Drill bits & drill indexes

[Gordon Maney]

It seems that every few years my drill index starts to be missing some drills [I can't imagine who is responsible for that....] and the box is starting to not work so well. Then I agonize over what to do next, wait several years because I don't want to spring for a new one, and then finally do.

What are you using for drill bits? I am meaning for drilling metal. What brand, and what type? By type, I am meaning that there are tool steel bits and then there are some that are made from or coated with other metals.

Do you buy big indexes, small ones, none at all? How do you store them?

Discuss.....

[MoparNorm]

I usually buy an index, break a few commonly used bits, buy another index, break a few commonly used bits and buy another index....
Funny that you should post about this as just last week I was looking through my 47 drill bit indexes which are amazingly all missing the same bits...
I have a very nice high quality Hanson index with about 3.5 bits in it, that is marked with each of the missing sizes. I'll be going to the "jobber" store this next week to replenish it with some high strength black carbon bits. I've tried the titanium and others, it seems that they don't work any better or last any longer than the jobber bits. Old timers with the "eye" for using a sharpener made some of the best cutting bits that I have ever used, it is a lost and dying art.
MN

[JimmieD]

I haven't bought a quality drill index in years and years. Norm kinda covered it, that it's the same old bits that get used: 1/4, 5/16, 3/8, 7/16 and 1/2 inch. For me there's no use for a nice fractional bit set because I only end up using the wrong sized leftover bits to do a poor job after I've worn or broken the good right sizes.

I've been on a continual search at every stop for quality bits. I got a nice handful at the Sears yearend clearance sale, and another pile from Do-it-best hardware during a clearance sale. How about 12 @ 1/4" Titanium for 1 buck apiece?!!! Titanium are fine but the whole secret to drilling is speed, pressure and oil, oil, oil!

I find that the long jobber and aircraft bits are consistently better quality and they offer another nice bonus: far more drill body for resharpening! The Drill Doctor is great for whiling away winter evenings and come spring you're already to go punch holes again. So, I buy them where I find them and use either titanium, cobalt or hi-carbon and keep them sharp and use lots of oil.

And yes, Hansen makes some nice bits....

[Hawk]

I picked up a master pro set from Napa about 8 yrs back (or was it longer I forget), but they were on sale at a super price. It has a large index (more sizes then I will ever use in a life-time). And for the broken / missing / stollen / misplaced bits, its getting to the point of needing to get some replacements soon. But then again I will only get the ones I need and/or use the most.

[BobbyMike]

I generally use bradpoints or forstner bits more than anything else because I work with wood. I just go out and replace whatever "regular" drill I break/lose with another the next time I go to the hardware store. I've only got two indexes (and only bought one of those).

[Clint Dixon]

Don't grab just any bit close to the size you want

I learned a lesson in the machine shop. Only use the following drill bits when you are finish drilling a clearance hole to size. The first number in the following sets is for normal screw clearance, the second is for loose screw clearance:

#16-#10, #7-#2, H-K, Q-11/32, X-13/32, 15/32-31-64, 17/32-35/64

Also only use the following bits when finish drilling for tapped holes. The first number is for UNC, the second for UNF:

#29, #25-#21, #7-#3, F-I, 5/16-Q, U-25/64, 27/64-29/64

By using these listed drill bits only for their intended purpose, this leaves a whole lot of other drill bits that can be used for general drilling, hogging out material, and drilling progressively bigger holes. This way you lessen the chance of breaking and/or wearing out bits that you really need for critical hole sizes.

There are other numbers that can be added to your “do not touch unless you absolutely need them” list. These would include those needed to drill for pipe taps, metric screw clearance holes, and metric tap holes.

[Gordon Maney]

I learned a lesson in the machine shop. Only use the following drill bits when you are finish drilling a clearance hole to size. The first number in the following sets is for normal screw clearance, the second is for loose screw clearance:

#16-#10, #7-#2, H-K, Q-11/32, X-13/32, 15/32-31-64, 17/32-35/64

Also only use the following bits when finish drilling for tapped holes. The first number is for UNC, the second for UNF:

#29, #25-#21, #7-#3, F-I, 5/16-Q, U-25/64, 27/64-29/64

By using these listed drill bits only for their intended purpose, this leaves a whole lot of other drill bits that can be used for general drilling, hogging out material, and drilling progressively bigger holes. This way you lessen the chance of breaking and/or wearing out bits that you really need for critical hole sizes.

There are other numbers that can be added to your “do not touch unless you absolutely need them” list. These would include those needed to drill for pipe taps, metric screw clearance holes, and metric tap holes.

I admit; I am a little confused by your lists, would you clarify a bit for us? I will say that if you don't drill holes in tap drill sizes, then it certainly simplifies things and you could get by with a smaller index. I like one at least in 1/32 increments; 1/64 is nice, but more expensive. I don't often need tap drills, but I want to be able to drill for a tap when necessary.

[HWooldridge]

I do a certain amount of general machining so I have one complete index from 1/16" to 1/2" in 64ths and a number index - plus a lot of specialty bits. I seldom buy a single bit but most commonly the jobber sizes from MSC in packs of 6 to 12 (depends on size). I just don't stress over spending a few dollars on good quality drill bits as the alternative is often a lot of frustration. Case in point, I got low on 1/16" bits a few months ago and of course, had to finish a large job on the weekend when I couldn't get more than 2 or 3 at Home Depot. This was drilling stainless and it broke or dulled every bit I had so instead of finishing the job, I spent much of the day resharpening those little fellows on a bench grinder. I finally got thru the job but only had about 1/4" of flutes left on one bit. That night, I ordered a 12 pack of cobalt bits from MSC.

It also helps to either buy a Drill Doctor, which work pretty well - or learn how to resharpen off-hand at the grinder. Like the above example, that skill can often save a job.

[Clint Dixon]

I admit; I am a little confused by your lists, would you clarify a bit for us? I will say that if you don't drill holes in tap drill sizes, then it certainly simplifies things and you could get by with a smaller index. I like one at least in 1/32 increments; 1/64 is nice, but more expensive. I don't often need tap drills, but I want to be able to drill for a tap when necessary.

I guess a full drill index is kind of like a box of crayons. It is easy to get attached to a favorite and reach for that one quite often while overlooking the others. I might really like to draw green Power-Wagons with surrounding green grass and green trees. If doing so, the green crayon is going to wear out real quick unless I realize that Power-Wagons came in other colors too and to start concentrating use of the green crayon to more important things that should be green.

Drill bits can be treated the same and are no different than any other tool. Each has its own purpose. One may be tempted to use a screwdriver as a pry bar. Chances are, if doing so, when the the time comes that the screwdriver is needed for its designed purpose, it may be worn out or broken from using it for other purposes.

Certain holes, tap holes in particular, require a specific drill bit to create the correct size hole. These bits can be indicated with a a dot of paint on the index at their storage location. This way, they can be reserved for that time when only they will do, rather than chancing wearing them out or breaking them by using them randomly for other less important holes.

I found that I was repeatedly wearing out my 1/4" drill bit before any others. Then I realized that I was always reaching for that bit when drilling pilot holes for larger bits, non important holes to hook springs into, clearance holes for #10 and #12 screws, etc. And here I had all of these other bits I had never used from which I could have chosen a size closer to what I really needed.

[MoparNorm]

Gordon along the lines of Clint's post, I keep an index for taps along with their bits, so that they are always together as a set, it saves me time looking and also eliminates the possibility that when I look into the bit only index, the proper bit will be "missing". As per Clint's mentioning always using a 1/4 inch bit for pilots, I'm guilty of the same thing, except I buy 6-8 1/4" and/or 5/16" bits at a time and use those independent of the index.

Another problem is that I have drill presses with indexes and many different individual drill motors each with their own indexes. I can have 5-6 indexes all in the same state of disrepair with a ton of worn out bits, all normally in the same sizes...haven't figured out the solution to that one yet, except to buy more bits and TOSS the worn or broken bits, there just isn't the time to re-sharpen them on the jobsite.

MN

[DDEMILLE]

MSC and the Drill Doctor

I do the same thing as HWooldridge. ... Buy new bits from MSC as I need them and resharpen with a Drill Doctor as time permits. I only buy American made bits. I try to keep all my indexes full. I also have a couple Huot drill dispensers for fractional and number size drills. It costs a little more to get set-up, but it's worth it when you need just the right size bit in the middle of a job. Although nothing cuts as well as a factory ground bit, the Drill Doctor does a great job. Once you learn how to use it, sharpening can be done in a minute or so. For me it's much better than off-hand grinding. That takes a much steadier hand than I have.
Doug

[Gordon Maney]

It has been a long time ago, but there was a time when I was pretty good at hand sharpening larger bits, meaning 3/4 to 1 in. When you get into little stuff, 3/16 and below, I find it more difficult, even though it may seem like that should not be the case.

No matter what diameter, you have to be very careful to keep your point centered, and the angles right. I found it to be fun, though, and a kind of personal growth skill that makes you feel good if you are able to do it well.

[DDEMILLE]

Small bits

I don't even bother to sharpen very small bits. That's why I keep the bit dispensers. I keep 1 or 2 bits in each size from 3/16" up, but buy the smaller bits in quantities of 12. They break easier and are harder to sharpen. I envy you if you can do a good job sharpening by hand. The Drill Doctor will do 3 different angles and split points. I could never hold the correct angles by hand. Well worth the money for me. Biggest plus is the time saving, though.

[JimmieD]

My brand new Drill doctor sits unused on the shfl over there! meant to use some of the winter time to sharpen up my act, but the best laid plans of mice and men etc. Gotta get on that.....

[MoparNorm]

I had to add this postscript:
After being somewhat negative toward the Drill Doctor, because I either resharpen by hand or buy a new bit, I picked one up a few weeks ago, I have to admit that it works fine, quick and easy and the bits are OK for general work and need only a tad of "trickiness" to really, really, get the job done!
I changed my mind on this one....