New Brake Lines Questions

[Wulfman]

SO I've got Ray's Disc Brakes and the Chevy MC installed and now it's time to run the brake lines. At Napa, the Armored line (5/16 or 1/4) come in lengths of 10, 20, 30, 40 51 and 60. Coupla questions.
Does anyone know the Qty. of each length to make the fixed lengths work?
Is it better to buy a spool (where) and cut/flare myself?
What did you use for the flex lines to both front and rear?
Does it matter if use 5/16th or 1/4?
Lastly, what about the brake light switch. Does anyone have a model # they used?

Thanks in advance guys. Hoping to have on the road this spring early summer.

[W_A_Watson_II]

I bought the fixed lengths based on some rough measurements. Don't remember the qty of each though. Just take some measurements for each of the points and buy a few extra as you will make a mistake or two, and take back what you don't use or want to keep on hand.

[Wulfman]

Thanks Will

The picture is worth a thousand words. Obviously not a stock gas tank. What did you pull that out of?

[W_A_Watson_II]

Your Welcome, both trucks were piped with 1/4" lines bought from NAPA. That is in my 46 Power Wagon, it's a new MTS Plastic Bronco 33 gallon fuel tank. Here is a picture of My M's rear brake line work:

[Desoto61]

I like the coils as they can be cut to length to reduce the number of fittings and give a more custom look, but I'll admit that I always have at least one flare that leaks and has to be re-done. A problem I've never had with pre-flared piping. It's also hard to find the armor spring separately.

I did buy one of those fancy Eastwood flaring tools lately, so that should help eliminate bad flares, but my real reason was so I can do my PW with stainless line. That stuff is too hard to flare with the regular tools.

As for the frame to axle line, Ray's site gives a part number (BRK SP4520) that can be used. Look at about 3/4 of the way down the page, he shows a picture.

[Wulfman]

Thanks Guys

Appreciate the pix, which are always worth a thousand words.

[Doc Dave]

[QUOTE=Desoto61;76889]
I did buy one of those fancy Eastwood flaring tools lately, so that should help eliminate bad flares, but my real reason was so I can do my PW with stainless line. That stuff is too hard to flare with the regular tools.

Hi Desoto. I also saw the fancy flaring tool in the Eastwood catalog. Please let us here know how well it works. Anything that improves the % of good hand made flares to me is an improvement. Making flares is a pain I think.
One other material option is the Kunifer (nickel copper alloy) tubing. More flexible than steel, rust resistant and easier to work with. I used it on part of my truck and it is nice to work with especially if you have to bend it a lot.
They have a website, and even offer to loan you a professional flaring tool to use if you buy some.
http://www.fedhillusa.com/

[Desoto61]

I played around with it after I got it and it does work really well. Not only will it flare stainless but it's so easy to flare with compared to the hand held versions you get spoiled. All the bits are maintained in the little head assembly and the nice long handle gives you plenty of leverage for the harder stainless.

I think the only downside is that it's meant to be clamped into a vice, so all your flares will have to be done with the tubing off the vehicle, which in certain situations may be cumbersome.

My neighbor uses the alloy lines and really likes them. They use that alloy all over the Navy ship's for sea water piping because it holds up so well. I may consider it when I'm ready, though I already have some stainless tubing from the disk brake conversion on the Desoto. I couldn't flare it with the hand tools and ended up using regular tubing.

Even with the tool the other problem with stainless being so hard is that you can have a hard time getting a good seal in your fittings. I've seen little copper washers that fix that, but it's another point for the alloy lines.

Of course the other side of the equation is the tube nuts. Even with regular tube I tend to use stainless nuts. I'd also like to find some stainless armor spring to use on the axle lines.