Finishing System

[QuantumJo]

My workplace had some bobbins powdercoated- wasn't impressed as it chips right off. I'd ask around about epoxy or two-part urethane. Surface prep is really important- follow the paint maker's directions exactly, you'd be surprised how many people assume coatings are all the same- they most certainly are not! Charles at M37 Rebuild might have better insight on what holds up in the real world, depending on what you plan to do, and what sort of climate you'll be seeing.

I've become no fan of Power Coating as well. Epoxy sounds like the trick. You might also consider (if you can find it) placing a thin strip is UHMW between the leafs to help them slide and flex.

I'm in the same camp. once the powder coating chips, and it will chip, it will start to flake. I have had outstanding sucess with Chassis Saver. http://www.magnetpaints.com/underbody.asp
if it chips it can very quickly be fixed with some sand paper and a paint brush. Powder Coating is a much more difficult to repair. I used Chassis Saver on the front axle of my 2000 Cherokee Sport. It still looks great after years of Buffalo, NY salt laden winter roads. For me powder coat headers.... yes, frame and axles, no way.

Preparation is 99.9% of a job that will hold up well regardless of which finishing system you will be using.

In regards to knuckle housings or any other castings of this type that have been subjected to grease and oil for years, the oils that have impregnated the castings must be completely removed prior to coating. A good powder coater will clean, blast, and run the housing through the curing oven to cook out all remaining oil from the casting before he even thinks about applying any coating. Powder coating done right using quality materials and technique is the toughest, longest lasting coating for frame components and casting that we have found. The folks who talk about easy chip off and such; well you just have not experienced the use of powder coating done right. I know this because I went through 2 coating contractors before using the one we have used now for several years and have no plans of leaving. The first 2 were all about running the stuff through hurriedly and turning a quick buck and not at all concerned about taking the necessary steps to be assured of the best quality job.

It's hard these days to get contractors to spend the time to do it right; then you get the easy chip off of the finish and all sorts of other issues that have put a bad taste about powder coating in the mouths of some. Our first 2 contractors just wrote us off as too hard to please; but if better is possible, good just isn't enough around here. The one we use now appreciates our business and the fact that we want things done the best they can be. He says it compliments both our business and his. People have told him he must be good if he can please M Series Rebuild, and that it's proof positive to others that he is good at his trade because we continue to use him. It's been a win-win situation for both of us.

Don't be fooled about powder coating because you may have seen a job that came out wrong. You need to pay attention to how it is being done, and demand it be done right. There is also a huge difference in powder types; just like wet coating paint, there is the cheap stuff and the premium quality. If your contractor is using the cheapest powder he can acquire, there is no need for you to expect a top quality, long lasting job. The best powder along with the best technique of prep, application, curing, etc is what makes a quality job.

My experience with powder coating has been limited to products that I purchased that came powder coated. Coil springs, skid plates, rocker protection ect... for my 2000 XJ. In every instance the coating got chipped or scraped off by a large rock that I was traversing. No matter what process that was being used to prepare the part or the quality of the powder coat the rock won. This has a lot to do with my disposition toward powder coating.

If I scrape a section that has been painted, especially a part that is time consuming and difficult to remove, I can make a quick fix with a paint brush. Removing a skid plate or axle to be re-powder coated is just a pain in the tail.

Something like headers that I can pop off quick and requires little prep to be re-coated is the type of part I tend to get coated.

I was wondering if the thickness of the powder coat will affect clearance when reassembling? For example mounting a spring hanger to the frame or parts that move in the suspension like shackles.

[Gordon Maney]

My experience with powder coating has been limited to products that I purchased that came powder coated. Coil springs, skid plates, rocker protection ect... for my 2000 XJ. In every instance the coating got chipped or scraped off by a large rock that I was traversing. No matter what process that was being used to prepare the part or the quality of the powder coat the rock won. This has a lot to do with my disposition toward powder coating.

If I scrape a section that has been painted, especially a part that is time consuming and difficult to remove, I can make a quick fix with a paint brush. Removing a skid plate or axle to be re-powder coated is just a pain in the tail.

Something like headers that I can pop off quick and requires little prep to be re-coated is the type of part I tend to get coated.

I was wondering if the thickness of the powder coat will affect clearance when reassembling? For example mounting a spring hanger to the frame or parts that move in the suspension like shackles.

I believe any finish or coating with a substantial film thickness will do so.