British Newbie & How it all started for me !!

[RobA]

Hello All

I'm some distance away from y'all, but this forum makes it all feel a bit closer.

I live in Surrey, in the U.K, and have just started my Dodge love affair after buying my first American vehicle, and first pickup!

I'm going to try and post a picture up, but first of all, let me admit that it is not a 4WD. I've searched in vain for good resources and this one is one of the best, and was recommended by one of your members.

So how did it all start for me?

Simple answer really, on eBay (the .co.uk version). This was where I first saw my pickup, and after bidding for it on three separate 1 week auctions, and becoming the highest bidder each time without meeting the reserve, I finally gave up. A week or so after the final auction, curiosity got the better of me, and I contacted the seller to ask how much he really wanted. Funny thing was, his reply said he wanted exactly what I had bid on each occasion, but he decided to chance his arm, and set the reserve much higher! So, a deal was struck, and after a 500 mile round trip (yes our little island is that big!!) I parted with my cash and became the new owner.

OK, so from my muddled research so far, here is what I know about my truck.

It is ex USAF, and was most likely bought at a US airbase auction here in the U.K.

It is a 1982 (I think, poss 1981) Crew Cab model, with a 318ci V8, auto transmission, and power steering. Being ex military, the luxuries end there!

She runs OK, but not great, so I have some ignition parts winging their way across from your side of the pond as we speak, and am contemplating a new carb (from 2bbl to 4bbl) and manifold.

I obviously like the V8 rumble, which is so rare here in rainy old England, but I really need her to run sweet and tune her for economy, as the cost of fuel here could pay for a shuttle mission. Regular Unleaded here is £1.22 PER LITRE, which with my useless math roughly equates to $7.83 per US Gallon!!!

There are a few body parts I'd dearly like to get, but it seems a lot of the US suppliers won't ship internationally.

Top of my "want" list at the moment are new door glass seals and runners, as pretty much everything rubber has perished over the years, causing quite extensive tinworm in the bottom of the door frame.

Anyway, just thought I'd introduce myself and say hi, and hopefully be back soon to pick your brains for ideas on suppliers and parts.


Regards


Rob

[74w300uteline]

welcome

what side is the steering wheel on? perhaps you could install a "locker" in the rear to compensate for the lack of 4x4. cheers

[RobA]

Hello and Thanks for the Welcome!

Steering is genuine US of A and on the left, which means here in the UK, I get to step straight from the truck onto the kerb (sidewalk) and makes any overtaking particularly hair raising as you cannot see what's coming!!

With regard to the lack of 4WD, I don't think it will be a problem, because the opportunity to take the truck anywhere other than on the road is quite limited here on our little island!!

Would love to hear from anyone with experience of tuning a 318 for economy, and specifically to add to a (ebay seller's) claim that fitting a newer/new 4 barrel 600cfm carb would give more economy than the worn out and butchered 2 barrel the truck currently has. I can see why this could be true, but has anyone done this and found it does save petrol (gas!)??

I have a fully electronic distributor, new 8.5mm silicon leads, and a high output coil coming, along with some iridium spark plugs for the 318. The plugs have proved brilliant on my motorcycles and I'm just hoping they will add something to the Dodge motor too. I got everything on U.S eBay quite cheaply compared to the UK prices.


Cheers



Rob

[Ron in Indiana]

I to would like to welcome you to the fold. Nice looking truck you have there. It must get stares from the locals as you have one of the larger vehicles on the road.
As for the 4 barrel carb, a 318 doesn't need more than 500 cfm with anymore being a waste. A good manifold is an Edelbrock dual plane for low end response and torque. A small Edelbrock carb will compliment the manifold. Along with this would be a good free flowing exhaust but I don't know what kind of restraints you are under on the island. I'm assuming your truck has catalytic converters which are expensive to replace. You are on the right track for improving performance just be sure to include a check of all systems including the PCV and EGR valve. There are any number of products claiming to improve mileage but most are gimics to get your money. One cheap way to improve mileage on any vehicle is proper tire inflation and front alignment. The best thing is to tune the motor to the factory specs with the timing set to pull the most vacuum at idle which is checked with a gauge while running. This should get you going and be a bit less painfull at the petrol pump. $7.83 a gallon? OUCH

[RobA]

Thanks Ron and Hello to you too !

An interesting read there, which has prompted some questions. Please remember when considering my questions that V8's are not commonplace here in the UK, so although the answers may seem obvious to you fella's, here in the land of small 4 cylinders and diesel, it's not so obvious!!

So a 500cfm carb would suffice? Would you recommend a 2 or 4 barrel carb? The only reason I ask is I am contemplating a bid shortly on eBay here in the UK for a Edelbrock 4 barrel manifold.
Should I stay with 2 barrels and my stock intake manifold or go down the route of 4 barrels and a new inlet manifold??

Remember, parts are not so commonplace this side of the pond, so it seems I'm oing to have to rely on US suppliers, and not all of those want to ship internationally, which is a real shame.

There are some nice rear wheel arch repair panels on US eBay, but they won't post them to the UK. Bummer!



Thanks again


Rob

[RobA]

Oh! I forgot to mention.

The exhausts have been replaced with a nice home brewed set-up, by the previous owner.

Using the original exhaust manifolds, each side goes rearwards with big bore stainless steel pipe, through a cherry bomb silencer (I think?!!) and into rear stainless pipes with flared polished stainless ends. Gives a nice sound, even when it's not running perfectly at the moment.

No catalytic converters anywhere to be seen.

Incidentally, is it OK to run it on regular unleaded. Regular unleaded her in the UK is 95 RON if you use that Stateside?


Cheers


Rob

[Ron in Indiana]

Rob, so your exhaust is fine as is which will help with mileage and costs. To say you will see an improvement from a 2 barrel to a 4 barrel is hard to say, The problem will come in when you get the urge to push down on the skinny pedal under your right foot and open the other two barrels. This will drop your mileage. I would go for a good rebuild of the stock two barrel to see if that will do the trick. It's an easy carb to rebuild and will do a servicable job considering how you are going to use the truck. The 4 barrel would give extra power for pulling heavier loads when needed but the two barrel will get the job done too. Regular unleaded is fine in your truck, what are you using now? We go by octane rating here which is 87 octane for regular. So to sum up, go for a good tune up and rebuilt carb with regular unleaded. Throw in a clean air filter and oil change for happy motoring.

As for the wheel lip panels, I have used them for repairs and I just repaired a 1985 Dodge truck with sheetmetal since it was minimal rust damage. The repair panels are well suited for this repair but I don't know how to go about getting any to you. I'm assuming the exchange rate and shipping in todays uncertain times is a factor for the suppliers over here. If I can help let me know, I have done a good bit of bodywork.

[RobA]

Ron

Once again, a big Thank You for your invaluable advice.

It looks like I've won myself that Edelbrock Performer manifold before reading your update, so I guess I may go the route of Holley 4 barrel carb. I'm guessing (but don't know) that a 4 barrel driven with a light foot would be as economical as a 2 barrel with the same foot and only begin to drink more gas when I "give it the beans"??
I also (now) notice that if I do fit the Performer manifold, then decide to retro-fit a 2 barrel carb, I can just fit a cheap adapter plate.

So, I find myself with a new multiple dilemma...

600cfm or 500cfm? 600 seems more popular and available at better prices. Is the difference that great? (I guess it must be for them to make both types?) or should I stick it out for a 500cfm?

Manual or electronic choke? I need choke here in the damp cold UK, but the mechanism on the current Carter carb is zip tied open, and the linkage all bent up, so a new carb is really on the shopping list. Should I go for manual choke, which I'm guessing is activated by a device fixed to the inlet manifold, OR an electronic choke, which (again!) I guess is activated by a +12v applied to it either by a switch or some sort of temperature sender.

Mopar Kickdown/Auto Linkage? I read (on US eBay) that some carbs are sold with OR without the correct linkages for Dodge Automatic applications. Do I need a specific carb, or can the linkages be acquired and fitted easily?

Sorry to sound such a numpty, but this really is a whole new world to me. I learn fairly fast (unless it's maths or domestic duties!!) and have a Haynes manual for Dodge Trucks on it's way, so hopefully my idiotic questions will eventually subside as I grow wiser.

With regard to the body repair panels, the upper rear arch repair sections were listed (again) on US eBay at $60 a pair, which seemed a nice price to me considering the amount of work it would save, but the seller didn't even reply to my question about shipping to the UK, although in fairness they do specify US Only. I know nothing about the mystical dark art of welding and bodywork, but I considered the Dodge a good place to learn, as it's made of real steel and not paper thin Bacofoil like most Euro cars!

All advice greatly received, and MANY thanks in advance


Regards


Rob

[74w300uteline]

no opportunity for off road?

from the picts looks like lots of pastures that need exploring. Is it illegal to drive off road? Are the Bobbys worried about crop circles =)

[RobA]

Hello 74W...

The pics were actually taken by the previous owner in West Yorkshire where he lived. I guess he probably had more opportunites to take it off-road in his neck of the woods!

Down South, on the Surrey/Sussex border where I live, the off-road offerings are VERY slim, but to be honest, it's very unlikely I would venture there, and the truck will most likely haul small loads and be used to burble along the skinny English roads, intimidating all the old ladies driving their Euroboxes!

My eventual aim is to return it more-or-less to the USAF spec, and paint her again in satin dark olive drab (which I think is the original finish) and just cruise (with the lightest throttle openings ever measured by man!!)


Cheers



Rob

[Ron in Indiana]

Rob, first the only bad questions are those not asked. Everyone has to start somewhere and I by no means profess to be an expert. I only relay what I've learned by reading, talking with others and personal experiences.
The Perfomer manifold is a good manifold which would be complimented by an Edelbrock carb not because of the maker but by design. Hollys can be temperamental especially if not set up correctly. The Edelbrock is based on the design Chrysler used for years so why reinvent the wheel?
You could use a 600 cfm and get by as they are more popular plus with a tuning kit it could be dialed in better. I have an Edelbrock on my 1964 Townwagon with the older style 318 and it performs well but it did fine with the two barrel as well.
You definitely want a carb that has the Mopar linkage not a one size fits all. It will simplify the kick down problem tremendously. An automatic choke that works correctly is the way to go. Not that a manual is a problem but you have to adjust it from the dash and not forget to push it in when the engine is warmed up to temp. One other thing on the carb selection, you will need a 4 barrel air cleaner to go with it as the neck on the two barrel is to small. Aftermarkets are fine.

Do you have experienced bodyshops in your area? It's a straight forward job for an experienced bodyman although as you say it is more substantial sheet metal than they might be accustomed to. The original color should be under the weatherstripping or other concealed areas not covered during the past repainting. Being ex air force it may have been a blue.

Not a problem on this end as far as offering help. I can be reached at 59redtruck@verizon.net also. Why do I have a sudden urge for fish? ha ha

[OLD DODGE]

If you want to go with a Holley carb here is what you want.

List# 9834
600 cfm, vacuum secondaries, square bore, electric choke, Chrysler A.T. kickdown link.

If you can't find that one you can buy the basic carb list# 1850 and add the electric choke and kick down link on to it.

Nothing wrong with Holley carburetors. I've been known to run three at a time.

[RobA]

Hello again!

Sorry for the slow reply, but I've been away on a short break for a few days.

Old Dodge, many thanks for the Holley carb information, I will certainly have a scan for those parts numbers on US eBay, as it does offer a better choice. V8's and associated parts are not the norm here, so I don't think the parts would be obtainable, or I'd have to pay a hefty premium.

Ron mentioned that 500cfm would be sufficient, and because I barely know one side of a carb from another, I wonder what the extra of a 600cfm carb would give me?? Is it just extra power, or can I expect the economy to be the same as a 500cfm as long as I'm being gentle with my right foot??

Also, would that Holley sit perfectly on top of the Edelbrock performer manifold that I won on UK eBay (but haven't received yet) ???

Sorry to sound such an idiot, it's just that I'm happy to order the parts, but because of the delay and shipping hassles, I want to get it right first time.


Thanks again everyone


Rob

[OLD DODGE]

The 600 cfm is the smallest mass produced Holley aftermarket four barrel carb. You will likely not find a 500 cfm. I have a 390 cfm double pumper on a vehicle but I had to special order it. Since it was made for racing there is no provision for a choke; no butterfly or even a hole in the air horn for it. It takes special parts and since that will be an issue for you, I recommend an off the shelf carb.

The numbers I gave you are square bore carbs. All the venturies are equal size. A spreadbore carb has tiny primary venturies and large secondaries. These came out as a result of emmisions requirements. By making the venturies a smaller diameter it increases the air speed through them.

The intake manifold you have could be either one. This thread shows a picture of a spreadbore intake.
http://www.powerwagonadvertiser.com/...ead.php?t=9073

The carb numbers listed are vacuum secondary ones. The primaries will open with the throttle cable. The secondaries will open only when there is a load on the engine. 600 cfm shouldn't cause you any problems.

You do not want a mechanical secondary carb. On these the secondaries open with the throttle cable also. Most are progressive linkage; the secondary venturies don't start opening untill the primaries are fully open. Some race carbs are 1:1 and both open at the same time.

[RobA]

This is a picture of the inlet manifold I won on eBay.



It's an Edelbrock 318/360 Performer and comes with the spacer shown (what's that for?) and the water neck as well.

I have seem many 600cfm Holley carbs on US eBay, but only one 500cfm.

As you say, perhaps I should stick with a common carb that has been produced in large numbers. With that in mind, I think I will probably end up buying a carb from a supplier with good feedback, even if I have to pay slightly more for it.

I have found this supplier on eBay "Carbdoc" AKA Allstate Carburetor located in the U.S. Does anyone have experience of this supplier, and does this item look like what I need??? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Holle...mZ350106857936


Once again, many thanks for your invaluable advice.



Rob