Chop saws

[Gordon Maney]

I think I will buy a chop saw that I can use to cut metal studs, and then I will have it for other stuff. Let us rationalize together.

Any suggestions as to brand or model for greatest versatility or quality?

Discuss....

[Ron in Indiana]

Are you looking to cut other metals after you finish with the metal studs? I have a B&D chop saw that has a few years on it and has held up well for general cutting in the shop. As with anything you get what you pay for. Milwaukee has a good one and they have a really cool hand held circular saw that cuts structural steel but doesn't blow chips or heat the material. It's something to see in action, I didn't believe the rep when he told me what it did. After he made the cut which was relatively quiet besides it made a remarkably smooth cut. I don't know if this is good for steel studs but wanted to let you know what's out there. Where are you using metal studs if I may ask?

[HWooldridge]

I have a B&D Industrial 14" that is over 20 years old and has cut thousands of pieces - still works like a charm and may outlive me. In the small portable models, I think any name brand 14" is a good choice - the 12" models don't seem to be as durable plus the blades are shorter lived and about the same price as the bigger ones.

The right blade is important also and it has been my experience that the thinner ones (1/8-5/64) are better in these saws. The thicker blades are designed for and work better in the bigger bench saws, like the Kalamazoo models.

[Gordon Maney]

Are you looking to cut other metals after you finish with the metal studs? I have a B&D chop saw that has a few years on it and has held up well for general cutting in the shop. As with anything you get what you pay for. Milwaukee has a good one and they have a really cool hand held circular saw that cuts structural steel but doesn't blow chips or heat the material. It's something to see in action, I didn't believe the rep when he told me what it did. After he made the cut which was relatively quiet besides it made a remarkably smooth cut. I don't know if this is good for steel studs but wanted to let you know what's out there. Where are you using metal studs if I may ask?

I like Milwaukee power tools. I have a number of them.

I am going to frame up a ceiling with steel studs, to lower a ceiling that had too many layers to tear off.

[pieter]

Milwaukee has a good one and they have a really cool hand held circular saw that cuts structural steel but doesn't blow chips or heat the material. It's something to see in action, I didn't believe the rep when he told me what it did. After he made the cut which was relatively quiet besides it made a remarkably smooth cut.

hey Ron,
any idea on the name or model of this fancy dancy device?

Pieter

[Ron in Indiana]

try this www.mil-electric-tool.com it really is a cool saw and they have video of it cutting. I don't know the price. It's under circular saws, 8" metal cutting

[Sickcall]

I can't stand the noise and mess of a chop saw! I use a portable bad saw made by Milkwaukee. I can usually cut anything with it that fits into a chop saw, and get better cuts. They do cost more, somewhere just under $375. If you tried one you would be a convert as I am.

[pieter]

That sure does look pretty nifty...
A quick search on the web puts it under $300.
Which doesn't seem that bad...

Thanks,
Pieter

[Gordon Maney]

I can't stand the noise and mess of a chop saw! I use a portable bad saw made by Milkwaukee. I can usually cut anything with it that fits into a chop saw, and get better cuts. They do cost more, somewhere just under $375. If you tried one you would be a convert as I am.

I have seen photos and literature on the Milwaukees before. I occasionally get tool lust and they appealed to me. I have wondered if they would be awkward. How are they to use? ...in terms of actual handling?

[Sickcall]

They don't cut everything, but everything you can clamp into a chop saw and more. In my shop its the first tool I grab before the chop saw, sawzall, or torch. They have a limitation on the depth of cut of about 4 inches, and size do to its throat opening. The best feature is it is light weight and portable. I have used it under my truck and in the attic cutting pipe, places a chop saw doesn't go. It is not as versitile as a sawzall for those hard to get places but not as frustrating either. It cuts fast and it cuts smooth with less clean up before welding. With just a little practice anyone can make nice clean straight cuts.

[BobbyMike]

Hi Gordon,
From experience a chopsaw with the proper blade is the way to go for cutting metal studs. For production purposes you set up the saw with a stop so you can just place the stud down, push it to the stop and cut. More accurate and less tiring. Not having to hold the tool for all those studs is a good thing (no matter how light the tool is). You can usually find a decent one, used, for not too much (that way you could buy the Bad saw too). Most guys around here use Makitas, or DeWalts, but as long as it's a top rung manufacturer you should be fine.

[BobbyMike]

And wear gloves, those studs have sharp edges.

[Steve G]

I've got a Milwaukee portable bandsaw, sawzall, and a chopsaw. The chopsaw is the way to go for the steel studs. I got some of the throw aways off a construction job and used them to build a lowered ceiling in my house. The bandsaw is great for handheld cutting and the sawzall for demo. Milwaukee used to make a adapter to turn the portable bandsaw into a bench top regular bandsaw also. If you have a lot of ceiling to rock, rent one of those panel lifts. I rented one 2 weeks ago, $35 for 24 hours and put up 10 sheets of 5/8 by myself.

[Gordon Maney]

Apparently both Milwaukee and DeWalt sell a chop saw that does not use abrasive wheels, rather it uses a saw blade with carbide teeth. The manufacturers claim they cut faster than abrasive, no sparks, and a nicer finish. The machines cost quite a bit more, in the vicinity of $450, rather than around $200. The replacement blades are considerably more.

I admit to liking the idea of no sparks....

[pieter]

I admit to liking the idea of no sparks....

Sparks could be very bad in the environment where we are working on our trucks.. Heck, even in a house or outside a house with scrap wood laying around you'd need to keep an eye out for those wandering sparks...

Pieter