What brand and weight oil do you use?

[TommyDodge]

There are so many different formulas and oils available now that it amazes me. Wal Mart carries 136 different brands, formulas, and weights of oil.
I am guessing that synthetic oil would not be good for our older trucks
What brand and formula oil do you use? Also detergent or non detergent?
I know some of the really old trucks (pre war mostly ) use non detegent, which is the only reason I ask about that
Also what is your favorite source for batteries?
DB69

[oldmopar]

I usually get whatever name brand is on sale and use 10-30. I always used the detergent evem when I had a model T
Batteries again not brand specific but look for which ever had the highest output. For a 6 volt I recently purchased a optima gel cell and it has preformed well

[shrinx]

Oil brand/weight

I'm in the midst of an oil change right now. I have been using a cheapo, straight 30 weight oil, but now and am going to start using a name brand 10W-30 detergent oil (I've got tons of sludge) in my WC-27. I'm hoping that after frequent oil changes the sludge will go away.

Terry

[pwdave]

cheap oil

be carful about the cheap oils . I bought some oil from the d----r store once to use in my superior engine (1898 one cyl., 1,464 cu.in.) used in the oil fields. it had a one quart glass oiler on the cylinder. when I poured in a half quart of the oil it would not mix with the oil that was already in the oiler, (as in water and oil) the oil that was in the oiler was a different color and it stuck out pretty good. I stopped the engine and poured it out and started over. I did not ever buy any more oil from the -olla- store, and never found out what the other oil was, casteroil maybe, or mineral oil I just don't know. but now I don't buy oil from such places, to much risk involved. Idon't want to be responible for the demise of my baby. PWDave

[712edf]

Valvoline conventional 20W-50...........never Q-state or pennzoil, too much parafins (wax).

I've heard good things about Rotella, Mobil-1, and dozens of others, but why switch from something that works for me.

[Longhunter7]

Rotella-T

I've been using Shell Rotella-T 15w40 in my stock 230 M37-B1.

I started using it when I had my turbo diesel Deuce and a Half, and it was highly recommended for my flat head six.

[Jason Mills]

I've read somewhere that present day oil "SI" rated oil has less zinc, (and maybe something else as well) than it did in the past, due to issues with emissions.

"CD" diesel rated oils are still carrying a higher amount of the anti-wear inhibitors. Which is my plan for the future.

[Charles Talbert]

If you want the best

There are so many different formulas and oils available now that it amazes me. Wal Mart carries 136 different brands, formulas, and weights of oil.
I am guessing that synthetic oil would not be good for our older trucks
What brand and formula oil do you use? Also detergent or non detergent?
I know some of the really old trucks (pre war mostly ) use non detegent, which is the only reason I ask about that
Also what is your favorite source for batteries?
DB69

Look at Royal-Purple synthetic 15-40, high dollar, but expect to pay a premium for quality products. If you want a decent oil that is something less, Rotella T 15-40 or Chevron DELO 400, 15-40. These are the only 2 moderately priced major brands I trust these days.

Batteries, Optima gel type, leaves wet cell batteries in the cold.

[Charles Talbert]

I'm in the midst of an oil change right now. I have been using a cheapo, straight 30 weight oil, but now and am going to start using a name brand 10W-30 detergent oil (I've got tons of sludge) in my WC-27. I'm hoping that after frequent oil changes the sludge will go away.

Terry

Sludge doesn't just go away, it must be manually cleaned out to get rid of it & the issues it causes.

Using a non-detergent oil is king for creating sludge, so called name brands are mostly cheapo's these days as well. Be very careful & do thorough checks on products before you pour it in. They can very easily be the most expensive oil you ever bought & directly responsible for killing your engine.

[greg rider]

I just did a ton of research on oil. Recently the oil companies have been reducing ZDDP. Please go to http://bigmacktrucks.com and enter the forums. Scroll down to Antique and Classic Mack trucks general discussion. Open and go to Oil Re-formulated. There is real good discussion on this from good people like here.

[ton10291]

I've been using Shell Rotella-T 15w40 in my stock 230 M37-B1.

I started using it when I had my turbo diesel Deuce and a Half, and it was highly recommended for my flat head six.

Ditto.

I've been using Rotella-T 15w40 in all of my trucks for the last couple of years.

[johnbyrdgates]

Pan-head engine oil

I recently rebuilt the 230 six cylinder on my 1953 M37. I've owned this truck since 1967 and changed the oil way more often than it needed throughout the engine's life. Oil was straight 30 weight from 55 gallon drums we had in the farm. Always a new filter and clean out of filter housing at each change.
At 38000 miles, the fuel pump follower had worn the can lobe so far down that it wasn't pumping enough gas at 20 mph uphill to keep the engine from starving.

The shop I took the block to for cleaning and line boring recommended that I start the rebuilt on Brad Penn motor oil and I did some research about it. It seems that the properties of motor oil have changed to accommodat the changing technology in motors. Any of the motor oils available at flaps have reduced levels of zinc and phosphate in them to protect catalytic converters. Engines have been modified to reduce point loading and no longer require the zinc and phosphate for protection.

The flathead, with its direct point load at the valve pushers and heavy springs still need the zinc and phosphate. Brad Penn and some other oils that are made for the older engine designs have the higher levels of those protectants.

That's what I use now.

[Charles Talbert]

Look at Royal-Purple synthetic 15-40, high dollar, but expect to pay a premium for quality products. If you want a decent oil that is something less, Rotella T 15-40 or Chevron DELO 400, 15-40. These are the only 2 moderately priced major brands I trust these days.

Batteries, Optima gel type, leaves wet cell batteries in the cold.

The oil info above doesn't cut it now either. In engines that need high concentrations of zinc, something like Amsoil Z-Rod, or equivalent are the only good choices left for the older equipment.

[jdepiero]

As usual, Mr. Talbert is correct. Not inexpensive, but Amsol Z-rod is the what to use. Hey, these vehicles are our babies. They deserve the best!

[Aaron S]

I have been using Schaeffer lubricants for ten years or so now and have nothing but good things to say about them. I'm currently running their Supreme 9000 5W 40 in all of my four cycle engines (large and small). I have found it to be a very high quality product that actually does live up to the manufacturer's claims. A rare thing today.

You can see the technical data sheets on their website if you are so inclined.