Jimmy]

I am a little hesitant to put the heat to it because I think the grease will catch fire. I am also a little hesitant to beat it to hard while it is supported by the winch bearings. I am also a little scared to try to work the winch off with the drive shaft attached. I don't want to bend it.

I am going to try to make a little press out of a c-clamp and put some pressure on it, try whacking it a little, and if that doesn't work heat it a little. I think I won't have to whack it so hard and will probably need very little heat.

[Gordon Maney]

Originally posted by Jimmy
Yes, I replaced lots of u-joints in a former life, but always with hammer and socket. I don't remember having to take the u-joint apart under the car, always on the bench. In this case the front yoke is seized to the winch input shaft.

Although the hammer approach works, I would discourage it. Instead, use a large bench vise. It works much better, gives you control over the process, and also holds the work.

[Gordon Maney]

Originally posted by Jimmy
I am a little hesitant to put the heat to it because I think the grease will catch fire. I am also a little hesitant to beat it to hard while it is supported by the winch bearings. I am also a little scared to try to work the winch off with the drive shaft attached. I don't want to bend it.

I am going to try to make a little press out of a c-clamp and put some pressure on it, try whacking it a little, and if that doesn't work heat it a little. I think I won't have to whack it so hard and will probably need very little heat.

You say the yoke is seized to the winch input shaft. I take it that you mean as a result of the presence of rust. All the while we are thinking about this and living our daily lives, let's be repeatedly putting penetrating oil on that yoke.

The first one I removed many years ago was so bad that I soaked it daily for about two weeks and then was able to get in the space at the end of the yoke with the flat end of a bar and move it off.