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I just finished making 5 seperate 104 mile round trips to a salvage yard to get a sandwich-type governor off a flathead intake manifold. I finally ended up cutting the intake portion of the manifold off with a Sawzall after all other removal options failed miserably. The carb came off no problem, but the body of the governor appears to have welded itself to the mounting studs. I suspect that the chalky white corrosion product of aluminum+steel+moisture is at work here, but it's hard to tell since the casting hole clearance appears smaller than the carb. Double-nutting the studs did absolutely nothing, even with heat and penetrating oil. I was able to shock one side free by tapping with a plastic mallet, but the other side is still locked. I was thinking about using a tubular cutter that would slip over the stud and cut out a bigger hole, along with compressed air to blow out chips. I tried 13/16 brass tube with teeth cut into the end, but it's too soft. Anyone seen a tool like this, or do I get to make my own?
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Sorry to hear of your miseries, Maine. I've come to believe that some days are intended to be spent in bed with the covers over our little heads, all day long.
A few things come to mind: the old candle wax trick? Many swear by it and it's often used on motorcycles because of the common use of Al/Fe together. Heat it good and hold a candle to end of bolt, draws parrafin into joint.
Another thing I've done is to heat to good and hot, not cherry red or anything, and using an eye dropper or duck syringe drip cold water on the bolt. Water boils and then cools bolt and as it cools down water is pulled into the void between it & casting to lubricate.
A tried and true method to remove a stud brken flush with threaded hole is to drill a depression into broken stud. Get a thick heavy washer and place over stud end and fill stud's drilled hole and washer center with MIG weld. Now weld a heavy nut onto the washer. Let cool just a bit to set weld and back out the broken stud. If nut breaks off, repeat. This can also be done on a stud or bolt that extends above flush, but again good to drill a hole in bolt for extra adhesion in weld process. -
I finally got it off- after another 5 hrs experimentation. I cut one stud just below the gasket with a whiz wheel, and rotated the governor body back and forth on the other til it came off. The cut off stud was pressed out with a 5-ton press- I drilled a hole in a piece of plate to allow the stud to pass thru so the governor body wouldn't get tweaked out of shape. If I had to do this again in a yard, I'd carefully cut one stud with a mini-hacksaw by splitting the gasket, then do the twist & shout till the governor came off. In my experience (jetskis) Heat and penatrants won't touch aluminum corrosion- you have to cut it out of the hole, or crack the bolt loose. It's one of these things where "an ounce of prevention is worth a ton of cure", i.e. NeverSeize.Comment
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alum&iron
how about a broaching bit like used in the mag drills? I have two that are made for a regular three jawed chuck. seems to me that if you left out the center pin of the bit it would do just what you are looking to do. alum&iron can be extremely tough to deal with. I had a friend who put a new set of tires on his 78 t-bird with the factory alum wheels by hand,(hammers and spoons) because the wheels could not be removed from the car. pwDaveComment
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