Tweet
Originally posted by J Lebowski
View Post
-
I saw that article as well, and was considering it for my D60. My 60 has the dually hubs on it (76" wide). By reducing it 3" I could still run my Hummer wheels (7" backspace) and keep the psuedo "budd" look. This setup would put the center of the tires about 65" apart, which I belive is almost stock. Shortening the axle shouldn't be much of a problem either; cut 3" off the tube, order a new inner knuckle from Reid Racing (dedenbear) and order a new long inner shaft, and move the perch inwards... Seems almost too easy.... -
What magazine and issue was that, do you know?Originally posted by MasterYota View PostPower Wagon Advertiser monthly magazine, editor & publisher.
Why is it that the inside of old truck cabs smell so good?Comment
-
GM:
http://www.4wheeloffroad.com/index.html
It's in the Aug 2009 issue with a red JK Wrangler and yellow 70's Cherokee Chief on the cover. Page 69 and 70. Not as many pics as we'd like see. It's 454 powered.
MY:
Yes, cutting the long side tube down and Hummer rims was something I was thinking of also. That would retain the military look to the truck. The aluminum rims, diamond checker plate on the outside doors and dash, and the light grey bench seat in the article is not for me. Looking closer at the pics looks like his external roll cage is removeable, with pins at the attachment points.Comment
-
Yes, I belive the article did mention the front part of the exo was removable so that the hard top could go back on in the winter... Seems like a reasonable idea. The truck does "look" more like a beater wheeler, but that may be just from the angle of the pictures. I liked the rear roll cage setup. It could be hidden under a canvas top and look almost stock-ish.... The seat didn't do much for me either, but I'm sure its more comfortable! I did like the way he angled the gauages by fitting them into some exhaust tubing - reduces the glare and makes them easier to read.Comment
-
The PW hubs will fit on a D60 spindle with a bearing swap, you could use the d60 shafts with mod to the outer? I think at least.Comment
-
I was emailing to Ray at Helitool a few days ago, and he indicated that Gm Corporate 14 rear hubs fit the stock spindles with some machine work. This seem like a convenient way to change the bolt pattern at the wheels to me. Would be a simple matter to come up with a disc brake caliper holder too with out needing to change mountains of parts. He didn't go into great detail, but its worth checking out if someone has a couple spare spindles and hubs kicking around...Originally posted by TK064 View PostComment
-
Sorry guys, I got that backwards: apparently the M37 hub will fit the C14 spindle with a little machine work, for those looking to center the rear diff using a GM unit. It does lead me to think though that it might also swap the other way (with a little ingenuity) for those looking to change thier bolt pattern.Originally posted by MasterYota View PostComment
-
14 bolt
Originally posted by MasterYota View Post
If that could be done and still keep the Budd bolt pattern, it would be a huge improvement over the OEM. Way stronger than the WC centered rears, at a fraction of the price.Comment
-
Can you get the right gear ratios in the C14 to match the Dodge axles?Comment
-
Comment
-
Shortening the D60 housing . . .
"cut 3" off the tube, order a new inner knuckle from Reid Racing" - MasterYoda
Us Jeep CJ guys have done this for years using the D44 -little bro of the D60 on front ends. Cut the welds around the inner knuckle on the axle tube. The knuckle can now be reused after the now-scrap stub axle tube is pressed out of it. You don't need to order new knuckles. What is improtant is keeping the proper camber angle (knuckle rotation.) We usually leave the one knuckle on the housing undisturbed as a model to set the camber for the other side knuckle after it is pressed back on (Big deadblow hamer or steel hammer on wood - don't mar the knuckle's i.d.)
The welds just prevent the knuckle from spinning on the axle tube. The press fit into the knuckle carries the weight. As a result, do not try to cut corners and try to butt weld the knuckle to the cut axle housing tube.
Google Dana 44 swaps for Jeeps CJ/FSJ and early Broncos for details on it.Comment
-
My thoughts exactly - I just figure 200 bucks for a new knuckle is usually money well spent vs. the time to cut the inner "C" off in a civilized manner.Originally posted by Drew M. View Post
If you throw the "C" in the oven at about a 100*F for 20 mins or so it makes it much easier to put on the new end of the tube, as the steel expands in the heat, making the center hole fractionally larger. When it cools off it will shrink onto the tube and be every bit as tight as it originally was.Comment
-
Hey Bruce, any updates? I have an axle in pieces and I would definitely consider this upgrade.
TimComment
-
TK,
finally got it all apart last Sunday.the loud noise and the popping sound i had was the lockright. i set it up to tight and the high side of the side gear was getting caught on the high side of the lockright driver (left side).
when the tire would not slip while turning in two wheel drive the driver and side gear were forced to bypass and made a loud popping/crunch sound.
this prolly was my turning problem also i mentioned in a earlier post. the outer axle yoke only hit on the right side but not enough to be a problem.i will machine it (grind) before re-installation. Pieter should have sum pics up soon of the problem areas.
i will explain the pics now cause i may not have any internet access for a while, possibly as soon as tommarrow.so if i dont respond for a while that is why.
one pic shows the right outter yoke, i could not get a clear pic and there was a bad glare but the highlighted red area will need to be ground slightly.
the other pic shows the inside splines of the drive flange that broke off. both sides were exactly the same. when removing the flange one small piece of spline fell off,when wiping the grease out to see if any others were broke two more fell off, when tapping on the remaining splines two more came off.all were intact and not floating or bound up inbetween the axle and flange. a total of five on each side. all axle splines looked perfect and the side gear splines were perfect.
i dont think there is enough play for runout in the outter. see my early post on this to explain. the lockright will be fixed with correct side gear thrust shims. the axle yoke will be ground for clearance.
so that leaves the flange problem.i might try sum drive flanges that are resplined but not heat treated(the stk ones are not heat treated). that might allow the inner edge to expand and "trail clearance". not ideal but a option. i have sum 8 bolt dodge dana 60 drive flanges made from a very good hardned steel but my twelve bolt hub pattern would have to transferd. they are so hard that drilling is not a option with anything i own. i will see if i can have them machined possibly with a end mill without anealing to soften the suface(not cost effective but a option).also may end up like the first hardened flanges or wear out the axle bushings premature???
the drive flanges might have survived but at the IA i travel approx 24 road miles to and from the trails, plus the low speed trail miles Xs 7 days.i dont think there is enough runout on the outters for high speed(40-45 MPH) the only thing i can do is try one of the above and see what might work out or last the longest.Thanks for the intrest and i will try to keep this updated, BBComment
-
Pictures
here are the pictures in regards to Bruce's last comments.
Pieter
Comment
Comment