Ballast Resistor Question

[pieter]

My new vehicle - a 1975 dodge dart with a /6. We got it running after sitting for 8 years and after taking it for a quick run around the block, the ballast resistor gets very hot; hot to the point where if you touch it, you will get burned.

I've not done anything in regards to electronics or ignition on this vehicle. The battery is so/so as it was sitting for who knows how long. I charged it up and it is able to start the vehicle. The volt meter is on the positive side

Does it matter which side certain wires are hooked up to it? I don't think it is, but maybe?? In looking at the existing connectors, they are blackened depicting that they have seen steady heat in the past...

Anyone have some thoughts?

Thanks,
Pieter

[712edf]

Does it matter which side certain wires are hooked up to it? I don't think it is, but maybe?? In looking at the existing connectors, they are blackened depicting that they have seen steady heat in the past...

Anyone have some thoughts?

Thanks,
Pieter

Are you talking about the ballast resistor wires? On a single (2 prong) resistor no it doesn't matter. On a dual (4 prong) it doesn't matter end to end, but it does matter side to side I think. The shape of the connector prevents you from hooking it up wrong.

[pieter]

Are you talking about the ballast resistor wires? On a single (2 prong) resistor no it doesn't matter. On a dual (4 prong) it doesn't matter end to end, but it does matter side to side I think. The shape of the connector prevents you from hooking it up wrong.

Thanks 712edf!

This has the 4 wire and I see how the connector has a part that sticks into the resistor itself. So it is put in correctly as if you tried to put it on wrong, it wouldn't go on.

I initially thought it might be overcharging since the battery is questionable. The battery also seems to be boiling over as I have liquid on the outside of the battery now. Seeing the darkened connectors, I reliaze it is an old issue, so it's probably not that battery.

Well, lets see if anyone else has some thoughts.

Thanks,
pieter

[712edf]

When you mentioned volt meter could you have meant the factory ammeter in the dash, or does it have an actual voltmeter? If someone has added a voltmeter or monkeyed with the wiring in any way, that'd be the first thing I'd suspect. Sounds like you may have a overcharging issue (like most retailers), which isn't directly related to the ballast resistor, but still something to consider, with the toasty wiring and sweating battery.

[Ron in Indiana]

A quick run past an Autozone or Advance to have them do a check of the alternator would tell it's overcharging. It's a long way from NJ to here or home with a hot electrical system.

[oldmopar]

The resistor gets hot which is why it has the ceramic around to dissipate the heat but not sure how much current should be goint to it. If you think its a problem you should be able to get one at a local auto parts store. If the battery is over charging it is most likely the regulator but since the battery is so old it may not be taking a charge correctly in any case I would replace the battery before going on the road

[oldmopar]

wire diagram

This is a diagram from a 77 -78 dodge truck but it should be the same or very similar

[pieter]

Thanks for the info and the wiring diagram. I've got another truck I can pull the voltage regulator off and throw it in the car as a spare. Maybe at a rest stop I'll plug the spare in and see if it makes any difference. I'll be running with headlights on, so that will use up some voltage as well as the radio.

Pieter

[pieter]

Here is a new update. I got the spare voltage regulator and it causes the vehicle to not charge. Might be bad as it's from a truck that hasn't run in who knows how long.

I hooked the one back up that is in the car and it still charges "positive". I did try something and pulled the battery terminal; car stayed running and the voltage dropped right where it suppose to be.

Battery issue? Should I run with the battery disconnected?

I'll probably just leave things the way they are and pick up another voltage regulator on my journey back west unless someone has a quick idea.

Thanks,
Pieter

BTW - It has a factory voltmeter in the dash.

[712edf]

From what your saying I gather that your alternator is good; the regulator that came on the car may be bad since it appears to overcharge; the test regulator that you tried is bad since it doesn't appear to charge; the battery is fully charged but appears to cause the regulator to overcharge when connected.....Does the battery hold a charge when left connected and not charged (engine not started) for a few days? I've seen batteries with a screwed up cell that would maintain a decent charge while not in the vehicle but would go dead if installed & left in the vehicle for any lenght of time (nothing in the vehicle was found to be draining this battery). I've driven cars "on the alternator" temporarily without issue....My suggestion is to get another regulator & replace the battery....Batteries are maintenance components meant to be replaced regularly anyways. Clean all electrical connections throughout the vehicle then start driving it, short distances at first til you develope "trust", then longer trips.

[Ron in Indiana]

Good advice but Pieter is in New Jersey and is driving the car back home to Michigan on Friday. That is unless he decides to come to Indiana first. Or if he breaks down then I'll be heading east with a trailer to drag him and the Dart back home. It's all good.

[pieter]

As Ron Said. I've got good batteries at home in Michigan. I just need to get there so I don't have to buy another battery. I think it will be fine. I've had a few test drives around the neighborhoods and roads here in Northern New Jersey the last few days to get comfortable with the Ole Girl.

As they said in the olden days - Head West young man ;o)

I'll let you know how it turns out...

Pieter

[712edf]

road trip

If you come to a situation where you need to drive "on the alternator" just remember to have the vehicle in motion (in other words engine above idle) before turning on any accessories (lights,wipers) and when you come to a stop sign keep the revs up, shift into neutral if you must. Nothing more embarrassing than having to get out in traffic to hook up your battery for a quick crank. Even brake lights can draw enough juice to kill an engine at idle running without a battery. Remember Apollo 13, every little amp counts.

[papardun]

I had a 75 power wagon that went through several batteries and alternators in succession, when I finally got done trying to fix it myself and took it to the garage, they told me that running the truck with the battery disconnected was a sure way to burn out the alternator. I've always thought a boiling battery was caused by a faulty regulator.

good luck on your trip.

Peter

[rickt4498]

hey pieter...

I left a light on for you

top of the Chrysler building in Auburn Hills off I-75...

hurry back...it may only last a FEW days... ; > (