How much grease?

[Kaiser2boy]

How much grease can I pump into the front steering knunckle box before I can figure it is never going to fill up?
I pumped in one entire tube expecting some sign that it was full like a ball joint when it makes that popping sound and some oozes out around the boot.
I stopped because I know my luck. It is probably filling up the brake shoe area some how.
I have not mustered up the nerve to remove the brake drum yet.

[Joe Rokon]

There is a relief plug on the bottom that you take out when filling with grease.This lets the excess flow out.

[pwdave]

Kb, two weeks ago I did mine, took 1 &1/2 tubes per side. look on the bottom of the hub ball, you will find a set screw, remove it and pump away when the joint is full it will become obvious quickly. just as a note, I remove the zerk and put it in the bottom hole and put in grease until it comes out the top (no trapped air) the first time I did mine it took 2 tubes for each side (tired arm) good luck, Dave.

[W_A_Watson_II]

I remember the filling procedure was to put the grease in the bottom plug hole until it comes out the top zert hole. I could remember this wrong though.

[Charles Talbert]

Pull that plug before pumping

Pumping grease in through the bottom hole allows it to go directly into the knuckle cavity. Makes pumping much easier since you aren't forcing it through the bearing cone at the top until it is full. If the housing is completely empty, it takes 3 pounds to fill it, or approximately 3 tubes of grease per side. If you are just topping off, it may not take much at all, likely far less than 1 tube. If you don't remove the plug so you can tell when the knuckle housing is full, then you will force the grease into either the axle shaft tube toward the differential destroying the inner axle seal, or outward which will force it through the hub bearings and into the brake drum, destroying the hub seal. If you pumped a full tube with the plug not removed, I would suggest pulling the drum, you may very well have greased the brake linings.

[Kaiser2boy]

Thanks.
I tried looking in the book but all it says is what kind of grease, not how much.
I figured I better stop pumping and ask. Glad I did.

[Kaiser2boy]

Kb, two weeks ago I did mine, took 1 &1/2 tubes per side. look on the bottom of the hub ball, you will find a set screw, remove it and pump away when the joint is full it will become obvious quickly. just as a note, I remove the zerk and put it in the bottom hole and put in grease until it comes out the top (no trapped air) the first time I did mine it took 2 tubes for each side (tired arm) good luck, Dave.

I looked into relocating the zerk fitting , however on the bottom of the box there is a boss that looks like it could be drilled and tapped but was not. It is solid.
I thought maybe it was a cap screw that was packed with dirt so I cleaned it with a wire brush, no luck it is solid. An older model , newer model , or is it like my carb. just not done right? Both sides are the same . They have a boss there but no hole.

[Kevin Mienke]

The set screw is on the ball, not the lower bearing cover. I did mine exactly as Charles described and it took three full tubes.

[Charles Talbert]

I looked into relocating the zerk fitting , however on the bottom of the box there is a boss that looks like it could be drilled and tapped but was not. It is solid.
I thought maybe it was a cap screw that was packed with dirt so I cleaned it with a wire brush, no luck it is solid. An older model , newer model , or is it like my carb. just not done right? Both sides are the same . They have a boss there but no hole.

Actually it's a 1/8" NPT plug, slotted for removing with a screwdriver, not a set screw. I like to replace them with a hex head plug, easier installing and removal than with a screwdriver. The ball section is welded to each end of the axle tube, clean the bottom side of the ball section that is part of the axle tube and you should see the slotted plug, the knuckle housing fits over the ball. The plug is under the ball, it is not covered by and is not part of the knuckle housing at all; but is outside of the knuckle housing on the inboard side. There is no hole in the bottom knuckle housing bearing retainer, yours is no different than others.

[Kaiser2boy]

I pulled the wheels and drums off , it was not a hard job at all.( after I relized the driver side was left hand threads) All was well in there , if fact I was suprised to see it in such good shape , good linings , no groves,,,no grease.
I need to go now. My wife reminded me I have to put the new fancy knobs on her drawers in her bathroom.
It is a small price to pay for spending hours in the garage with Lady -M-.
There must be something in all that old oil and grease and OD paint that is adictive.

[Gordon Maney]

Actually it's a 1/8" NPT plug, slotted for removing with a screwdriver, not a set screw. I like to replace them with a hex head plug, easier installing and removal than with a screwdriver. The ball section is welded to each end of the axle tube, clean the bottom side of the ball section that is part of the axle tube and you should see the slotted plug, the knuckle housing fits over the ball. The plug is under the ball, it is not covered by and is not part of the knuckle housing at all; but is outside of the knuckle housing on the inboard side. There is no hole in the bottom knuckle housing bearing retainer, yours is no different than others.

Charles, were you meaning a hex head or a hex socket?

[Charles Talbert]

Charles, were you meaning a hex head or a hex socket?

Either is better than the slotted head original plug when it's time to remove a stubborn one. The least likely one to cause you a severe headache is the hex head type, you can simply remove and install it with a 6-point socket or box end wrench.