Am I asking too much of her?

[Kaiser2boy]

Maybe I am asking the truck to do more than it can. I know my memory is fading but when I drove my M37 in the army back in 64 it seemed to have more pep.
I know the one I picked up a few months ago is like me now , getting older and a bit slower.
However let me ask a question.

On a flat road how long should it take Ol 37 to get from 30 MPH to 45 MPH?
I have given up seeing if it would do 50 MPH.

Before anyone says "your govorner is set to low" , its not.
The engine will pull strong in 1st , 2nd, 3rd gear right up to the recomended top speed for that gear.
Once in 4th it is so flat it aint funny.
In fourth while rolling at 30 or 35 if I step down on the gas the carb makes a sound like a low note on a pipe organ and ever so slowly starts to speed up.
Any kind of hill seems like it is too much for it in 4th.
I have checked and re checked the float leverl. I even went higher than recomended.
Cleaned out all the passages with compressed air , checked for vacuum leaks ect.
Like I said , the truck pulls well in all gears but 4th then it takes a nap.
Any ideas?

[712edf]

Just curious, have you checked what kind of manifold vacuum & cylinder compression its got? Also ignition timing. How an engine runs in direct drive is the best indicator of the engine's condition. The lower gears mask problems (torque is sorta multiplied) that show up in high gear. OD trans make it even worse.

Also carb problems seem to intensify in higher gears as well.

Bucky

[Gsmith]

Have you checked the point gap? It should be set at .020 I believe. Also the timing could be a bit retarded, that would make it weak under a load. I know you went through the timing with Charles in another post but it wouldn't hurt to try advancing it a couple of degrees and see if it makes any difference.

[Charles Talbert]

Compression test, a good idea

If you have been through the governor set up procedure and are SURE you have that correctly adjusted, and the timing is set at 4* BTDC, I think I would do a compression test to check out the overall condition. If the #'s are low, you will never get any power out of it short of doing an overhaul. To get the power it should offer, the compression readings would have to be 115 PSI or higher. Not trying to pop your bubble, but many folks think their engine is just fine and put off doing the test until they spend hundreds and exhaust all options to no successful end. Many times they are very surprised when readings of 100 or less are the result. This is the reason I always suggest doing the test on an engine even if you think the suggestion is rediculous. The thing is, this test will present the best picture you can get concerning the overall condition of your engine without tearing it down, it only takes a few minutes and will give a super good analysis of piston ring/cylinder wall wear condition and also the valve train condition. If you get #'s under 110 PSI, you are getting close, 100 PSI is very border line, under 100 PSI, hopeless condition, make plans for a rebuild as no amount of adjusting or accessory component rebuilding will help the cause.

[Kaiser2boy]

I know it is a bit Freudian but I have put off testing the compression hoping I could find an easy way out.

I will test it and get back with the reults.

[Kaiser2boy]

Compression low, even but loooow.

I dripped in a bit of 30 wt oil and tried again and it was up indicating its rings.
What a set back. I hate to even think about pulling out the engine and trying to find a shop that will work on it and then the cost.
I may just live with it the way it is.

[Charles Talbert]

Compression low, even but loooow.

I dripped in a bit of 30 wt oil and tried again and it was up indicating its rings.
What a set back. I hate to even think about pulling out the engine and trying to find a shop that will work on it and then the cost.
I may just live with it the way it is.

I would have almost bet on that result, just how low was it? The fact that it was even and low all the way across is a very good indication that the cause is ring/cylinder wall wear.

[scottyg]

Been awhile. Is the compression test done hot or cold?

Thanks,

Scottyg

[Kaiser2boy]

I would have almost bet on that result, just how low was it? The fact that it was even and low all the way across is a very good indication that the cause is ring/cylinder wall wear.

It was 90 psi.+/- . I ran the test on a cold engine. The temp in the garage was about 35 dgrees at the time due to a "warm up" we had up here.
It is amazing that it runs as good as it does.
No smoke , no uneven firing, it starts well hot or cold, its just weak.

Now ya got me thinking " can I pull a Gypsy job and drop the pan and pop the head and run a ridge reamer around it and push the pistons out and deglaze the walls and stick new rings in it if the walls and pistons are not a mess.? How crumby is that ?
I live in a very rural part of Pa. There is not a service station on each corner up here . It would involve me having to get the truck some place and pay them to yank the engine ect.
1st thing is I dont know any place that works on old stuff , 2nd no matter who I find it will be very expensive. My garage is big and I have tools but I have no way to pull the engine.
I know its wrong but I look at it this way , it dont work now, If I throw a set of rings in it whats the worst that can happen. Even if it helps a little it will be better.
This is of course unless I botch it up and break somthing.
I am thinking of running it for a while to see if I can live with it. Like I said , it runs OK its just on the weak side.
Maybe I will change my screen name to Gyspy Al.

[Kaiser2boy]

Been awhile. Is the compression test done hot or cold?

Thanks,

Scottyg

Im sure you ment this question for Charles but I ran the test on a cold engine. The way I am thinking if its that low, it aint gonna make much difference if shes a bit warm or not. I am sure it will be up if the engine is hot because the parts grow a bit when hot.
Its kind of like a woman, if she dont like ya , she dont like ya. Trying to warm her up aint gonna make much difference.

[Charles Talbert]

It was 90 psi.+/- . I ran the test on a cold engine. The temp in the garage was about 35 dgrees at the time due to a "warm up" we had up here.
It is amazing that it runs as good as it does.
No smoke , no uneven firing, it starts well hot or cold, its just weak.

Now ya got me thinking " can I pull a Gypsy job and drop the pan and pop the head and run a ridge reamer around it and push the pistons out and deglaze the walls and stick new rings in it if the walls and pistons are not a mess.? How crumby is that ?
I live in a very rural part of Pa. There is not a service station on each corner up here . It would involve me having to get the truck some place and pay them to yank the engine ect.
1st thing is I dont know any place that works on old stuff , 2nd no matter who I find it will be very expensive. My garage is big and I have tools but I have no way to pull the engine.
I know its wrong but I look at it this way , it dont work now, If I throw a set of rings in it whats the worst that can happen. Even if it helps a little it will be better.
This is of course unless I botch it up and break somthing.
I am thinking of running it for a while to see if I can live with it. Like I said , it runs OK its just on the weak side.
Maybe I will change my screen name to Gyspy Al.

90 PSI just won't get it, as you already have seen the result. You are getting close to having some skipping, etc going on. If you have tools and space, invest in a small engine crane is your best option. Honing and ringing is a total waste, most likely the cylinders are out of round somewhat, honing will not correct that. To be honest, face the music and do a proper rebuild is the only way. That's not what you want to hear, but it is the fact.

[Charles Talbert]

Been awhile. Is the compression test done hot or cold?

Thanks,

Scottyg

Do the test at room temp in your garage.

[712edf]

I am with Mr. Talbert. If you are going to put the effort required to break-down the motor for rings, may as well do it correctly (complete overhaul).

Luckily it is currently driveable, so this isn't something you have to jump on tonight & finish by Friday. Take the time to round up all that you need & plan on tackling this in the warmer summer months when it's not dark at 5:30pm. If originally isn't an issue (matching numbers), maybe an engine swap would be easier, replacing the motor with a remanufactured one.

Bucky

[Kaiser2boy]

I don't know if any of you guys are maried or not , but my wife sees this thing as a toy for me. Well I guess she is right.
Anyway if I spend $500 bucks on it she figures I should spend $500. on something for her also.
Kicking in several thousand for another engine would be a very expensive deal indeed.
The new tires cost me a new kitchen stove. I cant imagine what she would want if I spend 4 or 5 K on a motor. Plus dumping that kind of money on the truck starts heading to the point of diminishing return.

[scottyg]

Thanks for the response everyone!

Scott