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A little m37 humor ?

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  • A little m37 humor ?

    Looking in to tearing down the engine I figured I would do as much homework as I could.
    I saw in a post on this fourm that a fellow was a bit puzeled over setting the valves while the engine is running as the book tells you to do. It may be a test of your ability but it can be done.
    Looking at TM-9-808 it spells out the order to tighten the head bolts after a tear down.
    It says to do it on a warmed up engine. Now that to me is a real trick. How do you do that , set it on a hot plate for a while first? Maybe If I am real fast I could run it for a while , quick tear it down and do all the work and quick get back together before it cools. It sounds like the chicken and the egg riddle.

  • #2
    Originally posted by Kaiser2boy View Post
    Looking in to tearing down the engine I figured I would do as much homework as I could.
    I saw in a post on this fourm that a fellow was a bit puzeled over setting the valves while the engine is running as the book tells you to do. It may be a test of your ability but it can be done.
    Looking at TM-9-808 it spells out the order to tighten the head bolts after a tear down.
    It says to do it on a warmed up engine. Now that to me is a real trick. How do you do that , set it on a hot plate for a while first? Maybe If I am real fast I could run it for a while , quick tear it down and do all the work and quick get back together before it cools. It sounds like the chicken and the egg riddle.
    Cold set valve procedures exist and are much more accurate than the hand smoker method.

    Head bolt torque; torque intially to 65 ft.lbs., Upon completion of engine run in, recheck the torque, adjusting as needed until the 65 ft.lb. torque is held. Many head gaskets of today, (better materials than 60 year old ones) actually don't require a retorque, we usually double check them just to be sure anyway.

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    • #3
      Originally posted by Charles Talbert View Post
      Cold set valve procedures exist and are much more accurate than the hand smoker method.

      Head bolt torque; torque intially to 65 ft.lbs., Upon completion of engine run in, recheck the torque, adjusting as needed until the 65 ft.lb. torque is held. Many head gaskets of today, (better materials than 60 year old ones) actually don't require a retorque, we usually double check them just to be sure anyway.
      Hand Smoker , very good.
      The re torque of head bolts after a short breakin period is understood.
      But is just funny how the TM worded it. There is no mention of re torque just the statment to tighten them while warm. I guess if you read any TM you will find such slips.
      Not to beat a dead horse but when I was still working one of the two story tall monsters I had to work on was made in Germany. They came with detailed instructions. The problem was someone translated it from German to english,,,sort of.
      One item required you to rewire one of the controls to run a test. It told you to remove the (s) wire and conect it to terminal (e) .
      Sounds easy until you see that the wires are colored not lettered. And the terminals were numbered. The -s- was for SCHWARZ, BLACK in English and the-e- was for EIN, one in English. There is a reason men dont read instructions, some times they can drive you crazy.

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