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  • Speedometer cable ?

    I picked up a new speedo cable and after finally managing to get it installed It did not work.
    The top end is no problem as the dash panel is easy to get at.
    The hook up at the trans is a bit more involved in that you need to be double jointed to get it in.
    Anyway the end that fits the trans end seems to not "lock in" it just spins as if the inside of the drive is round and not square. I removed the cable from the outer shield and slid it into the output end of the drive to see is maybe it just needs to go in farther but it still just spun around. Is the out put of the drive a different size than the end that fits on the speedometer?
    I got a mirror and tried to look down in to the drive and could only see what looked like a round fitting about 3/8ths of an inch in diam. with an approx 1/8th inch hole in it where the cable slid into.That 3/8ths section is inside the threaded part where the cable sleeve screws on. I can not see any square section. Note , I could not see very good at all due to the situation.
    My question is , Should there be some sort of thing between the 3/8 thing with the round hole and the cable so it wont just flop around ?
    Or is the speedo drive broken.

  • #2
    Perhaps there is a piece of your old cable broken off inside the transmission.

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    • #3
      The drive gear in the transfer case accepts a .152" drive tang, attached to the end of the cable core wire.

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      • #4
        Thank you Charles . I checked the cable and it has a .105" end.

        It still may have a broken off stub in there also so I guess I need to take it off and look at it.
        I felt around inside with a small screw driver to see if I could pick up on anything square in there with no luck..

        My next quest will be to find a truck service place that will work on split rim wheels...
        Do you know if that can be done by a back yard mechanic.
        I know there is a lot of danger with split rims in that they can fly off at great speeds if not restrained.

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        • #5
          Originally posted by Kaiser2boy View Post
          Thank you Charles . I checked the cable and it has a .105" end.

          It still may have a broken off stub in there also so I guess I need to take it off and look at it.
          I felt around inside with a small screw driver to see if I could pick up on anything square in there with no luck..

          My next quest will be to find a truck service place that will work on split rim wheels...
          Do you know if that can be done by a back yard mechanic.
          I know there is a lot of danger with split rims in that they can fly off at great speeds if not restrained.
          There is no typical part# that is a .105". What you likely have is a .104" square, this is typically used on the civilian power wagons. The drive used on the M37 T/case will not accept a square drive end. The .152" tang drive is only on the M37. There is a slot in the drive shaft to accomadate the tang. The upper end of the speedo cable is a .104" square, this is typical to most speedometers, even current day mechanical ones.

          Rims on the M37 are not split rims, those have been outlawed and obsolete for many years. They were never used on M37's. The BUDD rims typical to M37's are a split lock ring design. With the correct tooling and know how, they are relatively easy to work with. Using proper precautions, they are safe. Always do a THOROUGH inspection to be sure that both the rim or lock ring is in good condition and not damaged in any way. Complete safety instructions can be down loaded online I'm sure.

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          • #6
            Hello Charles,
            I see your last post. The funny thing is that today I removed the speedo output drive to look at it and found just as you described. I have in my garage a nice set of tools and one of the tools is an old South Bend shop lathe with a milling adapter from 1934. It works fine. I am going to try and fab a fitting for this cable. The worst that can happen is it wont work.
            If that happens I will break down and buy the right one.
            As with the problem I had with the crab rebuild the person that I ordered the part from swore it was the exact one I need.
            Well it is close, but we all know where being close counts.

            The wheels , they can wait a while until I get more info.

            Thanks again
            Alan in North Central Pa.

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            • #7
              Egads, I checked around to see if there is an adapter tang to fit the drive and the .104 cable. There are hundreds of adapters out there. All I need now is to find the right one. So far no luck.
              Also there are 90 degree adapters. I look up at where the cable hooks to the drive and I see it might be a good idea as the cable needs to make a sharp turn right out of the drive connector.
              If all fails I will end up Rube Goldberging it.

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              • #8
                A couple simple ideas . . .

                If you still have you original cable core?
                #1 Repair it. Mine snapped. I MIG welded the cable and lubed the housing so it had less resistance when spinning. No problems in the years since the repair.
                #2 Cut off the original end and weld it to the replacement smaller core t/c end.

                If not?
                #1 Weld up the new t/c speedo drive cable end and file/mill it down to the proper specs keeping the square end centered along the cable centerline.

                I'm not too far from you if this is beyond your tools/skills. Just bring it over/mail it. It will cost you a 6-pack of Yuengling:)

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                • #9
                  Thanks Drew, unfourtunatly I do not have the original cable. The entire cable assy was missing. A friend up here gave me a plastic adapter of the proper diam. with a tang on it but it was made to mate to a larger drive cable and it is about 2 inches in over all length so it wont work. It however gives me the confiuration of the tang I need. I have an old South Bend shop lathe that works just fine so I am going to try to mill one out and drill the end and cut off my cable and epoxy it into the home made tang. I also have a wire welder but hesitate welding anything that needs to flex.
                  As far as you not being too far, you are just about 135 miles South as the crow flys. Thanks for the offer , its good to know there are still people out there that will help.
                  I know I can order a cable that will fit but being a cheap SOB and a do-it-your-selfer it has become a chalenge to make the cable I bought work.
                  What ticks me a bit is the place I ordered it from swore up and down it was the exact cable I needed.
                  I would have probably been done with it by now but the garage is not heated and it is 12 degrees out there and Harrisburg is draging there feet with my title and plate so it aint going any place for a while.

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                  • #10
                    Ahh . . . we are a bit alike. #1 I have a 1890's Ames Manufacturing 6' metal lathe (1200lbs or so) - normally the company stuck to making shovels. I have the babbit - just need to pour 1 new bearing, find drip oilers, and align the headstock to the bed. #2 PENNDOT issues - I bought my truck from a guy in NJ years before I went to register it. They wanted me to bring the prior owner back to PA to a notary to resign the transfer paperwork. I asked if this procedure would apply if I bought the truck from a guy in Alaska - they said no, b/c it was unreasonable to fly the guy down. After a bit - they agreed it was unreasonable to track down the NJ guy to bring him to PA and issued my title. I then had a bit of fun seriously discussing the registration requirements to pull a M37a1 anti-tank gun (37mm) with my army truck. It went something like this:
                    Q: Weight?
                    Me; ~1000lbs
                    Q: What type of brakes?
                    Me: Parking brake only.
                    Q: What is the carrying capacity for the trailer?
                    Me: None.
                    Q: Huh?
                    Me: It does not carry anything. It generally fires anti-tank rounds to destroy tanks and other armored vehicles.
                    Q: Does it haul the bullets on it?
                    Me: No, that is what the Dodge Weapons Carrier truck was for.
                    Q: Well, it still needs to be licensed and inspected.
                    Me: Based on what regulation?
                    Q: Let me check . . .
                    Me: [they couldn't find any - b/c it does not require it. Just like hauling a cement mixer unit. It tied up at least 4 staffers for 15 minutes looking. I'd say we broke even for wasting each other's time that day. :)]

                    Oh, if trying to get you military surplus vehicle titled in PA with a Form 97 - I strongly suggest mentioning to PENNDOT that the US Govt is a vehicle dealer should that question arise. Otherwise, get ready for a major hassle titling the vehicle.

                    BTW: there is a speedo shop near me (Lancaster) that can mate almost any cable to t/c for ~$70 - incl using 90 degree adapters to make your install easier. They do like to have the parts brought to them when making custom adapters so you may need a road trip with your t/c and speedo cable assembly. Then again, maybe not with careful measurements. Good luck.
                    http://www.powls-speedometer.com/

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                    • #11
                      Ha, you make me feel like I have a new lathe, mine is only from 1947. There is a little end play in the compound but only about .010 in.
                      As far as registration and insurance, I had a bit of a time with my insurance Co. Grundy.
                      They sent me three set of papers to fill out about all the things I cant do with the truck. The sets of papers came about every other week. The last set came and I read it and found one word in it that I had to swear not to do. Now I am not 12 years old and I am also not the brightest bulb on the tree but I am not totally stupid. Anyway it wanted me to swear that I would not use the truck in ( not sure of spelling here ) a GYMKANAE or some such thing.
                      I called Grundys and asked the woman just what is a Gymkanea ? I was reading it from the form at the time. She paused for a few seconds and said ,,,a what ? I repeated the question. She said she had no idea , where did I see that word. I told her I got it from YOU!!.
                      She says ,,hold on one second sir. ....a few minutes later she gets back on and say it is a sort of demolition derby.
                      I said , do you think for one second that I would buy an antique truck , spend a ton of money and time on it and then crash it up on purpose? She timidly say ,,,no.
                      I signed it and sent it back. But between the time I first called them and the time I finally got an insurance card it was 6 weeks. Now I am waiting on Harrisburg, maybe by spring I can drive it without looking over my shoulder.
                      Dripp oilers ,,ebay. Pouring bearings,,good luck.

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                      • #12
                        Jumpin Joe Smith, I must be in a Twilight Zone episode.
                        I sent in my 4 glossy photos and my check and the old title to Harrisburg on Monday afternoon and today my antique registration plates and paperwork showed up in my mail box...its unheard of.

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