4bt, 80% daily driver, 10% tow rig FFPW???

[Macadoo]

I am working on putting my '59 PW onto a 97 Ram 2500 chassis. As long as you find a donor chassis built before '07 (I think) it will have a live axle front and rear if its 4wd. The front will be coil spring after '94, but with the ride quality they provide I am willing to skimp on original looks for comfort in that aspect. I have my '90 Wrangler if I want to ride in a 'truck'.

MolarFreak, I'm thinking of doing the samething with my '48 PW as you are doing. I am looking for a donor truck now. I also just moved to Boise and I see you are here as well. How is your project going?

[Macadoo]

Checking in

gixxer, did you ever find a truck and if so, how is the project going?

[maineSS]

There's not a lot of slop in new shackle pins & bushings as I found when I replaced mine. If you can see visible wear and move it around, it's time for a change, unless you want to get nickle & dimed on tire wear.

[TK064]

great thread as I am in the same dilemma of how to proceed with an eye towards increasing safety a bit and maintaining the original as much as possible.

And hence my post, on the leaf spring shackles, how much play is normal taking into account it is a grease joint. my pins have visible wear and i am trying to decide if i should replace all the bushings and pins. Trying not to completely get nickle and dimed to death unless I have to, or is there a fix using poly bushings.

Thanks in advance

[Gordon Maney]

Let's put it in the conversions forum, since some people may not view a diesel as their first choice, or their affordable choice.

[gixxer]

As far as the "definitive build" for modern daily driver road use is concerned, someone, sometime has to do it. Charles of M Series Rebuild does an outstanding job with OEM parts, but the wheel/tire situation and turning radius needs to advance into the late 20th century.

This got me thinking yesterday! What about a "definitive build" thread first? I would be more then willing to start it. There seems to be enough interest in it. It would be interesting to have those with experience in modifying these trucks chime in with what they like about how their project turned out and what they would change if they did it again.

Of course my perfect build will no doubt defer from others so I envision this thread as more of a informational and factual post such as a listing of years, makes and models of transmissions out there. Which of those are easiest (lack of adapters, input / output swaps), to bolt up to a "insert your motor here" and so on. My hope in doing this would be to uncover the best parts list that goes together the simplest, and provides the best bang for the buck. While at the same time meeting all the criteria we set.

So let me know what you think and where this thread should be started (meaning continue here or start in the conversions form).

[scrapdaddy]

Thanks, it would better to start with a newer one then? Sheet metal same quality. Seems I never see newer ones for sale.

[maineSS]

As far as the "definitive build" for modern daily driver road use is concerned, someone, sometime has to do it. Charles of M Series Rebuild does an outstanding job with OEM parts, but the wheel/tire situation and turning radius needs to advance into the late 20th century.

I've heard hanging pedals will free up about 2" more leg room. I'm not sure when they appeared, but it was probably the very late 50's or early 60's. The W300M and the WM300 would be most likely to have them.

[gixxer]

It would be neat to develop a parts list for a modern drive train, suspension, and steering using widely available assemblies. The links I found represent a few different ways of doing it, and some have more road time than others. Maybe Gixxer can draw up the definitive build for a special issue of PWA?

This sounds like a great idea, however I am in no way deserving of that honor. I am just a newbie trying to figure it all out. To be honest I wish someone would tell me :-). There seems to be a few people on here pretty well qualified to make such a parts list. I would be more then happy to share my build once I get started, but purchasing a truck is still several months away (working on becoming debt free at the moment other then mortgage).

A question for the O.P. have you ever driven a power wagon or sat in one?

To date I have only seen in person 3 power wagons. The one across the street from me when I was growing up, and two M series ambulances. One of which I went to see yesterday. I have never driven one. I had planned on using the hanging pedals from Uglytruckling.com, sounds like they help to some degree.

Bruce - I am going to spend more time going over all 60+ pages of your build, a lot of good info. in there and I am sure it will answer more than a few questions.

Thank you all again, all your insight is really shaping my build plans and research focus. I figure I have several months till purchasing a truck then I'll be on the parts hunt so I am hoping to have a clear direction by then.

[scrapdaddy]

I never sat in one with the hanging pedals. That would be better for leg position. So you say the late models ones already had them, do you know what years. The OP is going to modify things anyway, might as well make it feel good driving.

[maineSS]

You can gain a little more legroom with hanging pedals in the PW, but it won't win you any Purist Points unless it happens to be a really late production model.

Another interesting link- this fellow is working with a '47 1/2 ton Fargo, but is upgrading the flathead and brakes- http://schaners.com/fargo/brakesinjection.htm .

He's evidently replaced the rear axle with a more modern Dodge one and added disc brakes, but didn't mention if he's changed anything up front.

Sounds like FI can be hit or miss- this guy and the one who used the Dodge LeBaron TBI had no problems, but Painless Wiring has been messing with a kit for the Ford flathead, and it's still not customer ready...

[scrapdaddy]

That's good to know, I always thought it was good to go as it was. I guess it's never that easy. I've been wanting to talk to you in the near future anyway, so I'll add that to the list. Thanks Charles

[Charles Talbert]

When i mentioned upgrades done in house to the 3053; I wasn't referring to the overdrive ratio. The transmission will do just great with or without that. In fact I would suggest you be certain that you will have enough vitamins under the hood before considering raising the od ratio. The critical factor is 2nd gear oiling. We do an upgrade that fixes that issue for good. It generally isn't a factor in the M35 application because of minimal RPM range. The overdrive is simply an option you can take or leave.

[scrapdaddy]

I guess it all depends on ones body type and AGE! I would think a younger man could handle holding up his leg more than say me [old]. I drove a fj40 for ten years as a daily driver, no problem, not now. Charles, you got me thinking about the 3053 several years back, I have one in my deuce and like it. I'm running the 11-16 Mich., do you still think I would need the new OD gear ratio. Didn't mean to hijack the thread, but it should add to the dicussion.

[Charles Talbert]

This is a great thread going on. Even though I only have a M37, I'm learning alot.2 thoughts on this, have any of you concidered the Spicer 3053. I'm going with it behind a 4bt, thoughts? and a question for the O.P. have you ever driven a power wagon or sat in one. The reason I say this, I wanted a power wagon first then drove one. It was like my old landcruiser, had to cock my leg up in the air to work gas pedal. Bad for the long haul. I found out the M37 fit my body just right. Not a problem for some, but if you're going to use it alot, check it out before all your planning. I'm looking forward to the build.

Ron

I've had a number of clients tell me the reason they chose an M37 over a Power Wagon as the core base for a build was the fuel pedal location not being a driver friendly issue. The "BUDD" M37B1 build was one of those.

We use upgraded Spicer 3053 transmissions in various configurations that we build in house frequently; I love them for many reasons. I would not use just a take-out unit without upgrades however. You will have issues with that behind the Cummins.

We are in process with a power wagon build at this time, and will soon be to the point of addressing in cab features. It is getting an electronic Cummins which makes dealing with fuel pedal location much easier since there is no mechanical linkage required; thus mounting the pedal assembly anywhere you desire becomes in most cases a simple matter. I'm going to look seriously at locating it down low off the trans tunnel. I'll try to remember to post an update of how that comes together. We can certainly do it using the older mechanical Cummins also, but as you might imagine, it would be a much more complicated issue because of having to fabricate mechanical linkages. I can understand how the purist builder would not want to change this, as it is a definite trade mark of a Power Wagon. Nothing at all wrong with that, however one of our trademarks at M Series is being able to build a truck that is very user friendly with regards to vehicle driver comfort, safety, capability, and longivity. Above all we put lots of effort into building exactly what a client wants. I love purist builds as much as the deep rooted diehard; but to remain in successful business, we must be willing to build what a client wants. I love seeing smiles on faces because we can turn out exactly what a client wishes their truck to be at the end of a build; that is the biggest reward and it brings return business.