230 head gasket replacement procedure

[ton10291]

After seeing white exhaust smoke for 30 seconds to a minute after cold start and noticing a distinct maple syrup odor (near the front of the truck rather than from the exhaust) I've decided to try changing the head gasket on my Power Wagon. I'm not completely mechanically inept but would like to do the job right and avoid unnecessary misery like breaking head bolts Etc.

Can anyone point me to a document covering head gasket replacement or walk me through the process?

Thanks

-Tony

[oldmopar]

It is covered in the manuals but its not hard. Drain the water remove the bolts try soaking with pb blaster kroil oil or similar when removing the head lift it straight off. When installing be sure the gasket is on correct so it aligns up with all holes. Use about 6 studs to line up the head they come out and bolts go in after head is on correctly, best to use new head bolts but I have reused old without any problems, thread compound on bolts to water jacket. tighten head bolts start in center and work out; run engine it until warm and retorque. I am sure I forgot something but that the basics.

[ton10291]

Thanks for the reply.

I sounds easy enough. Once the head is off I'm thinking that I should take it to a shop and make sure that it's not warped or cracked.

One more question - Should I use some kind of gasket sealer on the new gasket? Permatex maybe?

[Charles Talbert]

Don't want to be a party pooper, but

I've seen the symptoms you describe numerous times. To be totally honest, here are the facts. When you start smelling anti-freeze like you described, the over whelming most likely issue is a cracked engine block. You may be one of the extreme few lucky ones that may have only a head gasket issue. Certainly check it out, but if you don't see evidence when the head is removed of an obvious coolant leak into a combustion chamber, start getting suspicious immediately. Are you seeing any signs at all of coolant in the oil? Oil will start to turn from its normal color to slightly milky looking. Any sign of oil in the coolant? First signs of this will be various colors swirled on top of the coolant solution, you will see this as soon as you remove the radiator cap. Cap will have a light sludge residue on the seal. Anti-freeze & engine oil will start to thicken & turn to sludge as the condition gets more serious.

By all means have the head magnafluxed & re-surfaced perfectly flat. Check the block deck with a precision straight edge, if it isn't flat, see your local engine machinist to get it corrected. Coat the new gasket on both sides with aerosol Copper-Coat gasket sealer before installing.

If you see evidence that points to a cracked block, stop in your tracks, no need to spend $$ on a head gasket job if you already know more serious issues exist. I've never seen a cracked 230 block that was repairable. I say all this to give you a heads up so you can pay attention to this as you go. I've had many brought here that had already had a head gasket job to no avail, cracked block is the issue 100% of the time. Good luck.

[ton10291]

Thanks for responding Charles. I've never seen any evidence of moisture in the oil or oil in the coolant. I changed the oil after getting the truck out of storage in May and have only driven it maybe 50-75 miles since then but the oil still looks clean and moisture free. Today I started the truck and drove it for a half hour or so and there was no smoking on startup. After the drive I checked the oil and coolant again and both were clean.

What do you think? Should I go through the trouble of changing the head gasket or is there something else that I can do to determine the condition of the block?

Also, if it is a cracked block and the blocks are seldom salvagable should I try a cooling system sealant?

[Charles Talbert]

Thanks for responding Charles. I've never seen any evidence of moisture in the oil or oil in the coolant. I changed the oil after getting the truck out of storage in May and have only driven it maybe 50-75 miles since then but the oil still looks clean and moisture free. Today I started the truck and drove it for a half hour or so and there was no smoking on startup. After the drive I checked the oil and coolant again and both were clean.

What do you think? Should I go through the trouble of changing the head gasket or is there something else that I can do to determine the condition of the block?

Also, if it is a cracked block and the blocks are seldom salvagable should I try a cooling system sealant?

You could take an engine oil sample for analysis, this test will pick up on even trace amounts of coolant that may be in the oil. Many oil suppliers offer analysis programs these days & can supply you with a kit for submitting a sample for testing.

My experience has been it usually becomes visible in the radiator before it does in the oil. Rainbow colored swirls on top of the coolant.

Have you noticed any more than usual radiator coolant overflow? If a head gasket has started to leak into a coolant port, the extra pressure of compression leaking into the cooling system will cause excessive pressure to build in the cooling system creating an overflow condition. A fully blown head gasket into a coolant port will cause coolant to run from the overflow like opening a faucet.

If you are uncertain what the cause of the sweet smell is or if it isn't present at every start up; I'd say cautiously drive on for a more conclusive test in the short term, but pay VERY close attention to all these points of interest. I would also strongly recommend running an oil analysis. It takes very little coolant being introduced into the crankcase to bring about major issues with main & rod bearings, cam bearings, etc.

Block sealants, I have no faith in them really, have seen some minor incidents where they did work for a short while, but not in 230 engines. The most likely location of cracks in a 230 block is around the valve springs. The block mass is minimal in the area, lots of heat around the exhaust ports means much & frequent expansion & contraction issues, plus the mechanical action of the valve springs all happening in close proximatety. All this is why a successful repair chance is slim to none.

Keep checking, give us some updates.

[ton10291]

An oil analysis sounds like a very good idea. I'll check around this week to see where I can get that done. Since I run Rotella I'll start with Shell's 800 number and go from there.

Thanks again for the help.

[ton10291]

Well, I think that I slipped the noose this time!

As I was staring idly under the hood of my PW (to avoid the assignment of some domestic chore by Mrs P) I noticed a dark stain on the exhaust pipe near the manifold. Upon closer inspection I found that it was caused by coolant dripping off one of the exhaust manifold studs. At first I thought 'crap! Another problem!' but then it dawned on me that maybe this was the source of my maple syrup odor and exhaust smoke? Well, I ordered a new set of manifold studs from VPW and discovered upon removing the 2 studs nearest the cab that they had been replaced at one time and appeared to have been installed without sealant.

Long story short - I replaced the studs and the odor and smoke have gone away.

More evidence that God watches over fools and lost dogs.