Chassis save

[medic1241]

I picked this up at a local paint supply store. The total cost w/ sales tax was $111 and change. Now.... I'm just waiting to get it back from the blaster so I can start on it.

[Charles Talbert]

Use caution

Chassis Saver is designed to paint over rusty metal. If yours will be blasted back to bare metal, I'm not sure this will be the right product at all. These type products can actually cause rust to start and grow rapidly when used on clean metal.

[medic1241]

I figure that by the time I get to work on it.... It will have a coat of rust on it...

[medic1241]

I copied this information from the web site...

CHASSIS SAVER™ is a high solids, VOC compliant, single component chassis paint and underbody coating specially formulated to permanently stop automotive and truck corrosion without the use of primers or topcoats. Chassis Saver’s unique "RUST STOPPING" properties permit its application directly over tightly adhered rust after only marginal surface preparation using a wire brush and/or hand scraper to remove loose scale and rust particulate. Optimum results can be achieved by sandblasting a medium blast profile to surfaces. Chassis Saver bonds to blasted and rusty metal to form a rock hard yet flexible, glaze-like, non-porous finish that won’t crack, chip, flake or peel. It works by isolating metal from oxygen and moisture, and without these factors present... RUST STOPS – Dead in its tracks! Chassis Saver cures by reacting with atmospheric moisture and its cured film resembles that of a catalyzed finish yet no hardeners or activators are used. Chassis Saver is completely unaffected by road salt, gasoline, diesel fuel, oils, battery acids, hydraulic fluids, solvents, chemicals, or corrosives.

I can't wait to use it....

[DavidGB]

I know that early in this thread it was stated that Chassis Saver and POR 15 are entirely different products and I am not taking issue with that. I would like to note that there are similarities though. I have no experience with Chassis Saver but have used POR 15. I have found from my own experience that POR 15 did not prevent rust from occurring when used on completely cleaned steel. Particularly when used on steel that was cleaned of rust by means other than blasting. I will not discount the possibility that I didn't do something right when applying it. I have come to be of the opinion that POR 15 and similar products that are touted for use on rusty metal are best reserved for exactly that and that when painting totally clean steel something like the zinc rich epoxy primer mentioned is a better route. As always, proper surface prep seems to be a key to proper bonding. I have a frame that was not rusty to start with that was stripped to bare metal and painted with POR 15 in 2004. I have a number of sheet metal body parts that were stripped at the same time but these were primed with Dupont Variprime self-etching primer and sealed with Dupont nason 421-20 Primer-Surfacer. The latter parts look like they were done yesterday while the frame will have to be done all over again. All these have been stored inside albeit at shoreside locations.
I am most certainly no kind of expert, but having to redo that frame someday is the kind of learning the hard way I for one would prefer to avoid.
DavidGB

[medic1241]

Sounds like good advice...

[74w300uteline]

understanding chemistry

Ive always been drawn to the "how and why" aspect of how things work. easy one step, one size fits all, solutions never appeal to me. Iv'e decided to use ospho on chassis and plow frames . I feel comfortable understanding the conversion process of iron oxide. the formerly lightly rusted parts are nice and black now. according to the directions the next step is to cover with an oil based primer. thats where I'm getting lost. is red oxide primer considered an oil base primer? are all red oxide primers the same? I'm guessing the red oxide primer will give me another level of protection when the top coat of farm implement enamel gets chipped? am i on the right track? one of my biggest fears is that i will mix uncompatible ingredients and reduce the effectiveness of rust prevention rube goldberg scheme in my head


perhaps this is why one step products are popular.

[Charles Talbert]

I would do this. Go back to the ospho dealer and ask them to get more specific. Personally I like using epoxy primer as a bottom coat. It is tough and water proof when cured. I can't tell you though if it's compatible with what you have already used. If it is, that's what I'd use. Oil based primer isn't much when compared to other products of today.

[Bruce in BC]

All red oxide primer is not the same .

A good quality metal primer is what you are after , I tend to use epoxy and top coat from there . Urethane works quite well on chassis parts but then again there are a lot of different quality Urethane paints .

[Charles Talbert]

Depends on the quality of job you want. What we do is 2 coats expoxy, then 5 coats premium quality high build primer. Block sand that, then 3 coats premium urethane color and 3 coats urethane clear; or just paint if you are using single stage. I you aren't looking for a real high quality outcome and don't mind some imperfections showing through, you may want to skip the high build. Just depends on the outcome you are going after.

[KRB64]

The fall of 2010 I had to replace the rear springs and bed on my 880. With the bed off I sand blasted the very rusty frame. Just enough to get the flaky scale off but not down to bare metal. I then applied Eastwood's Rust Encapsulator.

This is a farm truck that sees lots of mud, sits outside, etc. So far so good. I also painted the flat bed with the same stuff and it still looks fine too.

I've used the POR 15 before and like this better.

My $0.02.

[El Muerto]

In Kenada..

My $.02 in the pot here..i hve used p.o.r. products and i have to say that i would not go that route again..its VERY toxic..i'd like to live to enjoy my builds..
I did a tester for a friend..i use a product here called zero-rust regularly..i did a 75 bronco for him..took the bare chassis and wire wheeled it down to tight rust light needle gunning and wire wheeling inside the rails. Degreased with ducasol. Pressurewashed..blown dry..washed with naptha in a chemical sprayer..ground everything/ wear respirator..NO SMOKING.
Then thinned zero rust black 40% with laquer thinner..blew on the first coat..dry to the touch in 10 mins..
Second and third coats thinned 15% laquer thinner. Heavy on the last coat but careful..no runs..

We blocked it up on my loading dock and left it in the weather/sun/snow/rain with no top coat for 2 years while he dragged his feet collecting parts for the rest of the build and paying me for welding.. no rust came back..not around the rivets..no bloom where the crossmembers met the rails.

Its not a 2k product so you will have to seal it with an epoxy if you wanted to topcoat with an isocyanide paint. I cant tollerate isocyanides anymore..my body wont take it so i dont do those kind of builds anymore. Even the offgassing makes me sick as a dog.
As a base for military paint its the shizna..ive sprayed it below zero ° with no noticeable difference in durabillity ..but dont tell anyone..the quick flash time is great for a quick cover up on a Kenadian day with scattered showers..blends seamlessly too. About a $100/gallon