Wall eyed m37

[Kaiser2boy]

It looks like at some point someone replaced the tie rod end on the passenger side of my new toy.
The problem is thats all they did was stick it on.
If I set the front left wheel dead straight the right wheel is about two inches into a right hand turn.
Nothing looks bent or lose.
My question is , What is the tow in .
I tinkered with it and set it at around 3/16 closer in the front than the back. I measured from the front of the brake drum at 9 Oclock and at the rear at 3 oclock.
I looked all over this site and could find nothing.

[pwdave]

wall eyed

KB, I'll try one more time,(3rd) toe out instead of in. toed in will make the truck squirrelly. sounds like it's about right now, but oppisite. my 85 power ram toed out .490, sounds like a lot, but I looked at the book and the guy was right! 3/16 at the drum will be about right w/ the tires on. when it's movable still take it to the shop though. Dave.

[Charles Talbert]

It looks like at some point someone replaced the tie rod end on the passenger side of my new toy.
The problem is thats all they did was stick it on.
If I set the front left wheel dead straight the right wheel is about two inches into a right hand turn.
Nothing looks bent or lose.
My question is , What is the tow in .
I tinkered with it and set it at around 3/16 closer in the front than the back. I measured from the front of the brake drum at 9 Oclock and at the rear at 3 oclock.
I looked all over this site and could find nothing.

The toe-in should be in the 0 to 1/8" range for the M37, preferably 1/16" TOE-IN, the proper place to measure is the center of the tire tread at 9 and 3 o'clock. Once you get close as you already are at 3/16", notice the rod end on the right side has fine threads. Do your final adjustment by turning the rod end on the right. 1 turn will be much less movement because of the fine threads.

[Kaiser2boy]

OK. thanks guys.
This truck looks like some one started to restore it and gave up.
It has quite a few new parts that have been installed but just that. It has a new wireing harness and lights front and back , new shocks,,,installed wrong. A rebuilt carb with wrong gasket at bottom , no vacuum port. New brakes with the lower cams left set with the arrows facing inward. New master cylinder with the fording vent not conected, new fording valve on carb with cable backwards so it is open when it should be closed. The list goes on.
It just adds to the fun.

[Charles Talbert]

OK. thanks guys.
This truck looks like some one started to restore it and gave up.
It has quite a few new parts that have been installed but just that. It has a new wireing harness and lights front and back , new shocks,,,installed wrong. A rebuilt carb with wrong gasket at bottom , no vacuum port. New brakes with the lower cams left set with the arrows facing inward. New master cylinder with the fording vent not conected, new fording valve on carb with cable backwards so it is open when it should be closed. The list goes on.
It just adds to the fun.

You are doing the smart thing by checking behind the previous owner's work. We find issues such as you speak of all the time, probably we find more installation and adjustment errors as the root causes of issues than bad components. I've never understood that some folks think you just stick it on and that's all it takes. Proper installation and adjustment is 99% of the job.

[Kaiser2boy]

Just a follow up. I rigged up some electrical conduit using some 3/4 and some 1/2 inch tubes with a butt conector and some elbows to make a gauge.
The 1/2 inch slides into the 3/4 and the butt conector served as a lock. Sticking an elbow on each end and a small section out of each elbow it worked well as a gauge to check the tow in/ out.
At first it was sitting with the front very wide. Tread center to tread center on the front was over 2 inches wider that the back.
I tinkered it down to about 1/8 tow in. It takes much less effort to steer now.