3-point hitch mounted ballast box for tractor

[Gordon Maney]

I want to build another ballast box for my tractor. The one I am using now I first built for a 24hp Kubota that weighed about 1,200 pounds. I now use it on a John Deere 4-wheel drive utility that has a 73hp diesel, weighing 6,200 pounds (and that is without the loader).

I filled the box with concrete, increasing the weight to just over 1,200 pounds, when I started using it on the John Deere.

I want a ballast assembly that has conflicting goals. I don't want it to stick out to the rear any more than necessary (so I can back up close to things), but I want it to provide neat storage for chains and related items, such as hitch pins, hooks, perhaps a few tools. I also want to be able to pull with it, meaning pull a chain or cable, or pull a wagon. I want the center of gravity to remain as low as possible. It also needs to be able to be parked and be free standing. I will produce some sort of lid or cover to keep the weather out of the storage place. You can see that all of these objectives complicate the matter.

So.... it can't be a box full of concrete, or there goes your storage. I am noodling over some designs that would use heavy plate, with the thickness calculated to provide the desired weight of 1200 to 1500 pounds, but allow the thing to have an empty center, into which I could place the chains and other items.

Have any of you done something like this, or seen something like this? I am interested in any ideas you may have.

[Terry Newton]

One thought to keep in mind.

Everyone around here has always used an attachment that is nothing more than a floor you can stand on, and a short wall high enough to mount your hitch points on. It is an L laying on its side. A box with 3 sides and the top open.

It works great for moving stuff around the yard, or whatever. Perhaps this could carry a small box attached to the underside containing steel/concrete, and then the rest of the box could be completed using your idea of the thick walls. Or you could make the walls in such a way that it was actually a box inside a box, and then fill that in with concrete.

However, since the one we have currently is around 6 feet wide by 4 feet long this may not meet your requirement of taking up a small amount of space.

Several years ago we heard of people going to the wider rims for the front of 2WD Massey's that came from the factory with the slender rims. They were doing this in order to better distribute the weight added to the front end by an aftermarket loader.

Problems began showing up in the hub/lug/bearing area. The loader and rims were rated for the weight, but all the internal parts for the front end were not.

We HEARD(note the emphasis) that some had actually sheared off the studs with this set up. I cannot confirm this, however.

Just something to keep in mind, as I would think the use of a ballast box would increase the amount of weight you can carry with the loader. Is that the purpose?

If you buy a tractor that comes with a factory loader is everything spec'd for the extra weight the loader will present? I would think this would be one advantage of using a Deere loader.

Here, everyone runs a Deere with a Bush Hog loader. Many say the Bush Hog is a better loader, but some say many just don't want to pay for the extra green paint.

If you are running a 73 horse, is that a 2600 series? I think Dad's is a 2640. That makes for a very nice compromise for what we do. You do not have so much you cannot get around, but you have enough for large work as well. 2WD, or 4?

How is your leg?

[Gordon Maney]

The Deere is a 5500, and it is fitted with a Deere 540 quick detach loader with an oversize material bucket. The bucket is 7' wide.

Yes, the ballast is to allow safe lifting. The loader can pick up about 2400 pounds, but not without ballast, as you will pull the back wheels off the ground.

I use this tractor for snow removal (hence the oversize bucket), mowing large areas, and also as an all purpose shop crane. I am also using it to move logs as the need arises. The reason that I want the ballast to stick out the back as little as possible is that when you are maneuvering in the trees, space is at a premium.

My chainsaw merit badge is healing nicely, thank you, and I continue to celebrate my good luck in not having done more damage.

[Cheyenne Dave]

Gordon,

A couple of years ago I worked on a JD 2940 with a 740 loader. I had the impression that the loader was over-sized for that tractor or it had just been terribly abused. The bearings in the front axel were grossly undersized...actually smaller than what we have in our POWER WAGON's! They were totally trashed and some damage done to the castings as well.

Tractors seem to be primarily designed for the task of pulling and the front end is strictly for steering and keeping its nose out of the mud. Loaders seem to be an after thought as they sure haven't beefed up the front end to deal with the forces generated by the loader. I'd keep an eye on those bearings if I were you, particlularly the trunion bearings.

[Cheyenne Dave]

Here is another attachment to show the size of the loader. The whole front end of this tractor needed service and repair. Both bucket tilt hydro rams were bent; there was over 2 cups of water in the front diff.; had to replace one wheel center and repair the wheel lugs on both front wheels, etc, etc. The owner couldn't understand why tractor didn't move well in the snow. It had a broken outer axel shaft...

This unit was bought at auction with a nice paint job, but it was beat to ****! This is the job that helped me get Skippy!

[HWooldridge]

Gorden,

You might build it all from plate in a tall rectangular configuration, just don't fill it all the way up with concrete, thus leaving the "box" on top for tools and chain. Weld on hinges and a lid to keep the water out and the bottom of the box can have a tongue for the hitch. Weld some angle iron on the tractor side with the appropriate size holes to allow attaching to your 3 point. I am sure someone here knows what a cubic yard of concrete weighs - I thought it was 3000 lbs so you are only talking a half yard to build this. If it will fit your rig, a 3'tallx3'widex1.5'deep from 1/4 plate should suffice.

[powerwagontim]

My little black book says a cubc yard of concrete weighs 3,996 pounds.
Tim