Removing rivets

[Alxj64]

Since I am changing around the suspension some on the Carryall build, I am tasked with removing the factory rivets from the factory cast/forged spring hangars and rear motor mounts. Previously the original bellhousing/rear mounts were just torched flush with the frame. I am going to remove them entirely since I am having to build new front suspension mounts.

Anyone have a preferred method for removing the old rivets? Whats your prefered type of air-hammer once you cut the heads off?

[Ron in Indiana]

Having removed and replaced a cross member on my 59 PG I don't envy your coming task. As you know the rivets are swedged tight into the holes. I used my old Harbor Freight air hammer I've had for years. It's a long barrel type in which I used a pointed chisel to pin point the rivet and punch it out. Good luck and be sure to wear hearing protection, Stanley tools has an excellent set.

[Kevin in Ohio]

I did over 100 on mine as I tore it completely down and painted individually. What you have to remember, as Ron said, Rivets are used because they are squished into the slightly misaligned holes and make for a stronger fastener than a standard nut and bolt. Add that to some manufactures go to the trouble of stamping the holes in opposite directions on the 2 pieces so that they are kind of self locking when set right. Like opposing V's

What worked best for me was as follows.

Center punch the rivet( I use an automatic center punch with several cycles.}

Drill with about an 1/8" pilot hole NOT breaking through but as close as you can get. Basically till it's a little through the second piece of steel.

Step up drilling till you're close to the rivets body diameter(if you're still on center) I use a piece of tape on the drills to show the max depth.

Take a cold chisel and knock the head off. usually doesn't take much.

Put a punch in the hole and drive the rivet out. The drilling allows the side to cave in and come out a LOT easier from what I found.

I kept 3 drills there so I didn't have to change bits all the time. I was quicker for me this way with less damage.

[Gordon Maney]

I did over 100 on mine as I tore it completely down and painted individually. What you have to remember, as Ron said, Rivets are used because they are squished into the slightly misaligned holes and make for a stronger fastener than a standard nut and bolt. Add that to some manufactures go to the trouble of stamping the holes in opposite directions on the 2 pieces so that they are kind of self locking when set right. Like opposing V's

What worked best for me was as follows.

Center punch the rivet( I use an automatic center punch with several cycles.}

Drill with about an 1/8" pilot hole NOT breaking through but as close as you can get. Basically till it's a little through the second piece of steel.

Step up drilling till you're close to the rivets body diameter(if you're still on center) I use a piece of tape on the drills to show the max depth.

Take a cold chisel and knock the head off. usually doesn't take much.

Put a punch in the hole and drive the rivet out. The drilling allows the side to cave in and come out a LOT easier from what I found.

I kept 3 drills there so I didn't have to change bits all the time. I was quicker for me this way with less damage.

You really are an amazing guy.

[Ippy]

That frame looks great. I am probably going to do the same thing with the rot box MS truck I have. Did you re-rivet for re-assembly or use different fasteners?

Thanks,

Ippy

[Kevin in Ohio]

I turned up some heat treatable stainless and made "shouldered" bolts. The shoulder is the thickness of the pieces being joined together The original rivets hold better than any bolt of the same diameter. A bolt is only as strong as the smallest diameter of the thread. The threads can chew the frame as well if a lot of flexing is going on. The reason why is when the rivets are smashed they fill any misalignments and basically lock it all together. To overcome this I drilled all the holes up to 1/2" and rebolted as I drove each rivet out. After it was all done, painted and snuggly bolted, I reamed each hole to the overisized shoulder size, (.525) each bolt was then torque after they all were installed.

Techinically it is still not as strong as the paint is in between the joined halves and it could wear to the point of loosening up if flexed a lot. It's a tradeoff as I didn't want the rust issue so that is why I did what I did. For a working truck, I would do it differently.

I have redrilled popped factory rivets on work trucks before and used standard grade 5 hardware with no problems. Had rivets beside the bolt pop after but never had a bolt repair fail. Those bolts were NOT shouldered either.

[Ippy]

I appreciate the info. Did you have any alignment issues when bolting all of the pieces back together?

[Kevin in Ohio]

Used normal bolts which had some slop and loosely put them all in. Then snugged them all up. Pull one out and ream, install shouldered bolt to snug. After all were in I torqued them all. Whole truck was built to fix any alignment issues BEFORE the final paint was applied. Once it was all worked out I tore it all down for paint.

No alignment issues or surprises that way.

[crash600]

Shouldered Bolts

Hi Kevin, where did you get the shouldered bolts and what size were they?

[Kevin in Ohio]

Some were carriage bolts and others I just made.