Transfer case slips out of gear..

[Gordon Maney]

Great suggestion, then I can learn first hand.

You are doing fine. What does that mean? You are asking questions and getting answers and guiding your process. You will succeed. It is not as if you did some impetuous things, assembled hastily, took off down the road, and damaged parts. You are still in process.

No deflation occurring. Just learning.....

[Desoto61]

I hadn't thought of the old bearing race, that could be a great spacer, or at least with the cage and roller removed be easily turned down to be a spacer. Nice Idea!

I don't necessarily agree that the spacer has to be exactly the same thickness as the case, you're just trying to create the same loading on the bearing assembly as the case does. However there's not a lot of leeway either, too short and the nut/washer assembly won't push on the bearing stack properly. Too thick and you won't get good thread engagement on the nut.

Torquing to the specified rating will ensure that you have the proper compression on the bearing stack. Remember that rotational movement of the nut becomes vertical pressure on the stack. So the 1/4 or even 1/8th of a turn that you get torquing from 50 to 150 could translate into thousands of pounds of extra compressive force, which can mean additional movement.

If you do want to experiment put a dial indicator against the washer with the nut snug and then torque the nut to spec and see if you get any movement.

I used the impact gun to torque my top nut. I followed up with a torque wrench to verify I was above the recommended torque. That made it easy to install and remove the nut for future iterations. I also tried to make sure I torqued the nut to 150 and then far enough to allow me to install the cotter pin and then checked the end play and spin. I didn't actually install the pin but felt it better duplicated the installed conditions.

I had the same worries when I did mine, but as expensive as the rebuild is I'm doing this because I want the experience, knowledge, and satisfaction of doing it myself. If I messed up somewhere along the line and this thing fails then I'll be upset but I'll write it off as a learning experience (albeit an expensive one) and try again.

There are places I don't feel doing it myself is smart or worth the investment in special tools or equipment, but I think this is completely do-able. Charles point is that if you're not willing to take the time and do it properly then you're probably not going to get a good product, and he's right. With all the time and money you have invested, cutting corners to save a little time/money/frustration increases your chance of compromising the whole project, and as usual he's 100% correct.

[Jason Mills]

I hadn't thought of the old bearing race, that could be a great spacer, or at least with the cage and roller removed be easily turned down to be a spacer. Nice Idea!

I read about it in the Power Wagon Advertiser's DODGE SERVICE publication.

and I am also doing this for the learning experience.. as well as the satisfaction of (eventually) understanding how it all works, and why.

[Jason Mills]

You are doing fine. What does that mean? You are asking questions and getting answers and guiding your process. You will succeed. It is not as if you did some impetuous things, assembled hastily, took off down the road, and damaged parts. You are still in process.

4 Months later, the transfer case is assembled, painted, and awaiting installation. I explored Frank's suggestion of keeping notes about the bearing pre-load values based upon how tight the nut was adjusted.

What I found was that once the adjustment by way of shimming the bearing pre-load was correct, then the difference between having the nut on the end at 120 Lb/Ft and 150Lb/Ft made no difference. Having less than 100 Lb/Ft did lessen the bearing pre-load. Great suggestion Frank, as it also allowed me to have a greater understanding and thus confidence in the results.

[Gordon Maney]

Be sure to fill it with lube after you install it, but before you run it.

Don't ask me why I think of that.

[Jason Mills]

Be sure to fill it with lube after you install it, but before you run it.

Don't ask me why I think of that.

I all ready put oil in it.. and it is yet to be installed. I wanted to make SURE all the bearings got oil before they went to work..

[Frank Irons]

Getting back to the #1 post, you will have to let us know if you solved the problem after your education in transfer case rebuilding. I am glad that you worked your way through the rebuild and figured out how to it yourself. Where there is a will, there is a way!

Frank

[Jason Mills]

Getting back to the #1 post, you will have to let us know if you solved the problem after your education in transfer case rebuilding. I am glad that you worked your way through the rebuild and figured out how to it yourself. Where there is a will, there is a way!

Frank

Nope.. I have not solved the problem yet. The truck came out of the barn yesterday for the first time since putting it all back together, and it is still not right. That is to say that it jumps out of 4-low range. Actually the shifter never makes the sound/feel of engaging into the low range position.

Yet there is a positive side to this: I am now much more curious to discover what I overlooked, and make the correction.

[Jason Mills]

There is a positive side to this: I am now much more curious to discover what I overlooked, and make the correction.

Success.

In that I am still learning, which includes correcting mistakes.

The transfer case now works in 2 wheel, 4 wheel Hi and Lo range. My error was to install the hi-lo clutch gear in backwards.

Now to take this new found curiosity and confidence into the transmission, and see if I can leave it better than I found it.

I am appreciating everyones input and support by way of suggestions over the course of this repair.