Welding classes

[yosemitesamiam]

Hey...knowing how much we all love our rigs...how many of us took a formal classroom welding course to learn all they could about doing their own body work?

Our local college offers a class called "Autobody Welding and Cutting." It is the local J.C. so I can't imagine it costing more than $100 plus supplies to attend. Think it is worth it? Or should I get a welder and just go for it?

Any suggestions/comments very welcome here. Also, suggestions for type of welder/cutter as well.

Sam

[Ugg013]

Hey Sammy:

It's always a good bet to get any training ya can. Years ago I went to an Auto Body and Fender school. I had already been doing body work for years, but did learn more there and was a good investment. If Maynard ever makes it to junior in HS, they offer welding classes, and I already signed him up. As with anything though, the more ya do, the better ya get.

Later
Ugg

[Ron in Indiana]

I agree with Ugg and I attended a local class for auto body work 20 some years ago and it was well worth the time. This class allowed you to bring in your own car as long as it was within the parameters of the class. By all means invest the time in a class. As for equipment I would see what they have at the college and try out theirs. I have a Hobart 135 mig and wish I had at least one size larger. It's fine for sheet metal but that's about it. What kind of cutting do you mean? The piece being cut and the desired results are many. If you want to really cut things up a plasma cutter will do the job to an extent. When trimming sheet metal I use everything from a panel cutter in an air chisel to a sheet metal shears to a pair of tin snips depending on what I want in the end. I have found that either Eastwood Company or Auto Body Toolmart are good sources for tools that won't break the bank. Both have websites with their online catalogs. If you do take the class keep us posted on how it goes please. Have fun.

[MoparNorm]

Ditto,
I took enough welding classes to become certified....35 years ago, but welding is something that must be done on a continuing basis to stay sharp (I'm not), practice, practice, practice. Taking a basic course will give you a great head start.
MN

[yosemitesamiam]

Thanks Everyone!

Thanks guys...I'm going to go ahead and do it. Class doesn't start until Spring next year, but what the heck! There are a few courses they offer. I'll start off with this one and see where it gets me!

Off to research equipment. Maybe I'll hit up a local yard and get some scrap to play with also...maybe a Cheby or Furd since I don't want to wreck a Dodge playing! :)

Sam

[Ugg013]

Sam:

New Dodges are okay as they ain't really Dodge's anymore, but Daimler's. Welding on the old PW's and WC's are way different than welding on regular cars or trucks, as they used real steel back then, and it's MUCH thicker. Have fun with the course.

Later
Ugg

[yosemitesamiam]

I've put WAY too much thought on this!

Sam:

New Dodges are okay as they ain't really Dodge's anymore, but Daimler's. Welding on the old PW's and WC's are way different than welding on regular cars or trucks, as they used real steel back then, and it's MUCH thicker. Have fun with the course.

Later
Ugg

I agree with that statement whole-heartedly. What I do find interesting is that the new 3500HD Chassis Cab frame rails are almost identical to the PWs of yester-year. The axle tubes are only 3" too long over all as compared to the old PWs. The back half of the frame being completely flat and straight back and built to look like a ladder frame, with option to move the gas tank makes me think you could not only also move the back axle up to the necessary 126" wheel base, but you could also lose the back 1/2 of the rear frame pretty easy. Might make a really good STIFF frame replacement that we could tack a old PW body onto. Give it that, and with the NV5600, and NV471 Tcase, you could also have PTO features on it. Think anyone would notice you were running a 11.5" pumpkin out the back axle?

Expensive option I know...but I think you could offset some of that cost selling the 6.7L Cummins and the body off it. Keep the Tcase and Tranny, and PRESTO!

[Ugg013]

Sammy:

Ya know, the 6.7 be a little hard to stuff under a PW hood. Otherwise, Hmmm. HA! Find a rolling wreck somewhere. Like my 99 Durango, I rolled it. The body was cashed, but the frame and drive train were still good. snif I still miss that truck. It was pre Daimler, and IMHO, built better than my 01 D.

Later
Ugg

[yosemitesamiam]

Sammy:

Ya know, the 6.7 be a little hard to stuff under a PW hood. Otherwise, Hmmm. HA! Find a rolling wreck somewhere. Like my 99 Durango, I rolled it. The body was cashed, but the frame and drive train were still good. snif I still miss that truck. It was pre Daimler, and IMHO, built better than my 01 D.

Later
Ugg

Well that is what I was saying. Sell the body and the 6.7 Cummins. Keep the frame for modification, and the running gear. With that ladder type frame, you could move trans and tcase and axles just about anywhere necessary and shorten the rear of the frame to suit what is needed...then add a 4BT.

[MoparNorm]

I can't post right now, I'm busy installing the LoJac...ha!ha!

MN